you could always have the new flange welded along the seam where it meets the current exhaust manifold flange, eliminating the need for more than one gasket.

Why not just use another exhaust manifold flange as a spacer? Places like RRE or other fabrication shops will likely have them in stock.http://www.roadraceengineering.com/evo8-flangesandgaskets.htm

The gaskets were on properly, but, the problem was that the surfaces were not by any means flat. This was most likely caused by using an abrasive disk on an angle die grinder to clean off old gasket material. This was actually my original suspicion.Once i started sanding the surfaces, it was...

Previous owner was using rtv to seal the throttle body to the intake manifold. After being unable to get the throttle body to seal with the gaskets on the last manifold, i chalked it up to a warped mounting surface and opted to swap the manifold for a known good manifold; i also picked up new...

If it was running before without any overheating issues, you should definitely check the to make sure you still have coolant. If you weren't paying much attention to the car, a small leak could've released a large amount of coolant over time.Did you check the tension on the water pump belt?

The head gasket is a definite possibility, but, you should do some basic troubleshooting before jumping to conclusions.Does the car have adequate coolant? Are you seeing any leaks under the car at all?Have you changed the thermostat? Thermostats are cheap (<$30), and, can cause over...

And I should only need one when installing the fiav bypass plate, correct?

Does anyone know thje part number for the gasket that goes between the upper and lower part of the throttle body?I believe it may be MD614406, but, can anyone confirm this?

Which color RTV? Even on the side with the rubber gasket?

LOL, i thought the exact same thing! But, i already ordered the plate before i stumbled across that write-up and its more of a hassle to send it back (and would probably cost me 1/4 of the original purchase price anyway).Years ago, i had bypassed the FIAV with a plate made from an aluminum...

This is a great link!As much as i'd love to completely block off and delete the entire bottom half of the throttle body, i'm concerned about an inconsistent idle. At least by bypassing the FIAV, i can still retain the ISC, which should help to alleviate an inconsistent idle.TThough it...

Thanks for the clarification! :)

That link doesnt explicitly state if he is performing a bypass or a total blockoff (or, maybe i misinterpreted it).Being that im going to be using the FIAV "bypass" plate, should i close that valve?Also, is there a link on vfaq that explains the bypass process? I Thought there use to...

So, the plate is really unnecessary? And, i suppose closing that valve and also installing the bypass plate is okay too?

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-intake-exhaust/320951-fiav-adjustment-disable.htmlIn the above link, the author is turning a dial (located under the Freeze plug) and is seemingly not using a FIAV bypass. If i use this plate, do i still need to close the valve which the author cites?

Okay, so, even if i plan on using the FIAV bypass that i purchased, should i still remove the freeze plug and turn that know until it is completely closed?

what is the difference between using the blockoff plate and using this free mod:http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-intake-exhaust/320951-fiav-adjustment-disable.htmlIs the plate even necessary? If not, what is the point of buying/installing the plate?

So, there are actually no passages anywhere on the mating surfaces themselves?

I could have sworn I've seen metal throttle body gaskets.My one gripe regarding RTV is the clean up after removing any part. It can be a serious PIA to get those RTV'ed surfaces clean again.

Is the OEM gasket between the intake manifold and the throttle body metal or paper?

In regard to clogged passages, are there any in particular on the throttle body that i really need to be concerned about?Those are some seriously expensive TB gaskets!

I have used RTV with good success in the past. However, during my "research", i found that it was not recommended.I guess my major concern is that the RTV may clog important holes of passages. Is this something i should be concerned with?

So, where did you buy that material?

Isn't a file too aggressive? I'm just asking because i keep reading horror stories about how people use the OEM gaskets and still have small leaks.

Im concerned that the mating surface on the intake manifold may not be perfectly flat. And, i also see a small grove or scrape in the mating surface of the intake manifold (where the throttle body meets the manifold).My question is: Should i use rtv or get the gaskets from the local...

