Do you have a local radiator shop? If you do, they could cut off the old "neck" on the end of it and put it anywhere you would need it to be. I've seen it done on a few applications and it turns out just fine. Then you don't need to worry about using couplers/pipes to have a radiator hose.
Actually, 1g's have a separate button to turn the over drive off (it's on the shifter). That button increases the RPM that it shifts at, basically moving the shift points up the RPM band.
That's the whole clutch kit. He's looking for just the street disc. I ordered mine from SB and I don't know if they matched prices or not but it ran me 125 bucks. :thumb:
GOOOOOOOOO DALLAS!edit, what do you mean the series is over. :pDwayne Wade played awesome. I'd say he is within the top 5 players in the league now. Didn't break under pressure and hit the shots they needed. Granted NO player should ever get to the line that much, you can't make...
I highly doubt anyone shipped anything to hawaii for 20 bucks. It cost me 9 bucks to send 2 t bolt clamps from Ohio to PA (back to SBR) in a 4x4x4 box. :rolleyes:
I'm seeing like 45 once the car reached about 180 degrees. I'm not exactly sure as to what those numbers refer to either.My only other guess is to try the old chip (where it didn't do it before) and then if I continue to have problem, install the stock eprom chip. :notgood:
I have a DSMchip and I had him set my idle to 950 (due to cams) which I thought would be high enough. I can't say I never had the problem before the motor rebuild (when the BS were pulled) because I did but it seems like it wants to stall out easier. It's to the point where if I'm coming to a...
Basically, I'm running an 8lb flywheel and no balance shafts but my question is how many guys are running an aluminum flywheel and no balance shafts and have there car stall? Is it possible that my ISC works good enough to hold the idle at idle but it can't catch the rpms on downfall that...
I don't believe there is any difference or not. A buddy of mine went from an LT1 (3") to an LS1 (3.5") and there was no difference it all. It only cost him more money for bigger couplers/clamps. I wouldn't bother with it.
Mavs would've closed game 6 with Jason Terry but they didn't. Game 7 goes to the Spurs.Cleveland blew game 6, Detroit is going home to win it.Suns > Clippers.IF Dallas got past San Antonio, I'd say they will be the champs because I'm not so certain anyone in the East can play with them.
I've seen both actually. A buddy of mine has had his in thw downpipe for about 10k miles and the sensor still looks and seems to be fine. I've also seen them pulled and replaced with a bung plug ( <---- :p ) due to the fact that all that does it wear the sensor faster.I guess it depends on...
Ok, so what is your question? Your not asking anything.If you want to know what the CEL is, take it to AutoZone and have them tell you what the code is. Without the code and with the information you provided, I don't believe anyone can help you. :confused:
Not on 22psi and not with an Evo3. Your going to hard pressed to hit 400whp on an Evo3. Your definitely going to need a bigger turbo if those are your goals and your 100% serious. You might break 400hp on an Evo3 with race gas and 28lbs of boost but I definitely don't recommend it. With a...
I'll be honest and say that you'll outflow the 190 before you over run the 650s. It's all just a guess when talking about how much boost but I would say easily enough to run 22psi, assuming your not knocking. I'd start at 18 and go up from there.
What does your compression look like? It's possible you have a burnt valve and your not seeing full compression in that cylinder.How do your plugs look?
I would personally go with 650s. 650s will take you a long way and 750s would be to hard to tune using an AFC/Maft. I haven't seen to many Evo3s flowing enough air to over run 650s. ;)
I'm actually running an 18g with what looks to be your same specs. I wasn't having the backfiring problem at all, it just felt "slow" for all the mods I have done.I still have to verify it's a 255, check/reset my base timing and if that doesn't fix it, try the stock chip. I have feeling...
Andy,
Interesting talk we had the other night. :p I definitely think that your on to something. Unfortunately, it's been rainy here all day so I didn't have a chance to post some logs. I'm going to double checked the base timing in the morning and see what I come up with.Another thing...
I've personally drove a car with a fully ported 14b that held 23psi to redline. Granted it was a very modded car and I'm sure it was very close to it's limits but none the less, the car was still pulling. :thumb:
Not much help but a buddy of mine actually ran it through his TRE rebuild and the trans was perfect. They told him it would probably be a little notchy until it warmed up but he had no problem with it whatsoever. He had problem after problem with fluid until he found this. As far as temp...
