Good to see another person go with this swap! The 2gnt harness will work fine and the only mount you need to fab is the passenger. The oil pan can be a pain, just make sure the mounting surface is checked for flatness after it's welded.Have fun!

Any testing on a FWD?

Veeeery interesting. I like unique setups. I'd like to see the bracketry that supports the supercharger.

Veeeery interesting. I like unique setups. I'd like to see the bracketry that supports the supercharger.

They look great. Can't wait to see photos of them installed.

No, I mean filling the actual bar with some sort of material. Or remaking it out of a tubular metal with spherical bearings to mount it to the lower rad support.

Yes.

What year is your Avenger? It looks like a 97+. That looks like a lip for the 1Ga Avenger (95-96). You can tell because they moved the license plate from the trunk lid (1Ga) to the bumper (1Gb). A 1Gb lip would have a cut-out for the plate. Nothing a little dremeling can't fix.

I think it's great. Maybe a tad overkill though on the size. Have you seen the front lower triangulated bar from D3 Designs? Have you thought about re-creating that one also and maybe offering it as a combo deal? And a little off topic, but I have thought about filling the "North/South" bar...

Do you have any pictures? There is only 1 complete rear bumper replacement for the Avenger that I know of. All others are lips that are attached in some way.

I'm running a 255/35/18 Yokohama S-Drive on Evo X 18x8.5 +38 on a 500# front spring and im pretty low on "stock" camber. To not rub, I had a local fender roller not only roll the fender but also push the fender just slightly out giving a bit more room. The tire just barely misses the fender...

Bump for 364 day updates!

Reminds me of the D3 designs rear chassis brace. This is much more stout though.

Oh, no problem! Always here to help.

That's what I was thinking. I'd dig deeper but I'm at work....and on my phone.

An avenger owner supposedly put 4G eclipse rear rotors and calipers on his car.4G eclipse rear rotors are vented, just like the early 95s.I asked for pictures but he stopped posting and I wasn't able to get them.Maybe someone wants to confirm this?

He's correct, you can use LS1 ARP rod bolts for the stock 2.0 and 2.4 rods.And you get 16 in a pack so you can make 50% or so back.http://forums.neons.org/viewtopic.php?t=348425That's just one thread of many.

When I first installed the setup, I had the control arms switched which made the bar hang down.I corrected the issue and now the sway bar "end" is above the control arm.Side Note: I'd make a spacer for the sway bar brackets (like how the 3G has), which is 7/8". The oem 3G bar comes to a...

Is there a reason why you don't want to roll your fenders? The rear "lip" is pretty easy to bend upwards with a rolling tool and some heat.You'll gain roughly a half inch by just doing that.

That's crazy. I had to add 10 shims to get what looks like the same rear camber as you. Sorry for assuming.I run a 255/35/18 on the same size wheel you do (+38) and I went with a heavier spring (800f/350r) on Koni yellows to keep my ride height, which is pretty low. But I also rolled my...

If you don't want to do anything to the suspension, you'll have to add negative camber to clear the fender.Edit: not that you're not going to "upgrade" but the easiest and cheapest would be to add the camber. Especially since you stated you're not too worried about performance and don't want...

Did you torque everything down with the suspension loaded with the weight of the car on it?

My automatic ECU runs my 10.5:1 2.4L with an AMM ported head, AMM intake manifold w/ 60mm throttle body and Crower 3's just fine.It has a pretty narly lope at idle, which is rock steady.

I like it.

In my case, I prefer the coupe. (Avenger) than the hatchback (eclipse). I'd do it just so I could have an AWD avenger. I could never buy one, like the eclipse guys can.

Nice Avenger!

Only the 420a. The V6 was only offered in automatic.

Go to ASEclub.netThere are a few that have done it with an A543 (or variant).

I bought brand new CTS-V calipers from GMpartsdirect.com for $140 each. Bought KMV brackets for $75. Bought used Evo X front rotors for $75.Unfortunately, the calipers are not loaded, so I still need to purchase the pins, clips and pads.But not bad for an "OEM BBK".Also purchased Evo 8...

I had a local roll and "push" my front fenders out for $50 ($25 a side). He used the roller to push the fender out a tad to gain a few extra millimeters on top of the rolling.I have no problem clearing a 255/35 S-Drive (10.2 section width) on Evo X 18x8.5's with the camber you gain on stock...

Ah! Gotcha.And for some reason my link doesn't work and I can't edit it. But they're Fragola Vise jaw inserts. It's like a 3rd hand when installing the fittings.

It might be a 4g63 thing, but what's that hard line that runs across the top of your firewall?Also, if you have a vice, this tool helps with the assembly of those hose ends, as I had the same trouble you had. http://http://m.summitracing.com/parts/fra-900061

That's what she said. LolYou're going to have to drill it out.

Nice calipers! I decided to go ahead and put mine on. You plan on getting a 3G master cylinder? Got mine (MC & BB) on fleabay for cheap.

Why don't you just save the money on what ifs and just upgrade?

The outlander brake swap is the new GSX brake swap.You get the 2 piston caliper, but the bracket is a hair taller so you can use the larger outlander rotor.The caliper is the same as the AWD so same brake pads. The larger rotor of the outlander than the AWD will help reduce rotor warpage as...

Same goes for you Chief. He owns a 420a and the thread is tagged as such. He can't use a turbo ecu and doesn't need his bov recirculated. Everything after that point is relevant however.

This is what happened to me and what caused a huge oil leak. This is Mark's #2.if you notice, the freeze plug just above and to the right on the crank wasn't installed correctly.And now correct:I replaced the crank seal also, which is what I thought it was.

Ask Paul from Symtech. He's good with stuff like this.

Mike, as always, your work is phenomenal. That's why I have so much of it.

Yea, the stock ECU blows. I'd imagine whenever I got around to installing my MS, it would be like driving a whole new car.And the 6.5 rpm redline sucks also.

Also, check the bushings at both ends.

Yes. Use the same year block as your original one. Or just find a 2.4 edz block if you're good at fabricating or know someone who can.

Specifically the compression (curved) arm, just as Kevin mentioned.The shock (grey) is not fully seated inside the "fork" as someone else mentioned.There's a lot a wrong in those pictures. Fix each issue one-by-one.

I still plan on boosting it. But because I already paid Mike for the header, I wanted to see what I could crank out of the motor N/A. I'd love to be on the 200whp list.... And then the 400whp list. Lol.

You should boost it, I'd love to see what it does. But not at the expensive of grenading a perfectly good N/A motor.Still waiting for Mike to build me one of his LTH's because I'd love 200whp or close to that.

How's the butt dyno? I have a 2.4 with 10.5:1 and Crower 3's running a stock ATX ecu.With a 6500 rpm rev limit and a 3.55 transmission, she still surprised me.If I had to do it again, I'd probably would have gone long rod 12.5:1.It's reassuring that the stock ecu can still maintain...

They are compatible. But look at the Sebring coupes, they have Homelink in the visors, if you want it.

The Evo guys run FD 16" rims with their stock brakes.

Here's a pic of my old ones when I sold them.