With this setup, did you remove the factory PCV and the vent on the VC and block them? Any pics of the VC?

The breather pushes air when under boost due to positive pressure in the crank case. The PCV valve does need vacuum at idle, which is normally supplied by the intake manifold. However, the OPs setup has remove the connection to the intake manifold so vacuum is not there.This is incorrect. If...

I don't. But seeing that its being posted on a forum asking if the surfaces are clean enough to put it back together I assumed he was confident in it to that point. Seals are cheap and quick.Same as above.Again, if he's putting it back together and didn't mention any issues like a miss...

Cylinder 4 has a lot of oil in it and there is oil on the valves. Replace the valve guide seals while its apart.

Wow. You are lucky this didn't destroy your motor.I think we have a winner ;)Time to tear the whole timing area apart. I'd replace the oil pump shaft seal and inspect the gear. Install a new nut and torque to spec. Consider using thread locker. Be ABSOLUTELY sure the nut isn't hiding inside...

Yes, all 1Gs have the pin. You can access it at the ECU or under the hood.

Man you are going to have a hard time finding any leak with all that muck everywhere. Go to the store and get a couple bottles of degreaser. Then head to the car wash, hose that area down with the degreaser, let it sit, then pressure wash it off. After that you may be able to see where its leaking.

12.5 is barely leaned out? OP, you better stay off WOT before you destroy something.

Get some better pictures. Close up of front and back. Disassemble the connector shown and take pictures facing the pins. Maybe others can help.

I've never seen those sensors/connectors before. Can't help you there.As for running with v3lite, just zero out all the knobs on the translator and use link for all the airflow adjustments. The white wire is to tap an RPM signal but if you have Link you don't need it.Also, IMO, I would...

I think this thread is being confused by terminology. You are saying you have a wideband that can simulate a narrowband? This is being confused with a feature of the DSMLink tuning program that can simulate a narrow band signal inside the ECU.As for your question, the downstream O2 on a...

I disagree with your first statement but I don't want to get into an argument.The 3rd and 4th statements could be true but nothing in the original post said anything to suggest that. Seems like pure conjecture. :idontknow:

OK, i get it now. You are confused ;).Look at this picture. The male threads on the far left are BSP. They thread into the manifold. The hole in the center(facing you) is NPT. That's where you put a barb for your MAP. The hole to the far right is BSP. You put the stock nipple back in...

That is correct, but why would you want the BSP nipple to thread into anything but the manifold? What NPT adapter are you talking about? One of us is confused :)

True, but seeing as how the other 3 cylinders are below the service limit I would bet a "refresh" is in the OP's future.A good OEM rebuild is not a bad method. Make sure you have the head freshened up at the same time. Also, I'd recommend getting a good set of forged pistons and trash the OEM...

Huh? I don't even know what you are asking?Harder to find than you might think. I linked you to one of the best products a few posts back.

Nothing on a stock, factory DSM is NPT. All the pipe threads are BSP. British standard pipe. The brake booster nipple is 1/8th BSP. That's why the adapter I linked works. It has 1/8 BSP male port to screw in where the brake booster is, then 1/8 NPT (on the side) to screw in your MAP (I thought...

Something like this would work. No need to change any threads. Just screw it in.

Absolutely 100% DO NOT DO THIS! You will have more issues than you have now if you do this. The reason isYou will end up with a very "choppy" boost signal that will cause rapid airflow changes that you will not be able to tune around. Pull the intake and do it right.

I'm glad you are deciding to put the finishing touches on the car before firing it up. Definitely get the wideband installed and wired into the ECU for logging in Link before starting the car. As for Link, if you want to have your settings reviewed before you start, that might not be a bad idea...

Why do you want to fire it up now if you aren't going to be driving it? If you search around you will get different opinions on how to break in a new motor but almost everyone will agree the worst thing you can do is let it idle. Most recommend driving it immediately under load to help the...

Are we talking about the same line? I used the factory line on the "back" of the turbo(as it is mounted in the car). The one I made custom was the U-shaped line on a 1G that connects on the front of the turbo, then loops under and connects to the water pipe. I used straight adapters on the...

I personally went with #1. I did screw around with trying to bend and tweak the OEM line to fit for a while but just couldn't get it quite right. Just a couple adapters and a few hose ends to get a nice flowing line that can be removed without have to replace crush washers each time.

None of this is true. GM MAFs lock baro and IAT because they don't measure volume of air and convert it to a mass(like Mitsubishi MAFs do). They measure mass directly. The tune doesn't need to be on the conservative side at all.

Why do you think have to install a FMIC to install a GM MAF? A GM MAF can be installed pre-turbo just like any other MAF.1. Remove your 2G MAF and pipe setup. Sell it. 2. Buy a standard round intake tube, the GM MAF, and the ECMLink cable. 3. Hook them all up and go.When you do get a FMIC...

