Just posted about the vrsf kit and jpipe. My jpipe is hitting my drivers side fan and regardless of how I move the turbo the fan is pretty much unusable. Would the ETS or punishment racing jpipe fix this? Also I do agree the VRSF jpipe is very hard to get a bolt in. I actually attached it...
Wow that's pretty crazy. I thought the vrsf fmic was a straight bolt on. I had to open the holes on the front of the car to fit the pipes through but other than tat I have seen anywhere else that it needed that big of a modification.
Trying to bolt my vrsf j pipe onto my evoIII 16g. I trimmed the shroud around the drivers side fan but in order for everything to bolt correctly including my oil drain, the jpipe hits against the fan in a way that it would be impossible for the fan to move. I worked on it for several hours...
You sure it's white and not a blueish tint? A blue tint means it's burning oil. Which would be more likely from what you stated about the oil in your exhaust manifold.
The feed is coming from the old pcv port, running to the catch can and back to the vent hole that is on the side of the valve cover. I've found a AN check valve from Russell on eBay so I'm going to get that. The catch can does have a breather filter on top since I no longer have the intake in...
Alrighty so after about an hour of searching I'm still not sure what to do. I'm making a catch can with -6an lines and stainless steel hosing. It will be vented with a small filter on top. My question is, do I need a check valve, and if so, where do I get one that will work with AN fittings?
Well the less moving parts I have the less that can go wrong. But I also have ecmlink and from what I've read it can mimic the ISC. Also this car is not my daily. Might only be out a couple of times a month in decent weather.
I've been searching and searching and searching. I haven't been able to find a thread where someone removed the ISC and if so how to do it and what to block off. I have ecmlink so if I remove the ISC I can mimic it with that correct? If I do remove the ISC what ports do I block off?
I have the tial wastegate shown in the picture. It attaches to the exhaust manifold. When I bought the car the precious owner had some dented rusty dump tube. My issue is since it faces straight down that any dump tube that I've come across will just point back towards the engine. Where am I...
There's a little black plastic piece on the bottom of the injectors. I've been looking at other pictures and I don't see them on there. Do I need the little black piece on the injectors?
Wow, it's really hard to tell what's going on and what you're asking but I assume you're asking if you need to change or rebuild your turbo? If there's that much oil going everywhere I would say it's a safe bet that something's wrong with the turbo. Did you pull your intake pipe off and see if...
So these are 650 injectors. I have new rubber pieces that seat on the bottom of the injector and go into the block. I also have the blue orings that go on top of the injectors. The other black piece that goes on top of the injector I reused from the old injector. They aren't the same size as...
Need to have my timing belt done because it's hella worn. I have an appt with c&w imports in Lancaster for August but I would like to have a shop that knows dsm's to do it. It would be nice if they know what to look for specifically and also know what else should be replaced at the same time.
I have a 92 ecu that has dsmlink installed already. The car I have is a 90 turbo. Can I send the 92 ecu to dsmlink and have them flash it to work with the 90 so I don't have to switch the ecu wiring etc.?
Is there an actual ground that connects to a post on the starter? I read on the forums that the ground is just the bolt that goes through the starter to the tranny.
Just bought a 90 rs turbo. Car needed a new battery so I got one and replaced it. Car still wouldn't start so I replaced the starter. I got in the car to start it, it clicked and then I lost all power to everything. I reached back in to check the starter connections and I have the red cap...
We attempted to pop it in second gear and it tried to start but then just died. I would say it barely got above 1000 rpms. To me it did seem a bit like the batter but the windows rolled down and all the interior lights came on and the seatbelt went back. It really did seem like a dead battery...
I'm weary about spending that much on any car that's not a necessity. The guy seems trustworthy and said that If he puts the starter in he will want his original asking price of 3800, which I wouldn't pay but maybe worth it to wait to see if that does fix the issue.
