Thanks for the reply!:rocks: Just the caliper itself if possible. More so where the brake line and parking brake line mount ( you really can't get a good view with it mounted on the vehicle). Thats the biggest difference from the AWD T to the FWD T rear calipers. ThanksJon
Sorry for this strange request. Long story short. I ordered REAR calipers for a 92 AWD DSM. Company sent me the wrong ones due to the supplier they go through. The suppliers provided them with the same part numbers for the FWD turbo, and the AWD turbo. They are willing to work with me, but would...
It wouldn't be a bent control arm causing a wobble. The control arms don't move in a rotational manner, just up and down with suspension. Wouldn't cause a consistent wobble.I would check your brakes, the rotors, and calipers. I've seen rear calipers get seized up, and make a grinding...
I searched through the forums for a similar problem, but nothing like this:This started out of the blue one day.INFO/FACTS:There are three main wires that are attached to the positive terminal. One that has three main fuses, one that goes to the alternator fuse, and one for the...
Well honestly it's kinda hard to say. I can barely get it to make that sound while free reving it. I can hear it faintly, sounds like it would be coming from the upper part of the cylinder closest to the timing belt. Once the engine is in gear and in a very light load, it's much louder.
I have a stock long block with 120,000 miles on it. Few months ago I took my car out of storage and was driving it around. I didn't know it at the time, that there was an oil leak from my turbo return line. Needless to say while I was driving on the hwy my oil light came on. My stock...
If you blew a vac line, should be kinda easy to pin point. When I blow mine usually hear a hissing sound from the vacuum line. If not, boost leak test will further help in finding a vac/boost leak.Jack up the rear end, and support properly. Then play around with the drive shaft, see if you...
A turbo maybe a simple device, but it takes a lot of precision to work properly. To have the material withstand 1500+ EGT temps, and spin 100,000+ rpm and not break down within a certain period of time. Choosing compressor maps, and balancing also.It takes the brains, equipment, and labor...
What do you have for exhaust? A high free flowing exhaust can cause creep too. Thats why porting is a common mod in the stock MHI housing's. I guess the gasket can cause it, maybe not allowing the flapper to open all the way. Why don't you just change the gasket?
Why don't you think tubular manifold has no business being street driven? Not concerning quality, you can find an ebay tubular manifold with a wastegate tapped on the collector. I like that design. What about a tubular manifold, but instead of the crazy bends, just make it straight out, like...
Is your 1g BOV crushed? If so, it may have been crushed down too far. Also, check the vacuum line to the BOV. Make its free of leaks. I like to have my BOV with a dedicated line (nothing "T" into it exple. boost controller).
Turbo looks like the EVO III GT from China. Like the "ported" casting on the exhaust side. I don't think thats a MHI turbo. Well for the price I'd probably do it too. I'm just sticking to the 14b for now.
K guys thanks for the replies. Like I said, just an idea. I'm probably going to pursuit it, cause I'm just curious. For what I've looked at, and pieced together in my head, don't see it costing all too much. It's not that I'm against tuning, or fuel upgrades. It's just I want to do...
I'm not against tuning. I just want to make all my power from the bolt ons first. That's all. I'm getting the parts cheap may I add. I'm performing mods that will benefit in it's stock form, and when I chose to further modify my vehicle. I find this very reasonable.Well, if you read...
Thanks for the input. I know that I will need to get a fuel mods, to get the full use out of that turbo. I was planning on running around 13-14psi. I just want more top end power. I feel as if the 14b doesn't deliver from 5500 to 7000rpm. I'm not knocking either. My buddy is an idiot, and...
Mods are up to date. My next mods, are an fmic kit, evo iii 16g, cyclone manifold ( I know how to make it properly function), mild cams, and the "high flow fuel delivery mod." Found here:http://www.stevetek.com/R-FuelSys.htmlI just want to do bolt ons for my car. That's my goal. No...
This is awesome... I was seriously considering to buy the extreme intercoolers kit, until this thread. Glad to see your still coming with updates. Keep it up.:thumb:
Try resetting the ECU. Unplug the battery for about 15min. It will set your fuel trims back to 100%. See if you o2 will cycle now, if it does, see how high the fuel trims climb.What's your other fuel trims look like?
Ahh, I'm so confused!:cry: I don't know what the plans are! The Eau Claire crew would have loved to come out this past Sat, but it was canceled, and seems like there was still a meet!Well Alex, give Mike a call to keep us in Eau Claire up to date. I'm the only one with a dsmtuners...
How about an award for the most slipping clutch? I'll win! I'm coming, just babying her, no time to put in the 2600. So nothing crazy for me on the cruise. Looks like it's going to be two DSM's, rolling from Eau Claire. So if anyone is coming from the west, (hudson, cities) you could stop...
I just put GR-2's in all four corners. Tein S-tech spings, from SBR. Front and rear strut bars. Oh man its awesome compared to the stock setup. I'm very satasfied with this combo, and gives it a nice sporty stance. Ride quality is great.
It was a big pain to get my o2 sensor out. We tried an o2 sensor socket, and we broked that. Went to advance, and found another o2 sensor socket that the ratchet attaches to the side of the socket. Giving it a more elleptical look to it. It was much stronger, and were able to get the o2...
I mentioned lifters first, because you mentioned how it got louder when you changed your oil. Sometimes a tiny tiny exhaust leak by the manifold or something gets mistakened as a ticking sound also. But ya, give the lucas a try first.
I know the 4g63's, especially on the 1g's are known to have a lifter tick. This sounds familiar to what you have. If so, you can try some Lucas oil stabilizer, see if that helps. You can try some sea foam through the oils, just before your next oil change. I'm not too sure of the 420a's but...
The frames are not the same. The AWD's have an independent rear suspension. I know there are some minor differences in the front, cause the Haynes manual shows different areas to jack the car up on. I believe there are some more in depth threads on here that you can search for, that explain...
I have a full three inch exhaust. I have my silencer in, and it did make a big difference in sound. As for as performance goes I can't say yet. I keep it in cause of boost creep. With the silencer off I saw it creep right away to 21lbs, so until I get my 14b ported, the silencer is staying...
Like an internal, and external, or two externals? Just want to know. Trying to get ideas to help out with my boost creep. I just dont feel that porting will eliminate/help the problem.
I get it when I coast down in gear. Are you sure it's your tranny? Cause I know a lot of awd's get a noice slowing down, and it comes from the rear. Your best be would to have a shop put it up on a lift, and take a stealthoscope to it. Listen for anything out of the ordinary.
Ya, I believe they are the same. Mine broke too. I made creation out of the fuel AN fittings. The blue and red ones. I have a picture of it. I'll get it up soon, and show ya what I did.