So I've had this issue ever since doing a battery relocation to the rear. I have some 0 gauge wiring from the battery to distribution block under the hood, and another straight to the alternator. I have a 165A alternator, but still, it only wants to charge between around 12.5-12.7 volts or so. I...

I have it back together and can mark this thread as resolved. It runs now. Fired right up. Was definitely a pain (because I suck at electrical) but it's good now. Thanks again y'all.P.S. I'll be referring back to this one a lot I'm sure, for the diagrams and such when it's needed. So this one...

I honestly don't know what you mean when you say conductivity. You mean like continuity?Had to go to my local salvage yard and get a pigtail to wire in. Out at the beach with parents and my kids for dinner but probably tackle this later tonight or in the morning. 🤞

I FINALLY figured this crap out. I apparently had the crank sensor wiring pinched between the cylinder head and my intake manifold. Shew!!! Now I can repair it and move on!!! Thanks y'all!!!

I'm gonna check it out more tomorrow. I just haven't been in the mood today. It's basically a revolving door of problems. Fix one problem, another pops up and can't drive the dang car. I'll post back up when I have some results though I guess.

Mind telling me what color wires I'm looking at please? I'm not the greatest at reading these.

Well, I'm trying to check anyway. But don't know which wires to check for. I don't have a proper wiring diagram I don't believe, unless one of the ones listed above would be it.I did hook one lead from my meter to the positive side of where the 20a would go. Checked all 8 wires at the mpi and...

Yes sir, that's the one. Just have to figure out the wiring but guess I'll be working on it.

I'm not sure what all this 20A fusible link powers but I no longer have front and rear wiper motors. No radio, no antenna, and speakers are out.I have my IAC motor disconnected, TPS, front O2, PTU, the MPI relay, and even the ECU is disconnected.This video is with all that disconnected...

It is. But if I disconnect it, I won't know how to test to see if that's the issue without blowing fuses.The front O2 is in place anyway. Not the rear.

I have a Chilton manual but nowhere in there do I see a 20A fusible link in their wiring diagrams. Some diagrams say fusible link but not the amp. But most of them say 30A. I've tested my MPI relay and it clicks. Inspected my ecu and it appears to be good (shew!!!). I have a power probe that I...

Any update on this???

So I'm STILL dealing with this stupid issue. I've just had it on the back burner cause I had to rebuild my engine and transmission and I've just been disconnecting the battery negative. But engine is in and time to get this electrical garbage figured out.So I feel that the wire that's going...

I had to just go to the parts store and find one that matched as close as possible and the trimmed to shorten it. No idea what hose it even was. Someone else might be able to give a better answer.

Was hoping to report back with some good news tonight but I had two issues when I took the car out for a test drive. One, the speedo isn't working so have to figure that out. Kept being limited to around 4-5k rpm so had to shut off the forced four and rely on my Kiggly blue wire mod and B&M...

I have no idea really what I'm even looking at but I'll try them out. Lol. I was shifting right around 9k myself. Glad we have a clarification on "high rpm's".

Guess I'll either have to get home to open the program to get some sort of idea for what goes where unless you care to take a picture. Unsure if this would differ from 1g to 2g. Thank you though.

Checking in but anyone have any good settings for cruising? I've been down awhile but ready to go again. Previously I was having an issue where I was cruising in 2nd and if punched the throttle, I would get a 2 to 1 gear, and then back to 2nd. Not much fun.I was informed to upload the most...

If you have the stock O2 and it works, DON'T check that box. Let the stock sensor do its thing.

I'm not at home to look at logs and probably won't be able to for a good minute cause I'll have company over and going camping over the weekend.But I'll say that if it's not starting you might need more deadtime. The first log showed trims at 16 (from what memory recalls at my old age) which...

You're not logging your sensors like wideband, map, iat, etc. Need that stuff setup first. Your trims show lean but I can't remember if you're simulating the stock O2 or not.

What's the issue you're having?

Have to look at the logs. Can't remember. About to head out for new plugs though. And yeah, I'm sure this isn't a difficult situation to remedy. Just wasn't sure if anyone else was adjusting so was just curious more than anything.

Ecmlink. And yeah, it's working. Brand new and can hear it when the key is on as well. Just wasn't sure if I was the only one ever having to adjust it. Lol. Usually I hear of people with too high of idle.

