Are you actually having misfiring or is it just setting faults? If it is running bad, see if somebody on here lives near you and has a good coil pack to swap. They aren't that cheap. You could have coil pack transistor problem, bad ECM or even a mechanical problem. Have you checked compression?

Ah, they finally showed up for me. It's hard to tell just by looking at them, at least for me. It looks to me like the timing it starting out low when boost comes on and then steadily climbing until you let off. Also, it doesn't look the ECU has made any adjustment for for a lean condition...

Check the fusible links

It's hard to say if they are good or bad with out seeing but I can tell you it's perfectly normal for the magnet to look like a hedgehog after 30k miles or so, so as long as it shifts okay it's probably fine.

If you are talking about the bracket that the calipers are mounted to, the bolts that mount them to the steering knuckle should be 17mm. You'll probably want to get it in a 1/2" drive because they are usually rusted and need some good torque to break loose.

Actually we would have a viscous type limited slip in the rear so you should be able to move that wheel seperately from the others until you start to spin it with enough force to apply torque to the the other wheel. Have you checked the brakes and are you sure the axle joints are good?

A)The point of my post is to tell you to try and post your images as an attachment rather than a link from some other site so we can see more than "x".B)I haven't suggested at anything being the problem yet.C)To find the cause, we need more information(see A)

Try again, just a couple of the infamous "red x's"

What is your long term fuel trim at those points?

If you can still see the cross-hatch all the way around, you should be good to go especially with the low mileage. There were threads on here recently that you may want to search for about honing, it seems that some people think it's better to not hone the cylinders if you are putting cast...

That's not right, less than .001" taper is what you would shoot for on a refinished cylinder. You can have taper .005" depending on what you are doing with the engine. Straightness, however, should not exceed .001". The more critical spec is out-of-round, that is what will kill your rebuild.

Try this trick to get it lined back up with out totally redoing it: take a medium-small screwdriver and carefully stick it between the belt and sprocket at the top and make sure it isn't going to hit anything. Then take and rotate the engine over clockwise until the screwdriver comes loose at...

Thanks, but I have already seen both of those over the course of the years. I am specifically looking for flow numbers at different lifts. I am not trying to decide b/w a 1g or 2g head but rather trying to match components to the 2g head(cams mainly). If the research hasn't been posted on the...

www.ibexbikes.com/Bikes-Hub-MTB.html I was considering a bike from these guys myself. I was looking at the Alpine 650. They sell direct from manufacture so it saves some bucks and I have read some good things about them on mtbr.com. They have their own forum and the worst thing anybody had to...

Unfortunatly it could be many things, the design of the engine cover causes any oil leaking on to it to migrate down to below the balancer. It could be as high up as the cam seals, it could be a head gasket, crank seal, oil pump shaft seal, right balancer seal. It could also be the engine...

Anybody have flow bench results from a 2g head? I thought somebody had posted a 1g and 2g comparison before, but when I searched it ended up being a 1g head with different intakes and porting etc.

To install studs, you could replace the stock bolts one-by-one in sequence. I would take out the first bolt and washer then drop in the new washer followed by the stud. Torque it down to factory spec then continue in the proper sequence and once they are all in, re-torque to ARP specs. If you...

It's probably a type of galvanic corrosion between the hose and pipe. I think the stock hoses are made from real rubber, and real rubber conducts some electricity(it's not as great an insulator as some think). For shitz 'n giggles sometime take a volt meter and touch one end to B+ and the...

Like GTM metioned, you could have a porous head or even be cracked. Just had an 05 Neon with porus head, 3k miles on the engine and had half a quart of oil in the coolant but no coolant in the oil. Compression tested perfect all the way accross but still was getting oil in the coolant. If...

Not likely any taper in the cylinder walls, the cross hatch still appears to be there all the way down. If the smoke is coming only after shifts, I would suspect intake guides/seals as the engine vacuum between shifts could pull oil down past the valves. If it seems to only smoke as the boost...

I don't know if you have found what you are looking for yet, but there are no hub assys. The wheel bearing is pressed into the knuckle and the hub is then pressed into the bearing. I doubt you will have much luck getting a new knuckle with bearing and hub already assembled, try a junkyard...

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000E1Q2LQ/002-1696397-0805646?v=glance&n=228013 Not sure what you are trying to describe but that is what you need. I have a Snap-on hex bit socket similar to that and I got it used with a bunch of tools and have personally removed and installed about a dozen...

Is the compression gauge known to be good? Have you tried it on another engine lately?

