New clutch cover fixed the problem. I thought this clutch was nice before, but holy shit is it awesome now! Launching is easy and shifting at any RPM is like butter. For anyone interested in a great clutch, I can't recommend this thing enough. More importantly, though, Tim has not only...

Resolved! My alternator has been relocated to the rear and was somehow hitting the firewall (or something back there) under load. I haven't figured out how I'm going to fix it, but it's a simple problem compared to what it could have been. Thanks guys!

It happens any time the car is in a forward gear and I'm on the throttle at all. More RPM does not affect it. More throttle makes it worse.

I understand. Unfortunately, video is hard to get since it only does it when driving. I don't think an engine bay video will be any better since it'll be dark (hood down) and I wouldn't know where to point the camera anyway.Maybe it would be better to forget about the video and think about...

I recently fixed my clutch, and when taking it out for a test drive, I heard this sound. The clutch now works perfectly and the sound doesn't appear to be related. The sound only seems to happen in forward gears under any throttle, but is worse with more throttle. Bumps also make it happen...

Cool. Lesson learned. Don't be a dumbass. I'll place the order soon. Thanks for the help guys, and a huge thanks to you, Tim!

I got everything taken apart without further damaging anything. Here are my findings. Other than the cover, everything looks pretty good to me, but that's not saying much.

Yeah, I just hope it doesn't cost me (another) arm and a leg to fix. This could end up being worse case scenario.

Figures. I had it for months before I installed it. It must have gotten mixed up when being moved around. Oh well, no use crying over it now. I'll take it apart when I get home tonight and see how the rest looks.

Well, the first disc was installed correctly, as it is labeled "flywheel side." However, I couldn't check any subsequent discs since they had embedded themselves into the cover legs. I'm assuming this is abnormal, but I don't know what could have caused it. So some questions are raised: 1)...

Yeah. That would be great. I'm anxious to get this thing apart! What are the odds that I've damaged something if it is in wrong? And will it be easy to tell if I have when I'm looking at it?

My pedal has never felt hard at any point, so I'm not too worried about that. I'm hoping to drop the transmission early next week, so I'll post back then with an update.

I don't know yet.

Update guys, I've been talking with Tim and he's given me some good advice. I re-bled the clutch system with the MC rod all the way out (for maximum throw), which must've pushed more air out, because I now have about 16mm of travel. However, the car is behaving exactly the same as it has in...

So you're saying I actually have too much travel?

Ok, so I set up my phone to record the fork travel and final position. It's nowhere close to hitting the housing, so that's good, but it's only traveling 9-10mm. (Again, pedal/MC are adjusted all the way out.) Video and pics below.

I've tried. I'm not strong enough and don't have the right tools.

Well, I can't drop the trans and reinstall it by myself, so it'll either be relatively quick, or it won't happen.

Yeah. I'm hoping I can shim it without dropping the tranny.

I've been out of town for a while, but I just took a look at the fork's position and it's perfectly centered. Not sure why this is the case given everything is brand new. I'll check travel distance and whether or not the fork is hitting the housing tomorrow. I'm thinking I'm going to have to...

Yes.I think so, yes. It's been a while since I checked this, but I remember thinking it was ok. I'll double check tomorrow and let you know.Nate, I've done everything according to that post, including using a machined fork purchased from Tim. All components involved with the clutch...

It's installed perfectly to spec. I hope that's not the problem!

My clutch is dragging off the line and not engaging fully when I need to shift. It has no leaks. Master is brand new OEM. Line is ss straight from master to slave. Clutch/flywheel is QuarterMaster twin disc with about 1200 miles on it. Fork, TOB, and pivot ball are all new 1200 miles ago...

I'm glad you got yours figured out. I was able to get mine working with some elbow grease, washers, and a BFH. ☺

Due to my Jay Racing alternator relocation kit, my power steering pulley sticks out about 1/8" farther than the water pump pulley, and I keep throwing belts. Does anybody else have such a big discrepancy between the power steering pump pulley and water pump pulley when using this kit?I tried...

Gotcha. I have a couple of questions for you then.How did you tension the water pump belt? Did you run the alternator belt off of the ribs of the crank pulley that are closest to the block?