I've been looking for a nice 1g for a while and I finally came across one. The guy was originally asking 3800. He claims the car is pushing close to 500hp, has all maintenance, dsmlink v3 etc. I go to look at it and it doesn't start. It sounds like the starter is the issue, you can hear a...
Ok I got everything fixed with the o2 simulation. And i captured another log today. It's important to note that my AEM UEGO wideband says 15.0(stoich) at idle, but if you look at the log it's telling me I'm running pig rich. I can say for a fact that after sitting in my car, I smell like gas...
Haven't had a chance to try it on mine. Right now I have the white wire from the UEGO to the ECU Pin on the back of the ECU obviously. I think I also have narrowband simulation on with ECMLink. So thats probably why I'm not getting a good reading. I've been pretty busy lately so I'll have to...
Hey man, I've been there and done this with a SOHC Dodge Stealth. I had a great time fabbing everything up making my own exhaust blah blah blah. But when it came to get everything to work together, all the tuning that is necessary, not to mention you're going to be looking at one off parts for...
Take a punch with a spade edge and a hammer and beat them off. I had a stealth back in the day that had 1 lock lug on it but I didn't have the key. So I had to take a punch and beat it off. Took a little while but I think it would be easier than cutting your wheel off.
It seems to be that. Like I said I removed the brake booster hose from the Intake manifold and it still went lean. There's no way it's a vacuum leak. I think it's the battery, like I said I've had to jump it 4 or 5 times now.
If I hold the pedal down hard it goes lean. I just don't understand why if the vacuum source is off it still goes lean. My battery is pretty weak. If I turn my lights on the car will go a little leaner.
Yes. But that still doesn't answer the question as to why with the vacuum line off the brake booster it would still go lean. I understand if there is a leak that it would make it go lean, but I eliminated the source and it still does it. I'm starting to think it might be electrical or a bad...
Like the title says. I pump my brakes with the car on, sitting in the driveway, I can peg the Wideband gauge to the red, completely off the charts lean. I disconnected the hose from the intake manifold that runs to the brake booster. I capped the intake manifold nipple and pumped the brakes...
I have the white wire from the UEGO connected to the ECU Pin. But when I connected the ECMLink it still read 0.05v. I activated the narrowband simulation with ECMLink but I don't understand why UEGO isn't affecting the narrowband. Also, maybe you can help me understand why if I pump my brakes...
Ok, so i get the white wire from the UEGO to the ECU o2 input (pin 4.) In my original post Finding the o2 sensor wire. What plugs into this? Does the blue wire from the UEGO plug into this and help log through ECMLink?
Yea I noticed that too. Right now I just can't pin point the problem of my car going lean when I hit the brakes. Could a bad battery be the cause of it? I did notice that when I turn my headlights on that it will actually lean the car out also.
Here is my first log. I'm having a hell of a time trying to get this car running correctly, and unfortunately I really don't know what I'm looking at in this log. Help is very much appreciated. Car is stock except for a big FMIC. I have a wideband. Another issue that I'm having is when I...
Yea I know that when you left off the throttle that the car goes lean. That's fine. My issue is that if I'm I sit and pump my brakes, I can make the car go completely lean. Off the charts lean on my wide band. I'm assuming it's a boost leak, I just didn't know if anyone had specific...
When I brake hard, or several times in a row, the AFR gauge goes completely to the red. I'm assuming it's a boost leak. Wondering if there was a specific spot or a specific issue others have run into with this.
Don't be drawn in by the mods. Usually it's more of a pain in the butt than it's worth. If he's got documentation of everything and proof of who installed it than it might be worth the gamble. But more than likely what happened was he threw all the stuff on and then couldn't get it to run...
Yea if the key wasn't going to work I would have expected it to work this way. There was only one key. The only problem is that the car is not on the road at this time. So I would have to go back and get a new one. Why would it work in the ignition but not the doors?
I already had a replacement made but I only had one key that did everything. This replacement key only starts the car. I don't really understand why it's like this. I tried both driver and passenger side and it won't unlock, but it starts the car just fine. What should I do? I went to the...