Taps are made of really hard, and therefore brittle metal. If you can hit em with an air hammer or perhaps a big hammer and punch, it should break into small pieces.Actally it makes perfect sense, as the metal heats up it expands, this causes the holes to also expand. Since aluminum can...

Just make sure you use factory head bolts since the 2g holes are 1mm smaller. Also if you are going to feed oil off the head, make sure the galley is clear and that you have good oil pressure to the turbo.

Are you asking if you can leave out the oil control rings? What problem needs diagnosing?

Looks like a broken differential.

Sounds like you are talking about the purge solenoid, the other port should be for a vacuum line that goes the the throttlebody. If you remove the canisiter there is no need for the solenoid if it doesn't set a CEL with it unplugged.

We have mass air flow systems not speed-density so the MAP sensor is not used for fuel calculations. It's used on Mitsu's and Hyundai that use Mitsu fuel systems to monitor the egr system. It is part of the emissions system so it should cause the check engine light to come on with stock...

A horn is a horn and it doesn't matter which wire goes where because it's just a load device. Make sure one of the wires has ground and the other has 12v with the horn button pressed. If both are good the horn is bad.

http://www.vfaq.com/mods/Trannies.html

There are a couple of options, the most popular is to have the exhaust manifold modified to bolt on a wastegate such as this:http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=220891&highlight=manifold+wastegate. Then you need weld the flapper shut on the turbo.Or you could get an o2 housing...

Only thing I can think of is input shaft seal or a cracked case.

You are not planning on doing the rebuild yourself, are you?

^^Yes, I just found that out last night as I was purging air from my system. I had a circuit diagram that for some reason said that the switch closes at 217deg, but then I found out that it was more like 200deg when it really closed so I am not quite sure why the diagram said something...

Have you checked the coolant level? This can happen if you have air pockets or low coolant level, once the cool air starts passing through the radiator it causes the coolant to contract and the level drops, if it was low to begin with or you have a bad vacuum valve on the radiator cap, the...

How did they test your battery? If they didn't perform the load test properly or didn't even load test, that is the problem. A battery can have 12.5V and only have a few CCA.What exactly is your symptoms by the way? Does it crank and not fire up or does it make rapid clicking noises when...

Seems to be common these days for people to throw a rocker arm. Most likely your valve hit the piston.

Chrysler had to actually release a TSB for the Caravans a few years back saying the ratcheting noise is normal because so many people were complaining when shifting in to driver/reverse or coming to a stop(due to the solenoid pack being outside the trans it is more noticeable than most...

Well, exhaust doesn't have to be leaking from piping. In fact, a leak in the piping wouldn't cause any problems. A leak before the o2 sensor is what you are looking for. This could be caused by a warped manifold or head surface, a cracked manifold turbo or o2 housing or a blown manifold, turbo...

I find it interesting that the shell of spark plugs have a standard hex size(13/16 or 3/8) but the threads are metric(14mm). So in that sense, most plugs are metric. Must be some sort of SAE attempt at a "melting pot".

Buzzing noise is too vague. Does it sound like a lawn mower? If so it could be an exhaust leak. Also saying that your car is running lean is too vague, at what RPM and what boost level? How do you know you are running lean and it's not a bad o2 sensor? If you are running rich when you think...

Probably wouldn't use Dexcool. I like Mopar extended life coolant, the HOAT(hybrid organic additves) which has just the right amount of silicates where as the OAT package found in Prestone and Dexcool have no silicates.Just my .02

You are going to got 12 volts, if you test like that. We wanted to test current, not volts. If you hooked it up like that, your jumper wire should not be getting warm if there is less than an amp of current flowing(if everything is right there should be only a few milliamperes flowing).The...

Conquest rear end is not the same, it's way bigger and has a different gear ratio.

Are you sure you used the correct bulbs in the front and not just bulbs that fit? Have you tried using a volt meter to see if you really have good power and ground to the bulbs?

How did you rule out the lifters? If the lifters are getting stuck, they could be holding the valves partially open thus causing your vacuum drop at the same time the tapping gets louder.

Do you have a way to measure fuel pressure? I suspect that your fuel pressure is either bleeding back through the fuel pump or leaking past the regulator. Try unhooking the vacuum line to the regulator when it's running, if any gas comes out of there you know it's bad.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=201433&highlight=axle+seals That should tell you all you need to know about replacing the axle seals.

If you wanted to test the coil unplug the coil pack connector and just take your ohm meter and measure resistance from where cyl 2 and cyl 3 ignition cables plug into the coil pack and then between 1 and 4. 2 and 3 are the two closest to the front of the car and 2 and 4 are closest to the...