Uh, 90 is bad considering all the others are 150 (or very close).Indicates possibly a cracked head (between valves), or a broken ring (in which case it would probably be smoking like a freight train).You probably need to dig into it.
1. A young guy in a sports car is probable cause. It sucks, but that's the way it is. I learned quickly NOT to have stuff on my car that attracts attention. Drive within the law, and you usually won't have a problem.2. Pacing you is a perfectly legit way to measure your speed. I know...
They are used in all sorts of classes where drag cars are required to run some type of muffler. At those events, flowmaster and borla is about all you'll see bolted to those cars.And I agree with the other comments in this thread. The butt dyno is worthless. Too many variables to account...
Well, every car magazine has probably done muffler comparos in the past 4 or 5 years. probably wouldn't be that hard to look up.Typically, Flowmaster and Borla come out on top as making the most power, with other trailing by different amounts.
Galsspacks will typically neck down first off. Even though the inlet/outlet is say, 2.5", the ID inside the muffler might be 2".Also, all of those stamped louvers create a ton of turbulence, which is bad.That's why glasspacks suck.
A "turbo" muffler seems to be a marketing term more than anything else. What makes a muffler a turbo muffler?The glasspack is about the worst muffler you can have, some stock mufflers being the only exceptions. On top of that, they sound like shit. It's a very restrictive design.
And what kind of math are you doing here?One 3" pipe has a cross sectional area of 7.07 square inches.Two 2.5" pipes have a cross sectional area of 9.8 square inches.Now which of these has the greater area?
It should go down with more cars than drivers, but you also need to see which car you are primary on.And when you turn 25, it'll drop.I'm 29, and my insurance for my '98 Grand Cherokee (full coverage and then some) and '93 Laser (liability only) run me $100/month.Not that those...
Coming from "the other side" where 4 cylinders is only half an engine and guys actually need 3" or larger dual pipes, you're gonna get laughed at.Every time I see a car that has a 4" tip, I crack up...especially knowing that it'll probably only wheeze into the 15s on the track.It really...
See, I'm confused...what's the big deal with converting a FWD to AWD? The tunnel is already there, which would be the biggest problem.Also, about the front knuckles....certainly no reason to ditch them. The do need to have some bolted connection to keep the bearing together in the front...
All I'm saying is I don't care who you are, washing engines with water, no matter how you dry them, is a bad deal. Significant portions of these engines (like all engines) are made with iron and steel, and it will rust. Washing them with water is just stupid.
I call BS.First, these lazy illegals aren't going to go to the trouble of making things "clean" by dumping into the oil cap.Secondly, the factory is going to clean an engine internally with hot water? I don't think so. Some sort of solvent maybe, but even that's doubtful.
Yep, very good advice. If I got the readings like in the second set of numbers (Cylinders 2 and 3 considerably lower than the others), I would suspect a blown headgasket, crossleaking between cylinders 2 and 3.
Since many people get confused about backpressure, scavenging, exhaust sizing, etc., I wrote this up for another board. I just did a quick cut and paste here, so enjoy...There is a common misconception that engines need backpressure in order to run properly, generate low end torque...
Scavenging and backpressure are two totally different things, and from what I can tell, very few people know what'as really going on there. I typed up a big explanation for another board....I'll start another thread and cut and paste it.
That sounds like a Lenco trans.I want mine to be a street car. Powerglides are only 2 speeds, so definitely not a good choice for a street car.Also, The engine bay in one of these is fairly large.....why just use the 4g63t?That's why I'm going with an LS1....400 hp is an easy cam...
The 1G chassis is pretty rigid, compared to other cars...certainly more rigid than a GM F-body.It could be complemented with a cage if needed, but I know guys running 500-600 hp in camaros with no problems....
This is what I want to to, except with an LS1/T56.The FWD cars alredy have a tunnel, so it's not a big deal.I'm planning on using a solid axle for the rear....an 8.8 out of a '95-up Ford Explorer (up until they went IFS). It should be about the right width, it has the 5x4.5" bolt...
Werd.The cat is just a restriction, plain and simple. I won't get into the whole backpressure debate, but backpressure is ALWAYS a bad thing, but people confuse that with scavenging. It doesn't matter too much for the turbo guys since they can't use scavenging to their advantage much...
That's usually the most cost effective solution. You can replace JUST the joint, but there's more labor involved, and the price of an outer joint is often 80%-90% of what the whole shaft costs (speaking in general here, not specific to DSMs).
Wait, wait, wait...are you saying that the resistance of the wire has nothing to do with a strong spark? That is 100% completely incorrect. The more resistance in the wire, the larger the voltage drop. The more voltage drop in the wire, the less that's available at the plug.The more...
Make sure you put the crank bolt in using an impact, or at least use some threadlocker on it.I changed the belt on my 1.8 and after many months, the bolt loossened up can caused all sorts of bizarre problems.....like the keyway in the crank sprocket getting fubar'd.
Ok...my first post on this board, and I'll throw in my two cents.1. $900 for a torsen based LSD? Wow, I'm in the wrong business. These things are built for tons of other applications at 1/3 the price. Seriously, at $900 a pop, someone is making some serious cash.2. As far as this...