Hmm, sounds like rod knock.:(

Yeah, I have washers on them. How do you know if they're on the right direction?

Tried to get you guys a clip but the site doesn't accept .wav files.

This is off topic but, the four exhaust manifold to turbo bolts keep coming loose. I mean, if it wasn't for the heat shield, I wouldn't have any bolts. How can I keep them tight. They're torqued to spec also.

I'll try to get a clip using my phone, tomorrow.

I know you're asking about Mitsubishi but, the Subaru dealer that was there is gone too.

To tell the truth, my first thought was to add a resinator but, I was afraid of the potential loss in power by adding it. That's when I decided to go the route of dual 2 1/4". I also thought there could possibly be an increase in exhaust flow but, again, that wasn't my reason for doing it...

I did it because I wanted to try and get rid of some of the low rpm drone of the 3" system. Ofcourse, there's still that annoying drone but, atleast now, it's not as deep. It sounds meaner, if I do say so myself! It was worth a shot.

Sorry for the poor quality of my camera phone but, here is a few pics of the muffler. Dual in/out. Actually they're two separate mufflers...sort of like th Apexi dual that you see on some 240sx's.

I'll post pics of the rear once I get home. They're a little grainy since I'm using my camera phone.

I just had my exhaust system re-done because I was tired of the low rpm drone on my way to work at 7:30am, from the 3" system. Well, It didn't get rid of the drone(it's not as deep now though), but the car seems to accelerate faster. Does that make sense, or am I imagining that my car seems...

Did you ever fix the problem? If not... I have one question for you, are you venting your bov to the atmosphere or is it reciculated back to the intake? If you ARE venting, that could be your idle problem.Good luck!

I didn't get a vibrant muffler after all. I ended up getting a 3inch dual canister muffler. I was able to get a GREAT deal on it so, I couldn't resist. I haven't mounted it yet so I couldn't tell you how it sounds. :cool:

Thanks for all the replies! I'm almost set on the black one with dual outlet but, that last one is so perty....:thumb:

Ahh yes...That black muffler is one that I've been looking at as well as the last one in my first post.Can anyone else comment on the sound of these mufflers... I mean, is the sound more mellow than the N1 style's? Are they alot deeper?Thanks

I want to get rid of my N1 style muffler for a more classic style. The constant droning gives me a headache. I was thinking of one of these mufflers by Vibrant. Anyone with a Vibrant muffler please post your likes/dislikes.They're all 3" inThanks

Update...I did a boost leak test and found that the vacum line coming from the boost gauge sending unit was no good. Replaced it with a new hose and my gauge reads like its supposed to.Boost climbs kinda slow to 1 bar though...Probably because of all the cracks around the wastegate flapper...

I found them on ebay. lol I think I typed "jdm fender flares" and only two results popped up. The sellers ebay feedback is questionable though. Be careful!

How about some bolt-on flares?

Yesterday, I teed the boost gauge into the "p" port off the intake manifold but, I still get the same type of readings. Just so you know, I did remember to hook the line back up to the fpr solenoid.Thanks

Well, I didn't get a chance to do much because of a long day at work but, I did check to see that my gauge is indeed teed between the solenoid and the intake manifold.

Hmm, now I'm not sure lol, but, I think it was the between the solenoid and the fpr.(?) I'll make sure tomorrow.

Ok, gotcha. I'll give that a try in the morning.Thanks!

For some reason my boost gauge is not reading anything past .5 bar. This is my second gauge(HKS elect. boost gauge, autometer) and they both read exactly the same. I have it teed into the fuel pressure solenoid. The factory boost gauge, although inaccurate, is pegged at wot and It definately...

I think I read on RRE's site that on 2g's the o2v should be .94-.96 at wot. In 3rd gear mine is .98v and 4th gear it's at 1.02v. That's why I said that I was rich.As far as the a/c fan, the blades were melted.

Ahh, ok. 0845 must be what I'm experiencing with my trans. as of today. Second gear feel's nonexistent. It feel's very mushy and It's hard to tell if I'm even in gear.My car is running a bit rich also(o2v is at .98-1.02). Would that cause the fuel system to see temperature problems? I don't...

I pulled these codes yesterday, 0182- (Fuel Temperature Sensor A Circuit Low Input) and PO845. I cant find that last code. Can anyone explain what the first code means and why can't I find the second code anywhere? Please help!Thanks

The Starion was first built in 1982 in Japan and was not part of the joint venture between Mitsu and Chrysler. That means that it' not a DSM. It had the 4G54 single cam engine. Some Starions did come with a 4g63 but I can't remember the year.

I was gonna say the same thing! It would look better than any bodykit.

atleast a 17", wheel but no bigger than 18". 18" Enkei NTO3+M in hyperblack = SWEET!

All I can find is install instructions on the Greddy gauges but, nothing on HKS. Surely, someone has some info on this.

I was just given an hks elec. boost gauge and have no idea on installation. I can't seem to find a manual/instructions anywhere. This particular gauge has a warning meter and playback(?) and what looks to be a sending unit. Any help on instructions/installation would be appreciated.

Hmm, seems as though that mustang has some cajones :sneaky: What'cha got in that thing? I second the nice editing job!

Last one

I bought one too, for my 95 awd. No problems at all!

Those cars aren't considered DSM's because they were made in Japan and Chrysler didn't have a hand in building them. The Conquest was only imported to the U.S. by Chrysler. Now, if you mean that because there was a joint venture between Mitsu and Chrysler to bring the Starion to the states, I agree.

Nice! Very clean 1g! Now, just lower that puppy :thumb:

I ordered it a couple months ago so, yeah, it fit perfect.

I bought mine off of ebay. The name of the seller is ezplus2003. I believe their feedback rating is something like, 98.7%.

The video is .... strange. :confused:

The Long And Winding Road - The BeatlesMan, am I that old? :cry:

Need to do something about my horn too. It doesn't work at all!aovsi, your car is SWEET! :thumb:

Try adjusting your clutch pedal.

Close ... It's a 12a. :thumb:

I was looking for a 2g Mr2 before I got the Talon. Go here for some infohttp://www.mr2.com

DSMu4ia, I have the same toolboxes, engine stand and drillpress as you. What I don't have is all that space in my garage

Is that the one making 424hp on totally stock internals?

OK, Great! I just ordered the o2 Sim., so, I should have it by Wednesday hopefully. I'll post and give an update on the outcome once it's installed.

Thanks for the reply! I did indeed search and found the cel codes list. I just needed a little clarity on the matter. For instance...Does the o2 need to be replaced or does the knock sensor need to be replaced? or How do I fix the problem? I have a 3" tbe system with no bung for the rear o2, so...

I pulled these codes today...P0136 - o2 sensor circuit malfunction P0141 - o2 sensor heater circuit P0325 knock sensor 1 circuit P0505 Idle control system malfunctionDoes this mean that I need a new o2 sensor, knock sensor and IAC? Please interpret for me.Thanks!