So just wondering if anyone ever adjust the throttle stop to help with idle. I have a new isc, fiav blocked off on a 74mm S90 and I know it might take a minute to get it warmed up. But it takes WAAAY too long and will still stall sometimes (auto) after blipping the throttle. The biss is all the...

That is I 🤣

The one wire that got replaced due to being a bit too toasty in an engine fire a few years ago fixed my issue. Just have to button everything up now. Shew!!!Guess this post can be closed up now. Thanks y'all.

Yeah, everything else is getting power. But not sure if the noid light isn't flashing when I spin the cas housing because it needs the crank as well.I guess if I put it all back together again and it doesn't work, it's back to the drawing board. 🤞

Thank you! Been struggling to get that answer from anyone and didn't wanna put this sucker back together until I was sure.Oh, and 98 sensor with Kiggly 2 tooth trigger plate on the crank with 98 cas sensor there as well.

I finally fixed that wire, but when I rotate the cas by hand, no flash of the noid light I have in the #4 injector plug.I checked voltage and that's at 12 volts at the cas. But have 5 or 6 volts at the signal wire that goes to pin 88. With it unplugged from the cas. Can ANYONE tell me if this...

Had an engine fire a few years ago. After digging and digging, I found a wire that I missed for the power to the CAS that was pretty beat up looking. Gonna replace that portion and then hopefully be good to go. Crossing fingers.

ECU tested good. So back to the drawing board while I wait for its return.

Just an update but I've sent the ecu in today to get checked out.

Well, currently my thinking is that my ecu is just being funky and working when it wants to and pin 10 not firing at the moment.Pin 4 at the ptu has me scratching my head as well because I thought the voltage would vary and be sent TO the ecu. Not showing 6 volts from the ecu on that pin. Can...

No fire at pin 10 at the ecu now for some reason. This ecu recently came back from Ecmlink but anything else aside from the ecu that y'all can think of that would be causing the issue? Maybe that's why I'm pulling my hair out.

Thinking about it, would the MPI relay even be bad if the fuel pump is turning on when starting? And is it normal for Pin #4 (tach wire) at the PTU plug to have 6 volts with the PTU disconnected and just testing for voltage at the plug? Just trying to think of all possibilities to check for...

Thank you. I'll check that.

I'm so annoyed. I ran a wire from the ptu plug to the coil plug to bypass the original wiring for the coil that fires 1&4, and it FINALLY fired up for the first time with this new engine on all 4 cylinders. Great, now let me pull the bypass wire off, pull the intake manifold and injectors off...

Can't remember what exactly I tested at the wires and how. A bit sleepy. Needed a break today though before I decided to light it on fire. I'll report back though.

10 and 23 at the ecu

I used a test light and it flashes.

Back to stock ignition at the moment, but this has been an intermittent, REALLY annoying issue. Thinking I have a short somewhere. I have power at the ptu now, but no fire on 1&4. I've replaced the one coil. I've tried multiple ptu's. Tested the cas and crank sensors. Tested for signal at 10 &...

Replaced engine and then was only running on 2 cylinders on first start. Trying to diagnose and now for some reason, no power to the PTU at all. PTU has been tested and is good. Just no power going to it. Checked fuses under the hood. Fuel goes to the rail though so assuming MPI isn't the issue...

That's what I'm trying to find. I'll be looking now later when I get off work.

Right, but the problem I have is that I have 12 volts at the coil plug. But if I have to also connect a wire to the ptu that's 12 volts, I'm unable to find where that wire is that supplies 12 volts.

Heck, I'm getting feedback from everywhere I can to make sure I understand this crap. Lol. Not understanding it is how ecu's get burned up.....again. And I still don't know what to do with that power wire at the moment. Only place I'm getting 12 volts right now is at the coil plug. So guess I'm...

So I'm a bit confused on the black/white power wire at the moment. Right "now" on the coil plug, I have 12 volts on the bottom wire, with no ptu. So if I were to cut that wire and connect to the ptu plug instead to deliver that power, then how does the coil plug now get power???

I deleted my ptu due to issues I was having and going with a M&W ignition and coil-on plug setup. However, I think the M&W might be having issues and so want to send it off for inspection and use stock coils instead. But can someone please verify if this is correct on wiring it back in so I...

No idea but I have one coming now. Thanks though.

Guessing I'm not? Not sure how that part of it works.My plug on the harness was all falling apart. So unless someone had a plug end/pigtail for me to wire in, I guess I'm stuck for the moment.