Driven normally, it just plows really bad. If I thrash it hard enough, there is a chance I might unload the inside front enough to overcome traction there, but here's the catch: In order to initiate the right set of events to make the car turn, I need to turn the steering wheel much further than...
Oops, I made it sound like I worked on the tranny.
I took it out of the car for a new clutch and saw that the output shaft going to the x-fer case was badly worn, so I took it to Beyond Redline (a shop in Green Bay, WI) to have the whole trans looked at and upgraded for general toughness. It got...
My car was pretty well sorted and handling was very neutral before I put in the front LSD, but now it won't turn even in at parking lot speeds. I've autocrossed it twice with the new diff and it understeered bad unless I somehow flung the car over hard enough to nearly lift the inside front so...
I've been having phantom knock issues during my last tuning attempt (turns out I had a boost leak, a badly leaking exhaust mani gasket and bad fuel.) Even so, the IC out was cool to the touch on the dyno and water temps stayed under 190 deg. I'd say this setup is working pretty good.I may...
I'm thinking a 4-spider center with VC and a torsen up front would be a good start for road coarse.
What say those with drive-line experience?
Is there such a thing as a one-way clutch-type front diff for DSMs? That might be neat as well...
No, I didn't know anything about proper ducting until sometime after I went to the big side mount.
Then came the aero experimentation that became the "critter splitter".
This IC setup comes from a desire to keep using the splitter to best effect.Edit: some more pics.
Hmmm....
What you say makes perfect sense, so I will make the WG hole larger.
It's too bad the housing was already ported for maximum flow to the turbine.
Now there's very little material left to direct flow to the WG opening... I hope this doesn't come back to haunt me.
For the time being, I'm running a hose directly from a Dejon compressor outlet elbow to the bottom port on the MVS.
As for porting, I got a little skittish about removing all that metal. That EVO III housing is cast so thin, I felt as though I might grind right through it if I made it the way I...
Hello folks,
I'm trying to run about 16psi, but I can't seem to manage it
even with the setup you see below.
At some point I'd like to safely remove the restrictor I have in
the exhaust. When I pull the restrictor out at present, it
creeps to 25psi at 3200rpm and shows every indication...
I'm guessing that the Hyundai G4CP intake manifold would go great with my setup if I wanted to make it breathe better at somewhat higher revs...in fact it's too easy of a mod to ignore: I'm gonna buy one and try it even though it might be the wrong direction.Well, 'till next season. I'm going...
Here is the current dyno graph for the above stated stroker.The 2G head and intake manifold was chosen to keep gas velocity up at lower revs much like a Cyclone manifold does... I don't remember why my shop steered me away from my old Cyclone setup *shrugs*.I should mention that the car...
I really like the idea of a GT28R...I might do that later. Right now I'm running an FP HTA68 which I'm told is like a refined Evo III 16G. Does that qualify (to your way of thinking) as a small turbo?I never thought any body would suggest stock cams for a stroker but heck, I still have 'em so...
Hello all,
I just dropped a 2.3L stroker in my car and am curious about cam choices.My setup:
2.3L stroker, 8.5:1 pistons, 2G head, +1mm valves, bee hive springs, port matched 2G intake manifold, BC stage II cams (like 272), adjustable cam wheels, HTA68 turbo. <= notice shrimpy turbo...
I don't have a good reason for this, but I've always tried to keep things reversible.
I guess I'm afraid my idea will be half baked and I'll wreck something real good.
I don't even know what the Street Modified class rules are in this regard, I'll have to check. I will say that I still drive...
Here are some pics of what I have to work with right now:The splitter is three inches lower than the bottom of the radiator brace.
I was thinking of getting a 6"Hx4.5"Dx24"W IC core to put down on the splitter and cut out the 'ramp' leading up to the radiator brace to allow air flow under...
What I do with my car:
I like to attend track days and auto-x events.
I don't like race gas, meth injection, NOS or any other expensive crap I need to refill all the time.The problem:
My big Dejon SMIC heat soaks at around 15psi on most days and I really don't want an FMIC. I already...
If your going to build on the 2.0L block anyway, you could go N/A with good results.
Get a 2.4L crank, cams, some 10:1 pistons and some sort of engine management to make it all play nice.
