LSD!!!considering the tires you ran i doubt all 4 were slipping for longer than a hair of a second.. especially at 100mph

hmmm done a boost leak test lately? boost shouldn't drop too much from 6 to 7k rpm.

Get MMCd 1.8+, OBD Gauge and Palmenstein are the most un-userfriendly trash logging programs I've ever used.

Update: I replaced the hose and rad cap, and no more overheating. The coolant system is now pressurizing normally and is sucking up overflow instead of dumping it to the ground.

I used aluminum piping for the re-circ hose and it made it quite a bit louder. The total cost was $11, and I cut 2 pieces off the stock hose for couplers.

^^ I believe you are bang on in both cases. The reason I was not getting any heat through the vents was low coolant... very low! I found out there was a small hole in the hose that goes from the thermostat housing to the overflow bottle. Which is just as bad as having a crappy rad cap. So what...

I wouldn't recommend doing timing yourself unless you are willing to risk a head rebuild.Mine cost around $1000 (Canadian) for everything, which was:- cam seals - balance shaft belt - balance shaft pulley - hydraulic tensioner & pulley - OEM timing belt - water pump was fairly new...

Update: This is another really weird thing. So far since I've installed the new thermostat and changed the coolant, every morning when open the rad cap there is NO coolant in the upper hose at all. And the overflow bottle is really high, way above the full line. I have been pumping out enough...

OH BTW, the thermostat I put in opens at 71*C rather than the stock 88*C. I like to run a cooler thermostat in the summer.

1) I think that relocation kit makes it almost harder to work on than the stock location (you just have to remove the fan).2) 165A is a little excessive. Here in Canada, our talons came with 90A alternators. You could order an OEM one from here. Of course you'll want to return your dead...

This is a very strange problem, and couldn't really find a more appropriate forum to post in, so here goes:About a month ago my thermostat failed open, so I've been driving for a while with no thermostat. No problems, just takes forever to warm up. I drained all the coolant, put in a new...

^^ That's basically it. Don't use gobs of it and wait the proper time for curing and it should be fine. I drove mine after 4 hours, and 20 in/hg of vacuum was enough to suck up the still-wet rtv into the BPV. You should be using some type of gasket dressing (like he said, a thin layer of RTV on...

Thanks, I did manage to get all of the gasket maker out of that hole and the bypass is re-circing normally again. :thumb:

Go into MMCd, if its currently in log mode, click "DONE" which takes you back to the log review screen. From there click the MMCd tab at the top of the screen, then click "Preferences." One option with "Mode" will likely be set to "3/S" which you'll want to change to "DSM."

Yeah, but that is some nasty lag! Looks like he stomps the pedal at 2900 rpm and doesn't get full spool until 3900. In 3rd gear he should be getting full spool at 3000rpm on a small 16g with 2g compression.

Glad to hear it worked out, I also suffered a bad cable once, it annoyed me until I just tried a new cable. Logger cables often get stuffed into strange positions (from car installs) and get shorted out quickly.

Yeah your timing is taking a major dive at 4200 rpm. But your total TIMA is good, 18 degrees at redline. :thumb:

Did you check your fuse panel under the dash? I still doubt its a fuse if they are turning back on once in a while. The fact that braking made them come back on makes me think you may have some wiring that may be hanging down and touching the brake pedal assembly.. or that the negative G's...

There is no way lifter tick should be showing 40 counts of knock unless your sensor is toast. BTW what type of fuel are you filling up with?

I am running serial. It's really odd for a Dell not to have a serial connector, my computer is a Dell too. Are you making sure HotSync is running on the PC before you try to press the hotsync button?

Race gas doesn't have to be expensive. Buy 20 litres of c10 (will probably cost you around $2.75 USD per litre) when your tank is almost empty. I recently did that and it cleared up a lot of stress I had over knock numbers.

A log would help alot more, please post a log with RPM, TIMA, KNCK, INJD, TPS, & O2-F (o2 can tell us a lot).

Neither... I had a phantom knock issue even with a new knock sensor, so I decided to kill 2 birds with 1 stone. Filled up my tank with c11 :DDidn't turn the boost down or install the pump yet. I have my logger set to beep at 5000rpm, so I'm not doing any high rpm shifting... except for a...

You don't need any software for the palm, but you will need some software for your PC. If you visit http://www.palmone.com and download Palm Desktop for your PC, it will come with a little program called HotSync. You need to run hotsync on your pc first, right click the icon in the system tray...

which cable are you talking about here? The logger cable that plugs into your diagnostic port on your car? or the serial cable that plugs into the palm?

will do :thumb:...and thanks for pointing out that dip in o2 volts, I wouldn't have seen at as a sign I'm outflowing the pump.

