Nice write up, TY, I will be using this soon, I have exceded the limits of the 255/044 combo, so I am replaceing the 255!So I was able to install mine without drilling the hole moving the screw down. And I also used the "orange" plastic ring and set that in the housing and then the O-ring on...
So, I was wondering how the reports on this were? I am looking for another clutch and think I am tired of the PTT and am looking at something different. I am tired of it not lasting and destroying my tranny.
I am trying to chase down a misfire that is driving me crazy. It's not all the time, but most of the time, it happens about 30% of the time I try 1st, 60% of the time I try 2nd, and 90% 3rd. Anyway, Tried 3 different sets of new plugs gapped between .20 and .26 (BR7ES, BR8ES, BPR7ES). swapped 3...
Filter, over the 5-6yrs when I was good, all different name brands.... while I was "N/A" I had some generic one in there flushing it out, now with the brand penn I have a mobile 1 in there
K, back ground, started off with a Journal bearing turbo(s), (first AGP RS60, then S362) both feed from the OFH. During that time I don't think I ever saw my oil pressure above 80psi at WOT (don't remember idle, I just remember always watching it during pulls, for fear of blowing my sending...
Tried that, it didn't change anything for me, and according to Thomas, that isn't "exactly" what it's for... but it sometimes "helps', but ty for that info.
To test, set multimeter on "ohm" and while you are looking at the ISC you will have 3 across and 2 down...........1 2 3
4 5 6Test 1&2 and 2&3 each should be about 30 (black ones are higher) then do the same with 4&5 and 5&6And NO WAY would I buy a new one, 2 reasons, I am sure...
That's what I want to see if I can try tomorrow (buy a used one from a pull and pay). Just because that is what it soooooooooooooo looks like, but I wanted to research, pick brains until then.
K, here goes nothing. I have been living with this for too long now. I try and get my idle right and think I do. But here's what happens; If it's not idleing at 1500 it's surging between 1000-1500. Here's the kickers. Base timing is 5* BTDC, Biss doesn't help, NO LEAKS! I SAY AGAIN, NO LEAKS...
I am torn between 2 turbo set ups........ Here are my options1) FP HTA DSM86, FP Race manifold, FP 2.5" O2 housing, All new, all from FPOR2) Billet S366 ETT T3 .70ar, USED PR T3 Tubular Mani (I would have to find a way to weld my 38mm V Band on, cause it has the 44mm on it), PR 3" V...
NICE HOOD!!!! but let me clearafy a couple things on my set-up.
I get direct air a heck of a lot more direct........ my filter sits right where the stock SMIC sat, can't get more direct then that. The only thing that can pick up heat prior to the turbo, is well, the piping........ and no way...
Is no one running short route intercooler piping? Cause seriously, a whole heck of a lot more air feeing it in the wheel wheel, a whole heck of a lot colder air, and ah, I don't have a big hole in a messed up head-light........... and ah, isn't there also the potental of the cops messing with...
I am just wondering if anyone has had any luck with running one of these. If so, for how long? and what's your set-up? Twice now I totally smoothed out the inner splines on the disks in less then 1000 miles, So, I am wondering if anyone found a way for these to work good.TY
JOE
OMG!!!!!!!! AGAIN!!!!!!!!!! I can't belive that, there are only hundreds of miles on it.......... there's even OVER .192 left on ea disk........... WTF, wonder what they will / won't do for me...........
But of course........... TY, yeah, I have heard that about PTT's also, that's why the title is (AGAIN!)......... need to update the sig, but at 7000' DA I run 11.0@128........... cutting a 1.75 on DR's......... that's how I snapped my rear axle to begin with..........
how long the 6 bolt been in? did ya hook up the "4th" wire for the swap the one from the crank? did it come loose? you do have "random mis-fire" not being looked for (like dis-ableing it in DSMLink)
the actual factory wires coming to the coil pack, that's why I was trying to explain to to "rotate" the coil packs around. by actually removing the lil caps and unscrewing the wires and flip flopping the 1/2 packs........... then if the same lil wires are the only ones working, sounds like...
I agree with the splines thing..... been there done that too, 1k miles ago?, that's why I said PTT AGAIN............grrrrrrrr, it does sound like that, but prior to my rear axle snapping, clutch was awesome and quiet, and now WOW, and the bolt just fell............ one said maybe...........That...
I don't know if I can word this to make total sense, but hopefully you can follow me............ do a couple things........ as stated above, pull out your coil pack so you can play with things. And change wires around so you are trying different wires in different spots. DO NOT CHANGE THE FIRING...
SORRY to bring the dead back to life........ but if I didn't, I would have been told to search...........lol, anyone have any kind update? I realized the COP limits to, and just thought I had a bad COP, or my brown (used to be white) wires needed replaced. I see now, the standard COP's are more...
Well, 2 weeks ago everything was fine (for about 24hrs), Go to the track, snap a rear axle. Well, got the rear axle in today, and NOW I can barely get it into gear. It is a nasty nasty sound while trying to go into gear and grinding (most of the time), then as I start to roll gets louder but...
Just order a "intake leak tester" here................Intake Leak Pressure TesterLocal good guy!!!I use this, the nice thing about it, as your needs change, just change to another reducer coupler
If he would do what I said a while ago............ turn on fuel pump, boost pressure test.......... all these other questions would be easily answered!!!! Set base pressure (that should have been done, before enen asking anything), then turn on the fuel pump, then add pressure, look at both fuel...
First like stated above........ ensure pressure is really falling and the guage just isn't lying on ya.Check voltage at WOT
DSMLink? if so, turn on the fuel pump, and do a boost leak test.......... ie see if fuel pressure goes up like that.Joe
Looking really good, just for others for future searches, someone started mentioning it, but I love what I did. And that is, I have a "short route" FMIC so the original "hole" the stock UICP goes through is now where my filter goes down through, and viola!!! Filter sits right where the side...
How did you "try" to repair them? Meaning, I am looking at picking one up from a junk yard, and assuming the lengths dont match up, and I would need longer, I was just going to splice the 2(?) wires.TY
JOE
TY, I would of looked it up in caps myself, but I only have CAPS that works with XP, and no longer have XP! I'm hoping they're only different cause of the cable lengths, so, off to try a slice!
TY
JOE
Grrrrrrrrrrr, thx, that's what I was afraid of, welp, don't think I could fix it, wonder 2 things, if one for the rear AWD is distinqtive or if I even need it.
TY
Now, check your power transistor............ no, I don't know of a test you can do, but that would do it!If you've already tried new coil pack, go there next (lil black box with a wide clip)JOE
I had the same fault recently, and thought the MAF and O2 were bad......... ended up being, base timing was off and injectors needed dialing in........ before you spend money...... look at them things.JOE