Timing should advance quite a bit in just cruising conditions. I'll get 20+* of timing cruising sometimes.I doubt it's the knock sensor, BUT-Just for testing purposes you can take the knock sensor out of the equation. Take it out (of the block, leave it plugged in), take a piece of...

Coolant temp sensor is reading -74f according to logger.Gauge on the dash is not working either.Both are hooked up.Any tips? I've done my best to check for breaks / shorts in the wire, don't see any.Do these have a common ground that they need in order to function?Both were...

Basically no if's / and's or but's about it- Head gasket, correct?Was a halfhearted leak down test, just took a compression tester with a quick connect and 150psi into each cylinder at TDC. All were fine except #1 which immediately pressurized the coolant system.Just double checking...

If ignition timing is too far advanced for the gas you're running, at some point, no matter the A/F, you WILL have detonation aka knock, right?

Currently no wideband. I'm really only wanting 13's out of this car- I'd prefer to not purchase one right now.I can post some logs later this evening.http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/tuning-engine-management/286426-help-settings-after-2g-maf-1g.htmlSounds very familliar.

Actually last night the AFC was installed and functioning- We made many pulls, but could NEVER get the knock to go away. Tried almost everything from -10% to +30%. +25% or so seemed to be the sweet spot, we were only getting 43counts of knock every third pull. =/I didn't mention the AFC...

90 Laser, 2g pistons, 2g maf, Walbro 255, Aero AFPR, SAFC (I currently have it, but it's not installed... Don't think it will do me any good.).edit: I also have 550cc's.No boost leaks.Base timing set to 5*, shows ~8* ungrounded.New knock sensor, with teflon tape, torqued to around 7...

ok so if I tried that and I failed to get a rpm reading on the afc then I must have had a defective unit... I sold this car to a friend a week ago and we are resuming the project so I'm trying to address this problem before we get back to it. We ordered an old school afc-II so I hope it works.

5 years later... lol. So where should I tap into on a 90 car for rpm signal for S-AFC?

I'm running the 2g MAF on my 1G with precision 550 injectors and stock ECU, no S-AFC. Runs good and strong at all RPMs. If anything I'd say it may be running a little rich, but I have no way to prove that other than my opinion. My mbc blew up on me so I'm running straight wastegate now at...

Suggestions?

ok. I just got through tapping directly into the black wire coming from the CAS and splicing it into the green wire on the s-afc neo. I just ran the wire through the passenger window for testing purposes.. I get absolutely no rpm reading at all. Not even a twich. The factory tach is working...

What? What gave you the idea I don't want the help? I was just telling you what colors the wires were by memory bc I'm at work away from the car.

The color of the wire for 109 is blue if I'm not mistaken. I'm still at work or I'd look. Pretty sure it's blue though.

Yes the stock tach works fine. I know for sure I tapped into an all white, an all blue, and an all yellow. I was attempting to tap into the black wire directly from the CAS last night and broke the wires coming out of the bottom of my old 90 CAS. I guess now I'll try and put my blacktop CAS...

I have a 1990 model and I'm trying to get my S-afc NEO to read rpms. It is currently connected to the 109 wire on the ecu and I'm not getting ANY rpm readings. What could be wrong?

did you ever figure this out? i have a 90 laser w/ afc neo and i cant get it to read rpms at ALL. What pin did you tap for the rpm signal on your afc?

I'm still having this same problem.. I need to know if the AFC Neo is looking for an rpm signal that the 90 ignition system doesnt provide. I know the 90s are different than the rest of the 1g's. Have any of you installed a s-afc II or neo on a 90? Do I need some kind of signal translator...

So if I own a 90 and I want to install a shift light.. which wire and where do I tap into?

Steve, how is the 90 different from the rest concerning the tach signal?

Ok looking at the vfaq 1g ecu pinout diagram... I have hooked the green afc rpm wire to the following wires:21,16,54,56, and 109 (I believe 109 is the same white wire as on the coil)I haven't gotten the rpm gauge on the afc to move at all. I have tried changing num of cyls to every...

So is that the only way i can get an rpm signal is wiring into the coil? Ive tried 4 different wires on the ecu harness and cant get it to read anything at all. 4th wire from the left, 4th from right, and even 2 others on the middle plug. I'm so frustrated.

I know I'm not supposed to bump but I really need help on this guys please?

Same experience here. I had bucking and jerking and just plain unsmooth part throttle acceleration until I switched from 1G to 2G MAS and it was like nite and day. Runs way better now. I recomend everyone with a 1G to upgrade to 2G MAS.

