Ive tried searching around, but haven't found any with a classifieds section.Ebay only has a few. I'm bidding on them, but I want more

If your going to customize the one in the link, why not just make your own? Or have a shop weld some up for you? Ill bet it could be done for cheaper than $90

Are there any playstation or gamer specific forums out there? Specifically one with a classifieds section.I need to buy some broken ps3's and I think that would be the best way to go about it.

So I inspected the front axles as much as I could without lifting up the car, and they looked fine to me. Then I drove it around the block and there was a constant clunking sound as if an axle was bad. it was worse when turning and even worse when turning in reverse.SO Im going to lift it up...

right on man, thanks a bunch for all your help. Ill take a closer look at it this weekend and post up what I find.I have a fwd auto parts car, does anyone know if either axle is interchangeable between awd and fwd auto 2g's?

Well hopefully it is just an axle, and not the center diff or viscous coupler.I can replace an axle easily!

I got stuck because I didnt move my car before the plow truck came by and there was a HUGE amount of snow all around the car.Is that really normal for only ONE tire to be spinning? I would think that at least one of the front wheels would spin?Also after getting the car unstuck, I took it...

hey I am having some trouble with my talon. I was stuck in some snow earlier today even with awd and winter tires on it!When I was trying to get out, put the car in D and started reving the engine expecting the tires to all spin in place. But only the passenger rear wheel would spin at all...

I think that would look a lot nicer if they put the 2ga talon sideskirts on there instead of the 2gb eclipse ones.

Nope, im talking about the starter plate. The one between the engine and the transmission. Maybe it was the right one, but was just too beat up.

I just swapped in a new engine. The engine came from a car with a manual trans, and this car is auto. Cant remember if I swapped starter plates or not, but this one is a bit bent up too.

Turns out the flexplate bolts were right up against the starter plate. And when the engine turned over the flexplate bolts would shave a bit of the starter plate away. That was the knocking noise I was hearing. Fortunately it was nothing major!I have the transmission out and a new starter...

Gonna say effe it and pull the transmission this weekend. Ill update the thread when I figure it out.Guess what I noticed!

YouTube - Damn dsm idling goofy.....anyone know how to post links to videos on here? Every time I try to post the link nothing shows up in my post.

I turned the crank over and checked the bolts quick and they seemed fine. Didnt check the torque on them though.I started the car up and let it run for a bit, then I shifted it out of park and into neutral and the knocking was quite a bit quieter.Here is a quick video I took of it...

Yeah, I ran it but couldn't really tell. Ill get a video and some pics up this weekend.Hopefully I just have to remove the trans and not the whole engine.

Its all stock as far as I know.I took the inspection cover off and took a quick glance and everything seemed ok. Ill check the bolts and dig into it a bit deeper this weekend.

Anyone know how to edit the title so it was [RESOLVED] or whatever they put in there.

Well I got a new ecu in there and reattached the little bracket that Alex_Brand was talking about and now she runs and drives great!Thanks so much tuners!

Are you talking about that little "L" shaped thingie that is held onto the throttle body by a screw and the top throttle body bolt.I know I dont have that on right now. I didnt know it was a ground. Ill go replace that and see what happens.

Well now the car doesnt even want to start at all. So I took the CAS out and spun it over by hand and didnt hear the injectors ticking, so I tried 2 other CAS' I had laying around and still the same thing. I am buying a new ECU and going to throw that on when school gives me some free time.I...

There is a real loud knocking sound coming from what sounds like the torque converter or flywheel area.Its a steady knocking sounds and is pretty loud. Almost sounds like rod knock, but I just put the engine in and its been doing it since i first started it up.Only reason I havent...

But if it has reasonable values the ecu is controlling it properly right? Meaning the isc drivers on the ecu aren't bad.Or am I wrong?Ill see if I cant find a known good throttle body, and throw that on.

Thanks for the reply. I dont know for sure that the FIAV is good but I tried 2 different throttle bodies.If mmcd is showing reasonable values for the isc, could it still not be functioning properly?

Wow, I just went a re-read through my post. I cant believe I forgot to mention that this was on a 1991 GVR4!Not a 95 GST!!!Can I use a 2g TPS on a gvr4? Ive got a few laying around.Also my log file seems to be corrupted or something, because it didnt want to upload all the way onto the...

