Had this exact problem. It ended up being the tensioner. Rev engine up and noise goes away. At idle it ticked like a mofo. Got a good video of it too.http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/nasty-noise-coming-from-engine-tbelt-area-video-included.489118/

Here's another video I made before I tore into it. It's longer at 7mins showing cold start until the noise appears. Looks like when it was cold (8 degrees in video) the tensioner was maybe frozen or tight enough to keep things quiet. In the video I show how revving it kills the noise back and...

Yeah definitely I got lucky on the skippage.I did look at the tensioner arm/area as well. It was good. Nothing out of the ordinary, no divots, it's still good & functional.

Finally got a chance to tear into it and found the culprit. Ended up being a faulty tensioner. Once everything was off I was able to depress the tensioner pulley with my hands. The tensioner gave just enough tension to push the tbelt back up when motor was off making everything appear normal...

Yes feels tight when motor is off. I would say it's loose if it was in fact loose. Orientation is also correct. Tensioner pulley was tensioned clockwise pointing up. I've done numerous timing belt jobs in the past 10 years working with these cars. How is this job wrong without question? If...

It's all stock. I put a rebuilt 6bolt head on. The head was used shortly before in a good running engine. As for the bottom end it was a simple garage re-ring + hone job + new rod bearings. I've done these before with no issues. Unfortunately this is also the first time I have had the car...

91 TSi AWD automatic with 90k. Recently brought back from the dead from sitting 3-4 years. I re-ringed and threw a new head on. New t-belt.The car starts, runs, & drives fine. I've driven it 550 miles so far. Bone stock.Problem: car makes a nasty fast ticking rattle noise under a...

Found the problem!When replacing parts with known good working parts and the car still doesn't start it usually means there is a problem with the electrical wiring. It ended up being the wiring at the transistor pack. Electrical problems are the worst #$#%#(! Glad to have this beast up!

Ok car is a 92 Talon AWD. This is a buddy's car thats just been through a rebuild.Car tries to start but dies immediately. It will catch, but dies immediately. I've been trying to diagnose this with everything (swapping out parts, de-modding, tracing some wires, checking fuses, relays) only...

I have good news! The problem went away! I was just fed up and decided to put everything back on to test. After starting it I figured it would still stutter, but nope, it started up and within a few seconds the car returned back to life! Not really sure how it sorta "fixed" itself but everything...

Timing is correct. I checked it and double checked it. I thought it would be wrong but it's correct. Crank pulley is fine as well. Something definately is wrong however...Firing order is correct. If I change it the car won't even start. With the coil pack changes, I made sure the...

Ok here's a video of trying to start it without the intake manifold. It's not sopposed to start like this since the intake manifold is missing along with the throttlebody, so I would assume if it starts the engine would free rev to as high as it can go. But for diagnostic purposes this is how...

Base timing is good. Moving the cas timing doesn't net any positive results. The problem started shortly after a HG job. The car ran fine for a few days then just began to act like this.Here's another video. It doesn't really want to start. Why is it back firing into the intake mani like...

Ok posting on tuners!The car will not stay alive, and sounds like it's running on 3 cylinders. I have to give it gas for the car to stay alive. If revved up it sounds like a subarau motor. If rpms drop to around 1k the car bucks, misfires and wants to die. Also sounds like it has the biggest...

I reused my cometic and it popped 50 miles afterwards (but that was at 35psi boost). However I've had a friend reuse his with success (He only went 25psi). Lots of variables come into play like: how well you cleaned everything, minor subtle imperfections you can't see on all mating surfaces...

Ok guys I'm at a dead end. I've checked the forums and read some good info on parking light/dash light issues. Problem started out of nowhere. It was while I was driving the car normally. Dash lights just started to flicker until they went off completely. Car is a 1999 GST.My parking...

No spacers in front if using tires 225 and smaller.However, spacers and grinding required in rear if you have awd. FWD doesn't need any rear grinding because the suspension is differernt. There isn't a huge metal member/control arm piece running across. I think I used a 5mm spacer for each...

Go with a cheap autozone Fel-pro composite HG & ARP Headstuds torqued to 110ft lbs. You will be able to run 35psi saftely. That is the combo I use and I've had no problems with it.

DSMLink interopolates the needed fuel from your airflow though the engine so you should set the boost where you want then tune afrs and timing accordingly. AFRs shouldn't change much from the increase in boost pressure so tweaking it should be a matter of small incremental moving of the fuel...

I have run my oil/water cooled turbos without being water cooled in the past and they all were fine.

If everything is the same except the swap of a new wastegate then the wastegate is not closing shut solid 100% causing your slow boost build up. That is usually due to not having a tight close on the flapper arm.