I'm all for supporting vendors but go to your dealer (if there is one close by) for parts like that. It cost me 5 bucks for the whole kit. No need to spend 20 +.
Andy,
thanks, I'll definitely try that. That was Jeff's idea as well to possibly set the fuel pressure 3psi higher and see if the knock goes down. Like you said, that way we know if it's a fuel supply issue or not.I'm hoping to get my hands on a wideband for the weekend so I can make...
An internal gate won't necessarily help give you power unless your stock gate is blowing open to early. I believe Bullseye makes a 38mm internal gate and there is also an option for a 34mm wastegate but I don't believe it's necessary for what your trying to do.Are you having trouble with yours?
I have the same problem you do, although mine isn't as loud. From what I've seen, the Evo pump is a direct drop in and flows right around what the Walbro 190 does. It should provide enough fuel for your 16g, no problem. A buddy of mine used the beer cozie thing on his pump and didn't make a...
I definitely agree with you there. Is there a way to test the fuel pump? Or a way to determine if it's good or bad? I'm going to try a new ECU tomorrow and see if somehow I can get a decent tune on it, which may be a little difficult tuning the 660s. It should at least give me an idea of...
My low is like 101-102% and off the top of my head my mids are highs are 106-110%. I can get an exact figure later but either way, my trims are still lean. WTFI'm definitely going to try and get a wideband hooked up to it but I'm also going to try another ECU, that isn't chipped and see...
Boost was 19psi. I'm running Sunoco 93 but I usually run 94. I might have access to a wideband and I'm hoping to use it this weekend if I do.The problem is all the knock I'm getting and how much fuel I'm adding. There should be no reason to add that amount of fuel. With it zeroed out the...
I think I figured out how to get the logs up..Hopefully it works.EDIT: hm, didn't seem to work. Anyone be able to post my logs up if I sent them to you? I definitely want to get these up.
I know alot of people will say it's unlikely but I would say it's in your flywheel. If it's the same sound I have, I would say thats it. I know of 5 guys that have an aluminum flywheel and they have the worst noise, myself included. It's only on decelleration and only when it's in gear. Try...
Through a DSM chip, through Keydiver, he can set up your stock boost gauge to monitor knock. I believe every line indicates 5 counts of knock. It's cheaper then a knock-box and plus you have a ton more features.www.DsmChips.com
Depends what kind of money you have to spend. If you have the money, I would say go with DsmLink. That will set you back about 600 bucks + an e-prom ECU (if you don't have one).A simpler way to tune would be with a datalogger and AFC combined with a Keydiver e-prom chip. That would set...
When we first started the tune, we added a little bit of fuel but then we decided to add a ton of it and the car felt insanely faster.With all of my logs, I'm seeing between 15 and 18* of timing. It varies a little bit and around 6800, I see about 11* but everywhere else it looks okay...
It doesn't matter about 1g stock pressure, I had Keydiver set base pressure to 43psi. It is the correct chip and we've gone back and forth about it. There are NO vaccum leaks, all new lines amd most are eliminated. There are NO boost leaks and my fuel pressure regulator is a 1:1. With 20psi...
Andy, according to my logs, I'm getting a decent amoutn of knock up top.- With the AFC zeroed out and in 4th gear, I'm seeing between 12 and 25 counts of knock with my o2sin the range of .68, .76, and .64. That tells me that I am very lean.- With me adding 30% of fuel and in 3rd gear...
Any idea as to what would cause me to run lean like that and why I should be adding that much fuel on the AFC? I know something isn't right but I haven't figured out what. :(I guess I could add that according to the AFCII, I was flowing 2162hz of air, which was actually lower then when me...
Basically, my AFC should be zeroed out which was what I did when we first started the tune. The car pulled pretty decent but not like it should be. I know you can't use them but according to my narrowband, at WOT, I was running lean instead of it pegging into the rich side. This is where we...
Basically, I finally got everything together and I'm trying to get a tune on the car. Important mods are a Walbro 255, AFPR, 660s, 2g MAF, 18g, Front mount, and Comp 200s. I am tuning with a logger, AFC II, and a DsmChip. Chip settings are as follows:
1992 Laser RS AWD
Manual Transmission...