Not if you have ECMLink. There is a cable that you get form them to run the GM MAF straight to the ECU. No translator needed. Here

Since you have already changed from the stock MAF, why not go GM MAF? WAY smaller than 2g, and is round. Cable from ECMLink is $85. Could sell your current setup to offset some costs.

There is absolutely no reason a 2G car with a stock 2G MAF would need over 30% airflow compensation. You either have a massive boost leak, or as you already suspect, your wideband is not accurate.

You have to be in learn mode for long term trims to be updated. Here is the learn mode parameters. Verify you are in learn mode. Then, as urban said, click ECU>Reset Fuel trims, and check the new values that are learned.

Sadly, I think this is what it has come to with DSMs. The cars have become so cheap to pickup and the market flooded with cheap Chinese junk parts that the vendors creating good parts are sick of the community not understanding that you get what you pay for.

What method are you using to determine there is no oil pressure? The stock gauge won't register anything with a few bumps of the key. An aftermarket one probably won't either for that matter. If everything was fine before timing jumped, and you installed the timing belt correctly, everything...

2-6 volts?! For a stock narrow-band sensor? Are you sure? They should swing between 0 and 1 volt. If you are seeing 6 volts you have an electrical problem or aren't reading something correctly.

For a more solid feel, this exists to replace the rubber bump.

Here is how to set up the wideband for logging. You don't need forum access to get to the wiki. The wiki has a ton of info. Check it out.

I understand tight budgets. Just a cheap reader will work. HereYou'll have to search the forums to see how to test the FPR. I don't know that one. Is yours there and plugged in? Are the vac lines going to it? Same goes for the waste gate solenoid.

OK. In that case with as many codes as you have i would recommend investing in an OBDII code reader/scantool. It will help to be able to clear the codes after a fix is made and see if the codes come back.If so then I would say the MAF and IAT codes are from that. Don't worry about them...

That doesn't look like the weld cracked, that looks like the actual metal cracked. Who makes the manifold? It can be welded, but personally I think it is a defective part and I would contact the manufacturer and see what they suggest.

P0170 - This could be because of a bad O2 sensor. Use whatever tool you are reading the codes with to see if the O2 is cycling at idle.P0125 - This is related to coolant temperature. Again, use whatever tool you are reading the code with to see the coolant temperature. If it is reading...

Ok, that makes sense then. It think it would be "cleaner" to go with the 12V sensor so a plug and play harness could be made to switch between the two sensors. I though I was the only one who valued not hacking up the stock harness. In fact, to wire up my wideband, I found an EGR temp...

No need to toss it. Continue researching and learning and build that motor up. It will drop into any 4g63 DSM.

And after all that time and work fabricating and painting and innovating to get the engines swapped, you are going to be using eBay cast shitty no-name pistons and machined stock rods? It just makes no sense.Get some real forged rods and some real forged pistons at the compression ratio you...

You need to keep reading... A LOT.1G compression ratio is 7.8:1. 2G is 8.5:1.Machining your rods(as shown in your pic) will not change your compression ratio.And as Bogus said, you are not going to want to try to put a 4g63 into your 420A car once you see whats involved.

Not to be rude but everything you said here has been said multiple times in this thread and added nothing to the discussion.

I am using a GM MAF with Link. I have my LC1 into EGR, MAP into BARO and IAT into factory IAT. I want the ability to switch between factory O2 and a fuel pressure sensor like you did with the MAP so I was researching the pinout of the O2 sensor. I came across your post (#19) but after a little...

Bringing this back up to address this question.The MAP sensors require 5V for power. They have a Power, ground and signal wire. The only power wire for the 1G O2 sensor is 12V from the MPI relay. Wiring it the way you have shown would power the MAP sensor with 12V. I didn't think this would...

No, you can't.

In that situation, probably not necessary, but it can't hurt.

This "tune" is just as bad as the other one. I still would follow the 7 steps in my previous post.Also, I'm not sure what's going on with your AFREst, but at WOT at 7591 RPMs the AFREst is 14.8. That makes no sense to me because the DA table is commanding 11.4Edit: The reason for the above...

Your Link settings are crazy. Why are you pulling so much fuel with the sliders? Was that done after the current symptoms appeared? Here are the issues i see:1. Fuel trims are trying to pull a TON of fuel. (-30%). 2. Your list at the top says 1050cc injectors but your global fuel is -43%. 1050...

I want both fans to work exactly like the factory radiator fan. I don't have AC so I don't want anything to operate based on that. Do you think the factory wire gauge is inadequate for running both slim fans on the rad fan circuit?