I can't find the picture on my phone. When I click the one on the site it downloads fine. Maybe try another device?

People are successfully running Evo 8 ecus in a 1G. Just takes a bit of wiring then some tuning. You might consider going that route.

Posting photos for Pagosa DSM.

I gained extra headroom by chopping off the humps on the center rear seat mount points then lowering them flush with the rest of the bar and rewelding. After that I added a block on the outside front to bring it level with the inside front. That gave me a level area to mount new brackets and...

Glad you like it. Make it a little narrower than I did.

This is probably why. Someone else's coupe bar is on top, mine is below. The 45 degree bends make it stick out too far where the extremely wide convertible top support arms are. It hits them. You have to drop the height of the bar down considerably to avoid them. Unless you're short of stature...

It fits under the top so I don't think it changes the proportions. I think it impacted handling though. I took the car to its first autocross a week ago. The rear end likes to step out easier than any DSM I've had before. The first hard braking I had before a corner I slid into the cones...

I'm eagerly awaiting updates. How did it all go besides beating Atoms? Which is super cool btw.

No rear speakers but if someone were more committed to them than me (I don't even have a stereo or front speakers right now) they could find a way.I bought a pre bent main hoop from some site for a 2g dsm and it didn't fit at all. The shoulders were too high and hit the very thick c pillars...

That is some seriously rough luck. :barf::cry:Will you be able to replace Brilliant's aero kit? Surely they kept the molds...Your car is really amazing and it's awesome you go track it. Hope this doesn't keep you down and out too long.

I'm sure the car is stiffer but it is hard to say for sure how much. I definitely feel safer driving it hard now knowing I have a little more safety.

Here's what it looks like with the interior back in and padding on the bar.I spent about $500 but got a bro deal on labor.

I did the design and fitting. A fabricator I know bent the hoop and did the welding plus a little fabrication to fit the rear plates and reinforce the fronts.

I really felt the need for a functional 4 point roll bar but wanted to keep my back seats so my wife and daughter could ride along with me. This bar works perfect for my goals. I wanted to share it since so few are shown on here for spyders.

Trying to tune my knock sensor on an Evo 8 ECU. Is this real of phantom knock? I adjust the multipliers but I'm still getting these readings. AFR seems good for the boost level.1). Any boost, vac, or exhaust leaks? One small exhaust leak at flange for external WG2). Verified mechanical...

I don't think I'd trust those welded studs to hold a full fuel tank going over bumps. I just drilled up though the bottom holes as guides, dropped carriage bolts through and tapped them down flush with a hammer. They look fine, don't spin and will definitely hold.

Just weld in where you drilled spot welds.

For a Spyder you have to cut in from the side. For a Galant or a coupe you can drill holes in the top side and drop the bolts in.

Thanks for the response. Pictures would be great.The 3 point belts would be for street use. I'm planning to build the roll bar such that my passenger back seat is still useable. That means I can't put a 4 point belt on that side all the time.

I dropped the OEM front bolts in the front then tack welded the base in place so they didn't spin.Yes, the plate, bushing, square washer thingy, whatever you want to call it. I have a friend with a mill so it cost me nothing but time. They're nice but probably not completely necessary.

There is no problem just letting the bolt heads rest in the frame rail but you can get the bushing made that is shown elsewhere in this thread. I've gone both ways and either is fine.You can use whatever bolt you want for the gas tank. I'd put the largest one you can fit though it in. Fine...

I know this is old but I'm trying to decide where to put my main hoop for my Spyder. I'm thinking I may cut the side bracing out where the rear seat rise is and weld it there since I'm 6'4" and can't fit the tube on the floor pan. Is that cross brace area a "legal" spot to put a bar? In the...

It was a bad coil pack. I swapped to a spare on a hunch that I was getting spark blowout. I hit 24 pisg on my first pull and had to back off. Holy @#$% this thing spools quick now. Time to turn the boost down a little bit and go tune!

The previous log was with all the boost leaks. The log attached to this post is with all the boost leaks fixed except a tiny one at the banjo fittings for my WG. I'll get that fixed today if I can find copper washers the right size.You can see where I lifted on the throttle in the first log...

All I have right now is the logs before the boost leak was fixed. I'm attaching one. I was going a little down hill at the time. It started stuttering hard at ~5 psi right where the AFR starts leaning out. Again, that was with the boost leak. I can't say the AFR is still doing the same but it...