This is probably a stupid question, but, id rather be sure.Im tapping my j-pipe for a dedicated boost source for my manual boost controller and the fittings i got are these: McMaster-Carrare these too big? will they cause a problem? Should i get a smaller fitting before i weld this in?

with the dowel pins at 12 o'clock, the cam timing marks are now sitting at 9 and 3. This is not always the case, as i had to turn the engine over a few times to get it this way?What is that about?

okay, im redoing it now just to make sure.just out of curiosity, once i bring the engine to top dead center, the dowel pins on the cams are pointing to the 12 o'clock position.Now, the timing marks themselves on the cam gears arent at 9 and 3 o'clock? is that normal? Will those always...

Dowel Pins?

It cranks, but, it definitely does have a sputter during the cranking...Like it wants to start but cant.I wasnt sure how to check if it was 180* out? How would i go about this?

Oliver, That was indeed one of the things that i has checked earlier. But, that wasn't it either. At this point i am at a complete loss!This seems odd?

ive checked and rechecked everything, and, it seems as though i have all of the plugs plugged in.Plus, it gets fuel, spark and cranks. This couldnt happen if i missed a major plug/connection and/or a ground.I seriously think it has something to do with the 1G cas. It ran before with it...

Just replaced the head gasket and now i cant get the car (1995 tsi awd) to start!I have switched the firing order of the plugs/ wires to accomodate the 1g cas. Also, i have hit the "invert CAS" button in dsmlink.It has spark and is getting fuel.There is a topic on here Showing all...

I live near broughers and have used them on numerous occasions. Actually, i just had them resurface my head for me.They know engines and do great work! I know he has a fairly good dsm following, as i know of at least 3 other guys who have had broughers build their engines!And, price...

i went through e-bay...i think i got it for 104 shipped

MLS head gaskets in general are meant for near perfect mating surfaces, it is not brand specific. Like i said, plenty of people run an oem composite gasket with some arp head studs and have excellent results

I would really choose carefully in regards to a new head gasket. Although a cometic MLS gasket may seem like a great addition, it can be a potential headache! These gaskets are meant for perfectly flat surfaces, meaning that unless both the block and head are going to be machine perfectly, it...

Heres a picture of mine

The simplest indicator of a leaking head gasket is that despite having a good radiator cap and overflow hose to the overflow bottle that properly allows coolant to be pulled back into the engine as the engine cools, not all of the coolant that was pushed out is pulled back in. Do the following...

hard to tell...What makes you think it isnt "all the way on"?

I believe the results of a compression test are going to be negligible, as a compression test will only reveal gross leaks in the head gasket. Assuming that you have a good radiator cap and properly set up/sealed overflow bottle (which allows coolant to be sucked back into the engine as the...

I personally think the '95 talon rear end is sexy, especially the sickle spoiler!

yeah, get rid of the wing, it stands out too much. get the stock '95 wing...has a much more sleek look!

engine management is probably on of the most important areas you can address...I would suggest doing a little research and picking up something... Good engine management will be more beneficial than any other mod... What turbo are you considering

Do you plan on doing the rewire for the fuel pump? What about a fuel pressure regulator? Also, what are you planning as far as engine management?

If he goes with a larger turbo he will need fuel mods (pump, rewire, injectors, fpr) and engine management well before he needs the FMIC. The FMIC, while nice to have, is not a necessity... Engine management is important. He will be able to identify and control knock, not to mention, tune for...

You will beable to get more out of any mod after once you get engine management.I agree, some sort of engine management should be considered...Like i said earlier, once you start upgrading, you are going to need a way to take control of the car. Dsmlink might not be the best choice at...

Truthfully, im not really sure how far the stock t25 will take you...Check out this link though, it has some good info on different turbos and some flow maps:Turbo ComparisonI think if your considering a turbo upgrade, the common response will be to go with either the 14b or 16g. The 14b...

A turbo is definitely an option to entertain. But, just remember, if your going to do it properly (assuming you choose something larger than the 14b), your likely going to need more fuel (injectors/pump) and a way to manage the injectors (safc/safc II, etc)

It is the tan plug from what i can remember...Here are some helpful links:Visual Frequently Answered Questions - Home Page Engine Timing