I ended up getting the relocation kit. Is anyone else having a hard time getting the power steering pulley just right. I used a straight edge to align the pulleys, and they seem good, but it keeps throwing them off when I'm driving.

Very happy to hear it!

No problem. The new o-ring I used was much thicker than the original. It barely fit on the pump nipple and barely into the sending unit. Make sure yours is also this tight.

RESOLVED! (For me, at least). When I last checked to see if my fuel pressure was rising at 1:1 with boost, I used anti-lag at 15psi since my gauge is under the hood. Today, I taped my phone above the gauge and recorded a video of a pull. What I found was pretty telling! Fuel pressure fell...

I'm running a 3" GM MAF. My fuel pump (walbro 450) is rewired. I'm going to do some more test tomorrow and hopefully get my hands on a different wideband. I'll keep you guys posted.

There's no way it "should" be done. The ECU reacts to the sliders just fine. Not saying DA tables aren't "better," but in this situation, sliders work. I am also using the sliders, as I have been for the last ten years. I've run e85 in the past with the sliders as well, and that has also...

This is also the code thrown for those of us with saturn alternators with self-regulators. There are two solutions: 1) Change a setting in ECMLink (http://www.ecmtuning.com/wiki/direct_access_changes?s=generator) 2) Ground the green wire in the stock alternator connector.

Wideband

The only reason I'm looking at the estimate is to compare. I'll check your thread out, thanks. FYI, mine began suddenly as well.

I have it wired into the ECU and am looking at the estimate on link.I just got in from doing a bunch of pulls and what I found is that my wideband readings aren't responding to fuel adjustments like they should. I started by turning the boost down and zeroing my fuel sliders. I then added...

I'm running a 50 trim, good for only 46 lbs/min. I'm going to go drive either tonight or tomorrow and run my tank to empty and then put 93 back in it. While I'm out, I'll turn my boost down very low and see how it responds. Ecmlink is saying I'm around 9:1. It used to say 8:1, but I took out...

My car does the same thing at lower boost, so I doubt it's the pump.

I'm running a walbro 450 and only pushing 25 lbs of boost, so I know the pump is fine. I know it's rich because all I should have to do to change from 93 to E85 is change my global fuel settings (and maybe decrease boost/timing to account for lower octane, of course). However, changing the...

I had a good 93 octane tune, and when that tank ran out, I switched to E85. I changed my global settings with link and went to the highway to tune a bit. After several pulls, I noticed that no matter how much fuel I added, I wasn't able to get my afr's below 13:1 or so. On top of the global...

I followed the installation instructions as well as I could, but I must be missing a step or not seeing something. With the bracket installed, when I go to adjust the bracket, the two arms just move since both are just attached with a single bolt (stock arm to the block; custom bracket to the...

I just ordered one of these alts from MCR. Can anyone tell me how hard installing/tensioning this is without the jayracing relocation kit or the bracket Glenn makes?

Glenn, your inbox is full and I need a bracket. Please get ahold of me asap if you have any.

I just put on a new coolant temp sensor, so when I get the car up and running, hopefully it's all worked out. Thanks guys.

I'm definitely planning to check the starter ground again. The battery ground is solid. Any other thoughts on ruling out the ignition switch?

I've been having an intermittent staring problem for a very long time, 2-3 years. I've read through the many threads on the forum and am thinking I have a ground issue, but since I don't have time to get to it right now, I thought some opinions could be very helpful.Sometimes, when I turn...

Is there any rubbing marks on the plate or sensor? If so, your crank has end play.

Yeah, it was just a refresh. I guess assembly error makes more sense. Hopefully it's not totally screwed because the shop made a stupid mistake. I'm pretty anxious to get this thing out. Hopefully I'll have time soon.

Thanks. I haven't had time to pull the engine yet, but a quick visual of the oil was good. It looked brand new without a spec of metal. So far so good. I'll keep the thread updated as a make progress.

Yes, the clutch switch has been disabled since 2005. Would it make a difference regarding whether or not to rebuild if it were the bearing or crank that's damaged? Obviously, if it's the block I won't, but if it's the crank could I just get a new crank?