Ive got a 1g TB. I just got mmcd to work again and adjusted the TPS back to 10%. Still surging like crazy.-Tried disconnecting the idle switch and it wouldnt surge but would idle over 2000 rpms. -Tried disconnecting the Maf sensor and it still idle surged the same, but sounded a bit...

This damned palm pilot keeps resetting itself and deleting mmcd. Finding a laptop with a serial port is getting harder and harder to do, but as soon as I get mmcd up and running again ill grab some logs and post em up.Thanks!

oh, i forgot to mention that egr valve is blocked off and so are the emissions vacuum lines on the TB.

Ive got a pesky little idle surge problem. When its warm it idle surges between 1000-1500 rpm fairly rapidly. I put a new 02 sensor on it, and I tested for boost leaks. I found out that the intake manifold gasket was leaking and the TB gaskets were also leaking. Replaced all that and retested...

ok, so I replaced the resistor pack with a good one. AND SHE RUNS!!!But leaks a bunch of coolant, so time to continue the diagnosing!

im beginning to suspect its a bad resistor pack...I am not 100% sure because I dont know how to properly test it. But I tested the resistance between various pins on the resistor pack connector and all I ever got was either 0 or no continuity.

Well I put my eprom ecu in and swapped the spark plug wires like this:swapplugwires [ECMTuning - wiki]BUT THE INJECTORS STILL ARENT FIRING!!The eprom came out of a good running car, so thats for sure not the problem. I just cant think of what else it could be.

The problem is they break alot! And end up sitting in a garage not getting driven.

I just tested the injector wires for continuity, and there is definitely none when cranking.A quick visual inspection of the wires leads me to believe that I probably need a new ecu......:cry:thanks for all your help everybody!Illl go throw in my eprom ecu probably a bit later and...

You are like my idol right now. I already tested the injector resistances and they all checked out, so ill check for continuity like you said.

But its getting spark and doesnt the ecu get the signal for the spark from the cps and cas too?Couldnt it be a bad ect too? Anyone know how to test an ect?

yeah, thats kinda what I was thinking too, but I just dont know how to test the Cam position sensor. Or Crank angle sensor for that matter.

anyone at all?

I DONT drive a dsm in MN. Im sure you all know how that goes...:cry:

Fuel is being pumped to the rail.Anyone know what exactly is needed to fire the injectors?The injectors are getting 14v with the key on and engine not running, but they just arent firing for whatever reason.

injector resistances are around 2.5 ohms for each one. Also there are no CELS.

So my car isnt starting after a rebuild. Its sparking just fine. But not getting fuel into the cylinders.I got it to run on carb cleaner.I checked that everything was wired up, and its all good. Fuel is getting to the rail for sure. The injectors are getting 14v with the key on but not...

anyone have any idea what a bad "als control" might mean?I just bought a parts car, and it had an extra eprom ecu. But the guy told me that something was bad in it. Some one wrote "als control bad" on it.It is a 2g eprom ecu, so I want to fix it.So any help would be appreciated...

awesome.Thanks a lot.Ill have to check when I get home.

Ive got too many engine parts lying around in my garage!!I have a few flywheels from turbo dsm's. One is from a JDM engine, at least one is from a gst and i have at least one from an awd. All of them are from 2g's.My problem is, im almost done with my engine rebuild, for my gst and I...

well actually, a mounting tab broke off on the sensor when I was putting it back on!!Down over torque it like i did!!After replacing it, it idled more consistently but still a bit high, with the BISS screw adjusted almost all the way down.But then I sold the car, so thanks for all...

anyone?

well I cleaned the ISC, and it wasnt that dirty but it definitly made a difference.FOr about 30 mins, it drove and idled perfectly fine, and then it started acting up again!!When I cleaned, I just used some carb cleaner, and a rag. SHould I just clean it again and try to be more thurough?

Well I checked over all the connections, and I found that the little wire that clips onto the starter was disconnected!!So that was an easy fix!Thanks alot luv2rallye!!

Wow!Thanks alot, ill test all that either later today after studying for my test tomorrow, or ill do it tomorrow.Thanks alot man!Ill get back to you guys, and let you know what it was!