Well that information alone is worth kicking out the $30 for a strut bar. Even if it doesn't help wheel hop but, it reduces damage to the driveline its worth it IMHO. Thanks for the info!
How do you launch at 3k without bogging out? I cut 2.2-2.3 on streets at 4.5k and it doesn't seem as if I'm slipping that much, perhaps I'm doing a quick slip borderline dumping it? When I try a 3k launch I cut 2.4-2.6 and a have to slip it longer to keep it from bogging out and it kills my ET...
With my ACT 2600 I launch at 4.5-4.75k or i will bog big time. On the stock clutch I did 3-3.5k. I don't know how anyone with an ACT 2600 can do a GST launch at 3k. I stall out when I tried a 3k launch. Couldn't imagine a 2.5k launch.
Heres a thought....1) I don't know about your State laws, but in California a dealer can NOT turbo charge a N/A car a re-sell it, for it will not pass SMOG out here. The dealer would get screwed in court so maybe its worth your while to look into that if you want out.2) Is an Eclipse GS...
I haven't upgraded mine yet because I can't find a simple unit as well. I thought about the SX unit or Aeromotive, but if I upgrade the "whole" fuel system it gets expensive. Check out this link. http://www.proplusfx.com/fuel/dsm_order.html
I may order my fuel setup from them.
It takes a little getting used to, but it is very simple. Basically once your ready to tune you have Mr. Pocketlogger record your O2, Timing, Throttle Postion, RPM, and maybe Speed (2g) and do your test runs in 3rd. Watch your boost gauge to see what your boost is at, and your EGT to see what...
I couldn't pass the visual test anywhere I went at first. As soon as I popped the hood open they saw the UIP, BOV, and intake and said "No Way". I think that will be the hardest part. My only recommendation is to start immediately and hit the little mom and pop shops or swap the stock parts back...
The lower it is the leaner you are. I want to say that Stoic is .80-.9something. Does anybody have the break down chart off hand? I know that .96+ is pig rich for my car.On a 2G STFT and LTFT the higher it is the richer you are. Maybe that is what your thinking of?
FYI - I'm @ 18psi and my S-AFC High settings are:-19% 1K
-18% 2K
-26% 3K
-34% 4K
-42% 5K
-44% 6K
-44% 7K
-44% 7.5kYou still can lean it out more. I hit 885C on the EGT with .90 O2 @ 21+ timing.
My car is doing the same stalling thing. I have tested the ISC, BISS, Plugs, plug wires, etc. I recently tested the REED switch (SoCal DSM recommended this). My latest idea is that maybe by "t" on my FPR line is jacking me up. I'm going to move my EBC "t" off the FPR to another line to see if it...
I WANT ONE! I hate my stupid stock oil return line. I think you may have gotten a better response if you had the title "New Aftermarket Oil Retun Line!" . Perhaps a Mod will change it for you if it is not against the forum rules. I hope it is not, since there are ZERO aftermarket oil return...
Yes it should be. If you follow you air filter to the intake pipe it will lead you to the turbo (big circle thingy). If it doesn't than you don't have one.
You should be able to do a search on it. The AGP turbos are the latest turbo that is being compared to everything (similar to the Mutts / ETE a few months back). Its my understanding that they are fairly new, but have some great reviews. Most of the posts I see are in regards to the L2R and I...
I'm not familar with the 1G trim line. Hopefully a 1g person can look at the pics and confirm your trim line. If you get a chance take some shots of under the hood. You may have a GST model instead of a GS Turbo. There is a BIG difference.
Step 1) Figure out what you bought.
Step 2) Verify what you bought.ORTake a few pics of the engine and post them. We can tell you what it looks like you have under the hood. If there is a big circle looking thingy that the air filter plugs into, take a picture of that too.
Any idea on how big of a turbo you plan on going with? If you are going to stay at the 16g range I believe you can do 550's without an S-AFC or management of somesort since you have a stock fuel pump and not rewired. Someone else would have to confirm this though.
I wouldn't do the injectors until later on in the upgrade path. On your Mod list you don't have a boost gauge or EGT listed. Grab those instead. The stock boost gauge is a POS and the EGT will save your a$$ when it comes to tuning. I would start there, then move to intake, bov, boost controller...
With my setup - my Profec B on Low all the way down is 14psi just to give you an idea. I believe all the way low (to the left) will set you to around the spring rate of the wastegate. It also depends on how you do your hoses. If i connect my wastegate directly to my pressure source it stays...
The humor is the best part I think - well the technical discussions are great when they pop up, but some of the threads kill me. I read one last night about the infamous 'Rear Windshield Wiper Squirter' and almost died laughing reading the stories about how people turn them around and squirt...
Yeah the pic is bad. I can't get the red to show up on a digital camera. It took a dozen shots just to get it where you can see it. The red is a bit dim but then again I have 4 color options and 4 brightness levels if I remember correctly. I just dont play with it much. I'm sure there are better...
The gauges were from Advanced Imports. They are a Silver Reverse Indiglo. All my gauges are Silver so it matches. The needles are from Import Intelligence.
You are correct those are the dump tubes. Honestly I don't think it will matter on length. You are dumping exhaust straight down below the engine bay. I imagine if you wanted to you could extend them but there may not be a purpose to it. Typically they design the O2 housings with enough pipe so...
Do you know anyone with a logger so that you can check your O2 readings? If I am not mistaken you are shooting in the dark by not knowing what your O2's are.
ermmm - I think she is asking if you can tell how much boost the boost controller is set to by 'reving' the engine. If that was the question then the answer is no. You have to set the boost controller; do a few runs and watch the boost gauge; adjust if needed to the desired boost level. If that...
The Green is a great turbo. You won't be disappointed. In regards to the L2R & L3R i'm looking forward to see them hit the times list. From the sounds of them they will give FP some more competition which equals better buys and turbos for us consumers :D Gotta love competition.
An external wastegate can be routed either back into the exhaust or dumped out. Heres a pic of various O2 housings.The T28 turbo most likely has an internal wastegate or actuator. I believe you may see better flow and performance with a dump tube on the internal. I'm sure someone will...
Personally I would like to see Dyno runs before believing the 80hp. Heck here is a 'Tornado' ad
"Save Fuel!
Better fuel atomization results in an increase in gas mileage up to 28%!!!
Increase Power!
Dynometer testing shows up to a 13 horsepower increase! "...
I didn't have to. The 3" high flow cat I bought from HRC was longer than standard so it made up for the small section that was cut off from the cat back, but yes it would depend on your cat setup.
Great to hear you found it. You are now familar with venting to the atmosphere and what it can do =) but I have to disagree about the Greddy. It may be a common item purchased, but I am of the opinion it is no where close to the best BOV for a DSM, but that is neither here nor there. Happy Boosting!
That is a common problem that I have seen and most seem to have the Greddy Type S BOV. I have the same problem as well. I have ordered a TurboXS H34 to hopefully get rid of that, the compressor surge, and stupid "bucking" my car does at low rpm shifts. I'll let ya know if it helps. OH - when I...