Funny you should say that. I was accused of nailing a small animal at Road America because of that front end (they called it the critter splitter) and some chick at an auto-X bonked her ankle on it while it was parked.
It dangerous!
I had it done through a shop here in Wisconsin.
Also I had no idea who was really doing it 'till I got the part back and read the label on it.I'll know better for next time.
ImportsTurboTURBOGALLERYThe material chosen (Inconel foil) is a super alloy that wont deteriorate when placed very close to stuff that gets way too hot.To my eyes, the pros are:
1. light weight compared to welded stainless shields.
2. Very complete: very few spots left bare.
3. No reason...
I sort of denied your reasoning for a while. The result is the ducting was the last cooling mod I did...I have no choice but to agree now.
It works reeeaaally good.
Thank you sir!
At the moment, I have only one more pic to show the oil cooler ducting.The pic in post #52 shows a duct welded directly to a Dejon big SMIC.I bought a Millermatic 180 just to do this job.
I use a FAL (flex a lite) 12" pair of ducted fans on a Fluidyne rad, Evans waterless coolant, 180 deg thermostat, exhaust vent on hood aaaand some crazy lookin' scoop thingies up front...I can't do anything to get the temps above 195 deg when the fans are on.
I'm 6'3" and can barely reach the steering wheel with a helmet on.
I've still got stock seats in my 1G and would love to change them out mainly to get a better seating position. Other concerns include weight, ability to use proper harnesses and sliders would sure be nice.
Ball bearings would make for better spool if the turbos in question had similar flowing compressors. As far as I can tell, the DSM68 is a big 16G with a fancy compressor wheel in it and should be thought of as a next generation E316G in terms of performance. ie: An E316G with 10% more flow and a...
After much thought and reading, I believe toofast82 and Dallas J are correct: Stop ####y-footin' around and just stroke the darn thing.So there it is, the solution is a DSM68 HTA turbo and a 2.3L short block.Thanks again for good advice.
My NT-01s warm up quick enough to use for auto-x, wear very slow and have plenty of grip.
I've been running the same set for three years now and might queeze a few more sessions out of 'em.
If can't afford dedicated auto-x AND track day tires, NT-01s are a good choice.
I cut the end of the LCA off and welded a threaded socket in so I could use the howe BJ. The pivot in relation to the LCA might be a little lower, but I didn't mean for that to happen AND it just doesn't matter. What DOES matter is that the new BJ pivot is lower in relation to the LCA inner...
The main advantage of these coatings to me is it looks good and keeps rust under control when you cover the hot bits with real insulators like inconel foil.I'm sure this ceramic stuff is very impressive, but it IS making full contact with the offending part (no low-density barrier like air)...
Right this minute I'm on a ship with very slow internet (6-7kps) so searching for compatability info is barely possible. *Sigh*6-bolt stroker(100mm,4G64)crank comes in...
88 Galant
92 Colt vista
89-91 Hyundai Sonata
89-91 Mitsubishi Mightymax
90-91 Mitsubishi L200
90-91 Ram 50...
Yes, a 2.4L would be sooooo sexy... but where the heck does a guy find a block?
It seems they're a bit hard to come by in my area and some of them don't fit a DSM bell housing...and I don't know how to tell if I'm getting something that'll work.
A 2.3L doesn't sound like an option 'cause they...
In Street Mod, the class I run in, I have to stick with the same make (Mitsu) of motor block and head, any other mod goes I'm pretty sure.Now I just need to find a way to wedge the 1800HP fourteen cylinder radial engine from the Mitsubishi Zero (WWII warbird) between the wheels...no wait...
We are thinking the same thought: I have a Cyclone mani installed and working via DSMlink V2.
That and I should probably look into changing the cams from Comp 264 intake / BC stage 2 exhaust to HKS 264 intake and exhaust...I'm told that kind of mismatch was a bad idea.
Ah well...
I suppose cost must be consitered after all: I spent $650 to have a new FP manifold wrapped in two layers of inconel and I can't imagine tossing that aside.
I was gonna use the FP mani even with the Garrett turbos if one of those was chosen with the help of an adapter plate (upon...
No doubt for power other turbos can be had for less, but I'm just dying for boost at 2500rpm while getting around 280-300awhp.Sigh, I know it would be a pain to install, but in the name of competition I'll do some silly things...and it DOES look like the ultimate for my purpose...assuming...