As late as I may be to this thread, I have to chime in.My stock (shift kit, endclutch, big cooler) trans has survived over 30,000 miles of abuse from a 50 trim running 22-25 psi daily driven. I may not be putting 400 hp to the ground, but the high side of 40lbs/min is nothing to sneeze at...
Wow! Back from the dead! I have come quite a long way from the good ol killer days. See my profile for the current setup.
Anyone that has an A/T shouldn't be affraid to go with a 50 trim. Anywho, my killer suffered from many cracked developing in the turbine housing. This was caused mainly...
I was running the stock cams with the stock 2g head, so the spoolup comparison isn't ideal. I would get 20 psi at 3500 on the stock topend. This was with the DNP header though. The header improved it about 200 rpm.I have them installed straight up with the stock cam gears.
I have experience with both of the off the self Comp grinds. See my profile for the setup used with each.The smaller Comps (#101100) are far better for the street. My lowend and off boost response was slightly increased over stock. I saw 22psi around 3600 rpm. The idle is undetectible...
Thanks for the props guys. Yeah thats me up in New Hampshire. I haven't raced in a couple years though as money is tight. It does "look" like an RC51 don't it... hehe. I built that bike after i hit a deer and nearly killed myself. It started life as a 98 Honda Superhawk VTR1000. After I...
:thumb: Glad it was simple fix. Its a trade off for some crash protection though. No front bumper support on that puppy! Post up some more pics with the piping. ;)
You would have better luck posting this in the A/T section as Transdude from IPT is on regularly.It sound like your trans is in "limp mode", most likely due to failure of a sensor or solenoid.
Do a search at http://car-part.comI got replies from a ton of salvage yards. Just make sure you triple check it has an "E" on the ID tag. Most of the yard have no idea what the differences are in the ECUs. So you can get one cheap. :thumb:
If you use sufficient size cable (2 or 0 guage) you wont have any issues starting.
Also if you are running a sound system, the Blue top has extra posts. Very nice for powering up extra componets. Its the marine version of the Yellow top.
I second the "if it ain't broke, don't fix it". The stock gasket is good well over 20 psi on a good tune. If you have no plans on running anything over 15 psi, the stock gasket and head bolts are more then adequate.
One of the meanest sounding, lightest, cheapest exhaust is Hindle. Erion is very similar in sound, but a lot more money. Yoshimura pipes are also badass sounding, but a bit "smoother" sounding and again not cheap.
With that said I would go with the Hindle. :thumb:I suppose I'll leave...
ARP give a torque spec of 65-70 ft lbs with studs on an aluminum head. For your application I would go with the regular OEM gasket. With the studs, its been known to hold 25 psi. Should be plenty.
Exactly. If you are running the stock 1g or 2g intake manifold, your power is leveling off around 6500-6600 rpm even with cams. Thats the nature of long runners. There is no reason to shift any higher unless you are running a SMIM and cams.
Its most likely your BOV. Most 1g valves make a high pitched squeak right when you let off the gas. You can even make them whistle a tune with careful throttle manipulation. :laugh:
The head, cams (m/t), intake manifold and throttle body are about it. You will need the complete thermostat housing as well as front water pipe to install the head on a 2g.*edit* I forgot to ask what year the 1g was? The above parts should be 91-94 as the front water pipe and TB are...
Carbide not carbine.. :laugh: You'll want carbide bits and they are specific for cast iron/steel and aluminum. A cast iron bit will clog within seconds if used on aluminum.Are you looking to port your exh manifold/O2 housing or head?
That's what I ment. ;) 6 bolt specific. The ebay deal doesn't seem to be that cheap. Thats about what you would pay for each seperately.
Most guys here use the mitsu 4 layer or Cometic gasket rather then the copper as well.
3" couplers will make you spurt out words you didnt know existed! :laugh: They will fit if you are persistant enough. Try to find 3.25" if at all possible!
Most of the shops have ARPs for the same price around $90 or so. You can sometimes find a deal for less on ebay though.
If you have your head off, definitely use ARP studs to reassemble it. If you don't have your engine out of the car, you can't do the main studs. They aren't accessable from...
That doesn't really answer his questions :laugh:You can effectively tune the car to run quite well with just the Translator. Its going to be inconvenient having to stop and open the hood each time to make adjustments. You could always extend the harness and mount it inside. ;)
I just want to add that the N/A and Turbo TB's arent the same. 91-94 are 60mm, but do not use the 4 bolts to attach the upper IC pipe. You would need a 2-1/2" coupler. They also do not have the butterfly shaft seals.
;)
I cross my fingers and hope everytime I step on the gas that it will stay together. :laugh:
I did have it around 260-300 whp for 40k miles or so with no problems whatsoever. So I know it will handle those levels quite well.
I have only a shift kit, endclutch and upgraded cooler with around 380-400 whp. The trans has handled it fine for a while so far.
I'd say as long as its taken care of, his should last just fine with his mods. ;)