Boost leaks are gone. Now it stutters and won't build past 3 psig. I'll do some logging this weekend and see if I'm just running too lean/rich now.I haven't noticed any exhaust leaks or cracks. The BEP housing is new as is the tubular O2 housing. It is chinabay but I sanded all the flanges to...

I found a big leak at one t bolt clamp that wasn't tight enough on the intercooler lines. My 4" test cap was leaking so I got parts for a better setup and will try again tonight.

The turbo inlet is 4" so using a test fitting there that doesn't slip out under pressure is tough. The 2" line just past it is much easier. I'm using abs pipe caps with a Schroeder valve threaded in and a 100 psig analog gauge.I did soapy bubble testing when I pressurized from the TB. It led...

I tested at the turbo inlet previous to rebuilding it. I'll try testing there again and see. I'll also test right after the outlet.

Well I fixed the brake booster leak. I didn't know the OEM line going to it had the check valve internally so I threw one in the line I used.I'm still getting the same problem. I've tried changing my WGDC table to all 0 and 100 and nothing changes. I've scaled my injectors up and down. The...

Turns out I have a big boost leak in my brake booster. Oops.

I'm pulling my hair out. I can't seem to build past 5 psi of boost on my car. It appears to be load related as I can't boost to as high a PSI when I'm pulling a hill at lower RPMs (3k). Car has a 2.4 @ 9:1 CR with an HX35. I'm running an Evo 8 ECU with the stock 2g MAF.I've tried:rebuilding...

You can easily skip welding the front carrier piece in. I just fished some bolts through the existing piece with some wire and tack welded them so they wouldn't spin. No cutting or drilling required. Then I welded the exhaust hangers on. The indents are already there to do it all.EDIT: NVM, I...

This is Pagosa DSM's photo.

Uploading these for Pagosa DSM. They are on his car.

Holy massive page count, Batman! I read (almost) all of this, searched a lot and still have some questions.I picked up a 2001 Eclipse 2.4 MT ecu in the junk yard for running in my 99 GST. I read that there are some pins missing but can't find solid info on what they are. Looks like the...

Here is a way to eliminate drone. I am thinking of building a slip fit chamber that is "tunable" by changing the length.http://www.performancetrucks.net/forums/gm-engine-exhaust-performance-21/how-build-exhaust-resonator-tube-eliminate-drone-489463/You could probably use two or three if you...

Very cool. Ray Peters was working on a design for one a while back too but I don't think he ever finished. How far along are you?

Yes.

eclipsh updated 99 Spyder AWD 2.4TView updates to this DSM profile...

Maybe I used 6". I just bought them at a hardware store. I secured them with lock nuts. Welding the top side so they didn't spin would have made life easier but wasn't necessary. I just left a box end wrench on that was swung against the car to prevent spinning.

I used 7" or 8" x 1/2" Grade 8 bolts for the rear on my Galant swap and will do the same for the Spyder.

No. The rear bolts you have to cut the top and pull them out to put longer ones in. See my picture up a few posts for the easiest way to get the driver rear out. I mucked it up a bit not knowing there was a short weld on the front edge at first. Grind that before you pry and you wont tear things...

The easiest method is to drop them out the bottom as a unit if you can gain the clearance to do it. Just pull the rear motor mount bracket off before you do.

You're better off sticking with a 4G6X engine. The 6A12TT is a 2.0 and not well supported. It doesn't rev high, doesn't have any additional displacement and has more than twice as many issues/failure points as a 2.0 4 cylinder. If you're curious about them go check out TheGalantCenter.org and...

Or just wait and buy the new AWD TDI car VW and Audi will be selling within the next year or two. That or go to a TDI swap into a Toyota truck or 4runner. That has been done many times and is well documented.

I'm going g to have to agree with Rick. Buy a good radiator and do ducting for that. Why repeat all that work. If you've read about the differences in efficiency for quality intercoolers vs. cheap it should give you some idea about radiators too. Reading reviews of CXracing rads I wouldn't count...

Thanks. I am doing a BSE and porting the oil filter housing. I'll stick a gauge on and base my oil selection off pressure.

Thanks for the info. What oil do you recommend?

I'm rebuilding my 2.4 and want to make sure I'm putting the right parts in for my target. I'm looking at ~450-500 HP as a goal. I have a 4G64 bottom end and 2g head. I've got Wiseco "9:1" pistons I'm reusing with new rings. Head has BC valve springs, a 3 angle valve job, ARP head studs. I've got...