I have this same exact problem on my 90. I am using the afc neo. I tried two different wires on the ecu because it shows different on vfaq than it does on the afc instructions. Neither wire will work. I have datalogger also and have no problem getting an rpm reading from there but thats the...

What if I ran the green wire from the afc and tapped into one of the wires on the power transistor? Anyone know which wire would work?

I have read the vfaq and the wiring diagram that comes with the neo. They point to two entirely different wires for the rpm wire. I have tried both wires and can not get the neo to display rpms. It just stays at zero. I have tried changing number of cylinders and all that. No luck. My car...

Yes the sensor you speak of is the one I replaced. I didn't know there was a reading on the logger that I could look at the actual temperature. I will check that and see if I'm gettin close to that temp. Just a what-if... if the temp sensor is reading over the 164* range and I know I have a...

update on the fuel trims.. i reset the ecu.. now my low fuel trim is going down to like 81.2% and it hardly moves at all. Is the low trim supposed to jump around pretty quickly or is it very slow? 81.2% = extremely lean?

Readings? If you are talking about the temp guage it sits in the middle once warmed up. Is there another reading I should check? Also, I just took it out for another test run.. I disabled the wastegate and my car wont boost past 10 psi. I thought my mbc was broken so that's why I unhooked the...

update: my problem was a broken injector.. replaced with 550s and upgraded 1G mas to a 2G mas and my problem is fixed.

Ok I replaced the O2 sensor and the coolant temp sensor and my car is still stuck in open loop (voltage doesnt cycle at idle or at part throttle). This started after I installed the AFC.. also I can't get the afc to show my rpms and I've tried two different wires for the rpm wire. Don't know...

Ok after my last post I installed the dejon intake with the 2G MAF and reset my ECU. BIG improvement. Although the exhaust still smells rich, I get lots less knock and my fuel trims move now. Although my O2 does not cycle at idle.. it sits at like .03v and does not cycle even at part...

tsi.. did you ever figure out what was causing the light to blink erradically on the timing light? Was it the power transistor or the coil or both? I have the same problem.

Would the overrun cause my fuel trims to stay at 100% exactly or will mmcd even show a number higher than 100? It doesn't move from 100.. all 3 trims.

I just installed 550's, 255lph, s-afc neo on my car w/ stock fpr and it seems that after reading all of this, I'm having overrun problems. I can't get the fuel trims on the logger to read less than 100% even leaning it way out with the afc. Also the exhaust is dark and smells like gas. I am...

He was right.. boost leak.

old thread...I bought a set of new pigtails. I know the polarity is important.. which way should the wires go? Dark wire toward driver side?

I'm getting the exact same thing.. rpms slow to build.. sluggish.. feels like there is a loss of power. I'm also getting a high knock count during this. Could a bad CAS cause knock?

So if the CAS is backwards it will cause symptoms like he is describing? My car is doing the same exact thing and I suspect the CAS as well. Although some people say you can put it in backwards and it has no affect on the way the car runs at all. That doesn't make sense though or they...

I'm just about fed up with this crappy stock ignition system.. can you suggest something to replace it? I was thinking coil on plug from SBR. Does the coil on plug setup still require the stock transistor box?

OK.. I'm going to jump in here and see if you guys can figure this out.I have a rebuilt 6 bolt with 700 miles on it. I have minor upgrades. 2G pistons, 1G rods, 255 pump, stock injectors, 2G turbo manifold, stock rebuilt turbo, 3'' down pipe with 30'' glass pack dumped toward ground w/ no...

"in the wrong place".. do you mean it was 180 backwards or was adjusted wrong? I have misfire on cyl 1 and 3 when I hook up the inductive timing light I can see it not firing consistently.

If the injectors fired too early with the CAS 180 out wouldnt that cause knock?

If he still gets really high knock counts w/ 100+ octane race gas, wouldnt that mean its been phantom knock he's been getting?

Would installing the cas 180 out cause the car to be more prone to detonate (knock)?

Ok I feel like an idiot. After reading some more I realize that the narrowband is worthless and I won't bother worrying about it anymore. :beatentodeath:

I have the same question about where the O2 voltage should read on the logger at WOT. Mine is reading at .60-.72 range at WOT. I understand the need for a wideband to tune with but I'm not tuning I just am trying to figure out why my readings seem to be so far away from everyone elses.

Makes sense.. I will check that. That is very possible becaues of the increase in boost pressure I was getting. Could have blown a hose connector loose or something. How could I check to see why or if the wastegate is the cause of the unlimited boost?

No I figured if it was making good vacuum and not idle surging that it wasnt a boost/vac leak.. am I wrong in that assumption?