I ported mine just like yours, maybe slightly bigger. My oil pressure doesn't run higher than 75-80psi. Although it ramps up pretty quickly 3,000rpms+ and it's already at 75-80psi but stays there til redline.Before the porting it pegged my gauge @ 100+ psi, so now it's under control but it...

Bad BOV, I went through a few turbos because I didn't think the bov was the culprit.

I run them and I have the older version fd wheels. They are still fine with many launches and tight turns on my 92 awd pig.At the bottom you'll find the difference between the two versions of the same wheel. RX-7 Wheels and Tires

Not worth it, I payed $5 more and bought a universal kit that is much easier to use.

wow that's some good stuff there. glad you got it done.

I agree too that not everyone can afford to get high dollar parts. However the fact is many people have used home depot for parts. The parts used probably don't last as long as vendor sold parts but they do work. If they didn't then people wouldn't be suggesting to go to home depot for...

I am using a rubber line I found at Menards. It's been working great for a very long time.

You do not need to retorque them if they were installed and torqued properly the first time.

A final and for sure way to double check if you have the belt correctly timed is to quickly turn the engine over six times. You are not going to bend valves if it's off a very small amount. And if you are really off (in which case you don't need to touch a dsm) the engine will only crank far...

I've done many timing belt jobs as well and Freerevving is absolutely correct. The marks won't line up close at all if your timing is off. In the pictures supplied, the timing is dead on. It's impossible to be half a tooth off and look correct. It just won't look right. I've timed some cars...

From my experience this turbo is capable of keeping up with a real evo 16g. If not it will perform at least at 95% of what a real evo16g can pound out. Performance wise it'll hang.It's the just cheap parts that negates this turbo away from being really reliable and long lasting like a real...

Thanks for the response, however the ebay 16g was just a for fun test turbo.I've already stepped up to an scm61 for the win.It was fun but play time is over. :mad: :rocks:

Tore it down.The compressor wheel must of broken off and spun freely inside the housing. Most of the outer blades are chewed up/gone. Exhaust side looks fine.

I'm running E85. No knock great fuel.

OhhhhhhKAYY...THE TURBO BLEW!In 3rd gear rolling towards 7k it suddenly pops. I thought I blew an intercooler pipe. Pulled over and find out the turbo's blown.I believe the turbo blew due to trying to run these insane boost levels. 28psi dropping to 25-26psi redline. I have not torn it...

Ok any of you guys able to run more than a solid 25psi? I've adjusted the wastegate rod to maximum tightness to try and ensure the wastegate doesn't open up at all. And to make sure it stays shut I don't have a pressure source on the wastegate nipple.It spikes to like 28psi and falls to...

I have 16x8 rx7 wheels on my 1g fwd and they fit no problems, no spacers.

Forgot to mention it blew my cheapo topline headgasket. Right in the middle between cylinders 2 & 3. Replaced with a used mitsu metal hg and still going great. ARPs mind you. This wannabe is way stronger than the 14b at it's highest boost. But obviously cause I'm boosting 25psi. From 14b...

So far so good. I've been boosting it hard (24-25psi) for like 500 miles now. Walked on a 2.3 built stroked out 35r evo. Shaft play is non existent, up and down or in and out. Exactly the same as when I put it on. I honestly think it will last a good amount.

Just got mine installed and running. Only problem was oil the supplied oil feed line wasn't 100%. Went back to the oem one from the 14b and now it's good. No adjusting of the wastegate arm running a straight pressure source to the wastegate nipple it's doing 25psi right now but it feels...

rofl maybe the cams weren't adjusted and installed straight up which might cause deviations.

Since the turbo pistons on these cars are dish shaped, adding oil may or may not reach the ring sealing part of the combustion chamber. Therefore I would not completely jump to the conclusion of bad rings since oil is a fluid and will take up space it will increase your compression every time...

All I gotta say from reading your posts is I can barely comprehend what you're saying from how you write.

I'm currently maxing out a 14bRunning with no actuator pressure (line disconnected)It spikes to around 22-24psi then QUICKLY drops down to 16-17psi around 5k and up.Running 2.5 inch long intercooler pipes with FMIC

check the upper timing cover, sometimes they move and touches the belt causing loud whining. I hate to say it but I don't run the upper timing cover anymore because mine isn't in the best shape causing the movement.Test, and run the car without the upper cover. If it goes away then you've...

That'll keep yer busy. :sneaky:but seriously I'd do those mentioned

I bought a set of those revised lifters. Although I have to say one collapsed on me and made a horrific ticking noise. I think the quality control isn't the best but if you have a working set they are great.

-rod bearings -t-belt & bshaft belt -waterpump -pullies -alt belt -power steering belt -valve cover gasket, half moon -balance shaft eliminate -front cover w/oil pump -new turbo -fmic -injectors -new cam seals -new cas o-ring if you have one

The stock tensioner works fine. Use that.