Shootout 2007. First one I had been to since 2000. Went on a whim, couldn't get a hotel room for the event. Saturday night, it starts raining like hell, somehow Curt had heard that me and my two buddies who were with me didn't have a room. Told me to come chill in his room and have a couple...
This is cool.I am also working on a similar solution utilizing the 7" Pi Foundation touch screen, with a 3d printed bezel that will snap directly in place of the radio in a 1g. It will require either a radio relocation or delete though. I am planning on relocating the radio to the glove...
I am a member of the Steel City Musclecars forum local to Pittsburgh, and they are hosting a track rental May 6th at Keystone raceway outside of Pittsburgh.There are still available spots. ALL MAKES AND MODELS WELCOME!67 bucks by paypal to sign up for as many passes as you can imagine.At...
I as well purchased the 8" "Spoolinator" with extra weight from Mike @ sinister for my stock block, FP Black setup.I haven't received it yet (supposed to ship in the next couple days) and the car is still a manual trans, but all in time. I think it is the best option for stall and top end...
I don't see names I don't recognize on the list on the website. Make sure they know that they MUST prepay. No payments are going to be accepted at the track.
Hi guys, I thought some of you other guys might want to join us.I am a member of the site www.steelcitymusclecars.com and we are putting together a track rental on Sunday, October 25th, from 12-5pm. All makes and models are welcome (we have at least 4 DSM's and 2 GTR's coming from the import...
Hi guys, I thought some of you other guys might want to join us.I am a member of the site www.steelcitymusclecars.com and we are putting together a track rental on Sunday, October 25th, from 12-5pm. All makes and models are welcome (we have at least 4 DSM's and 2 GTR's coming from the import...
I respectfully disagree.However... my car has two VERY light coats of glossifier on it, in order to get it close to the matte finish of the factory spoiler.Came out VERY good, with a barely noticeable texture, but that was MY fault due to technique. I simply did it wrong.BUT.I did not...
Just to update this. FP lowered their pricing on the red, green, and black turbos. So i bought a black instead of attempting to build one of these on a budget.
The stock bushing is part number MB580253. You can order them from JNZ tuning.http://www.jnztuning.com/product_info.php?cPath=21_30_113&products_id=3465
The reasoning behind the upgraded sidemounts back in the day was to remain stock appearing, or to simply help out the budget.With the affordable FMIC's on the market today, it really doesn't make a whole lot of sense to upgrade the SMIC, IMHO.
Not only that, but as pressure increases, pump flow reduces. So a wally 255HP @ 100psi will only flow 195LPH, and the fuel pressure regulator will increase that 100PSI 1-1 with boost, further diminishing flow.I usually don't make blanket statements like this, but, no, nobody has done this for...
I have read some things on line about inlet restrictors causing the turbo to overspin due to trying to make power in those areas where the compressor is just too choked off. Something to watch out for, especially when going to a larger turbo.
Perhaps the vacuum line was cracked before the rebuild and this line was replaced? This could cause a slight overboost situation.I am assuming this is an aftermarket gauge as well. If it was the factory gauge, a boost leak will cause it to read high.
I like having a reasonably rare car in my area. Nobody knows what the heck it is anymore, and the people that do used to have one, or still have one in some state of build. The NT's are pretty much going away now and the only ones left on the road are either clapped out junk, or nice ones.I...
You have something inside your coolant system. It does sound like someone used a copper based stop-leak product in this car at some time (Yay)...I would replace the heater core and remove the radiator to flush it out as THOROUGHLY as possible with some sort of radiator flush solution.I...
When you change the O ring in the picture above (which is 99.5% the problem) make sure you clean up all the threads and use RED loctite on the stud.ONLY TORQUE TO 31 FT LBS.24mm deep well socket required.
Edit: Nevermind... read that wrongI would suspect the valves are the issue at this point. Was a valve job done? If it was, most likely the seats were machined and the valve stems were not, this would make the valves too long, and would cause this issue.Either that or the seats are...
My question is where are the BOLTS that should be holding the hatch on at the top!I have a good condition hatch, (with glass) but I am a LONG way away from Indiana.
I just bought one on Amazon. It was plastic and came with the vent tube, grommets, and mounting hardware.http://www.amazon.com/NOCO-HM424-Sealed-Battery-Box/dp/B006VU5W92
Ok.1. When you ground the timing connector, it will stay at 5, it will move around when disconnected.2. are you on a maf? If so, your maf compensation is off, and this is causing your elevated airflowperrev number.
Could very well be v3 Lite, but it is definitely a v3 variant.Easiest way to check is to hook it up and connect. It will tell you what version in the device status area of link after connected.
You can't set timing on a DSM with an adjustable timing light. They don't read properly on a waste spark ignition system. You need to set your timing with a non-adjustable timing light!
That has to be cooking the crap out of your alternator. I was running an external dump that I had to modify due to LICP clearance and started to melt the wires going to the alternator in short order. A friend of mine actually melted the bottom of his radiator doing the exact same thing.
Did you ground the timing connector in link while adjusting your base timing?Did you check your crank sprocket on the timing belt to make sure its not off there either?
If I were you I would give all your timing components/CAS/etc/etc/etc a GOOD once over. There is NO way you can really be running almost 40* of timing and not knocking on pump gas.Most guys on e85 dont get past 22-25 degrees of advance, and when they do, it sometimes results in the head...
Yes, increased ignition timing creates higher EGT's and leads to engine destroying detonation because the cylinder is too hot and the gasoline ignites before it is supposed to.
I am sure it did haul, more timing = more power (generally), but timing that high is straight dangerous.if WBfactor = 0 and you are reading 13.5AFR, that means that you are targeting 13.5afr.
I will need a log to see what's up with the AFR's being off at idle. Is it link reporting the 13.5, or is it your actual wideband display?I looked at that log in the other thread. Holy crap.... its reading 38 degrees of timing @ 7000 rpm.Are you sure your base timing is correct at 5*BTDC?
The biggest thing you need to do is calibrate your maf compensation. Getting the maf calibrated is the most important thing you need to worry about right now.Yes, I am certain this is what is going on with the timing sliders... Let me elaborate:at 3,000 RPM you have the timing slider @ 14*...