Getting that knock sensor out is a royal pain in the ass unless you have a 24mm stubby crescent wrench and a skinny long arm :) BTW: Unhook your negative terminal on the battery when taking out the knock sensor, because I somehow shorted something out with my wrench down there and sparks flew...

I can get gains by turning the boost down 1psi and tuning with an safc. What's not recommended is what you're going to do, which is "hack tune" by leaning out the safc on bigger injectors. You'll get knock all over the place by doing that, your best bet is it keep the SAFC, but get an eprom with...

I know the 190 has the ability to overrun the stock fpr. I do already have a power wire going into my hatch where an amp is wired. I may just run another wire from the battery to the same spot in the hatch and down through the spare tire floor, and use the stock ground. With the relay inline of...

Also make sure your in your MMCd Preferences you have the mode set to "DSM" as the other mode interperates the timing signal differently from the ECU (and give you a different reading). But since you say it idles around 10, it probably already is in DSM mode.

I don't think you'd see a crack in a perfectly smooth curve.

yeah adding fuel won't do it, as I was peaking at 16psi and leveling out at 15psi which is too much air for stock fuel delivery (the 190lph is not in the car yet).

Well I did an oil change and used 10w40 amsoil instead of the 5w30 that was in there from the winter still. The thicker oil seemed to have helped things, here's a log right after the oil change:TPS TIMA O2-R RPM KNCK INJD 12.5% 40° 0.08V 3594 0 5 16.5% 40° 0.06V 3563 0 5 27.5% 40° 0.82V...

Interesting, I didn't know that. I will post a log soon.BTW I've read many of your posts, alot were really helpful.. Shouldn't you have a higher rep? :)

I'm really confused as to why I am getting knock at 70% injector duty. Usually this happens in my 3rd, 4th or 5th gear pulls past 4000 rpm WOT. I am getting counts as high as 25 when my injector duty cycle is only 70%. I'm running 13psi, stock fuel delivery, cone filter, non-hacked MAF.Any...

I was thinking of going with 2g pistons for the rebuild. If I go overbore I can't use stock 2g pistons can I?

What is the downside to doing it that way? If I'm going to rebuild eventually anyway...

if it left blue smoke behind you there are three possible causes.. 1) your rings are worn and oil is slipping past them. 2) your valve seals are gone and oil is slipping past them (do you get a puff of blue smoke on start up?) 3) your head gasket it blown at an oil passage.. probably the least...

Pictures of the tops of the pistons is not enough to determine the damage. You have to remove the pistons and look at the rings and ring seatings to see the real damage.

Lately it feels like I've just had a nasty lack of power. Cured all of my boost leaks except for the biggest one, which is blow-by (can't pressurize the system because it all escapes through the breather).So I did a compression test, the results are: 145, 140, 120 (150 wet), 135, (170 wet)...

UPDATE: I took the bov and realized that the tiny hole beside the BOV intake hole had sucked up tons of gasket maker while it was still semi-wet. :(I think this BOV might be toast now unless I can somehow get the hardened rubber out of there.

as noticable as a 250 lb man stuffed in the trunk on stock springs. (not a joke)

My stock BOV had a huge boost leak at the gasket, so I took the gasket off, razorbladed the surfaces until they were smooth again, and used gasket maker as my new gasket. Now when I blow off, its always a flutter.. compressor surge :( The only 2 things I can think of that may have changed are...

I got some of that frosted glass spray, and spray painted the plastic pieces that go behind the gauge faces themselves. It did help with the hotspotting, but not a whole lot.I'm currently in the middle of changing the needling backing from red to white, I'll post final results when I'm done.

IMO, I would stay away from those replica 16g's. The "16g GT" are a made-in-china turbo and many people have reported them failing prematurely. Go for the real mitsu evo3 16g.

Yes, you will have a HELL of a time trying to fit a 2.25" coupler to the TB if it has any kind of threading inside. Stretching those blue couplers I bought over the TB was impossible. I had to use an old rubber piece.

That also sounds like phantom knock. Get a logger setup and see what kind of knock count your ECU is seeing.

I was pretty sure the EGR system recycles hot exhaust gasses to warm the mixture for cold starts?

Actually the correct description for a "RAM" air intake is one where there is DIRECT outside airflow entering the air filter. Basically so you can see the air filter from the outside of the car. CAI is just a loosely based term, anyone and everyone who has an aftermarket intake calls it a "cold...