Came off my black GST years ago. No rust, no dents, still has original factory stickers on it.Needs a new layer of paint, unless you want the rat rod look, in which case its perfect. Paint actually looks much better than the pictures, its covered in a layer of dust because it's been sitting...

As others have already stated, ML-85 was made so that we didn't have to mix the ML-90 and MTL cocktail. You can't go wrong with it. I ran a fresh rebuild off the old cocktail, no problems.

Your radiator cap controls the pressure. If the upper hose popped off, it was simply too loose. Rock hard and hot ;) is normal.

When you have the turbo off, check the mating surfaces of the exhaust housing as well as the exhaust manifold. If they are damaged, have grooves, warped, i.e. anything other than flat, consider a quick and cheap resurfacing.

Where do you see this guy acting like this is worth gold? :hmm: I smell confirmation bias.

Hope it's not an expensive turbo and/or the coating holds up. Swaintech, one of the better known companies that does coatings, won't even touch the inside.

Link is still up. Lets not debate and ruin it.

Manifold would make me very nervous... nothing like making the turbo eat peeled off ceramanic.

Thanks for the files. You're my hero of the day.

The ebay kit is very good and I had good communication with the seller when I bought mine. Installing is not that bad, most time consuming part is soldering and taping/shrink wrapping all your connections - don't skimp on this part.Keep in mind that a couple of the install articles differ...

AT or MT? Are the RPMs rising inconsistently with speed? And when you say boost shoots up, how far are you reaching?

Black ice smells like deodorant. Not unpleasant, but not something I'd swath my interior in.

If they are higher compression pistons you can do a compression test. It's not 100% but it generally points in the right direction.Cams depend on the brand, but usually there is some kind of marking/stamp on the shaft.Good point and much easier. Basically pick a rocker that is not being...

You won't be able to verify lifters by just popping off the valve cover. The holes are covered by rockers. You will have to unbolt the cam caps. If you are careful and you clamp the timing belt to the cam gear, you won't have to redo timing and you won't have to unbolt the caps all the way...

Haha... even if you could squeeze your way in... how are you supposed to get out?

Yes. Pretty common on this forum.

This is important. Don't just empty it out.

I get caught off guard by my DSM's auto-rev feature all the time. Always when pretty girls are around and lots of people are staring.

... needs more pictures in his profile. Large turboed 420a is not a common sight.

They should be the same ISC. Give it a test:DmTaLoN's Idle Speed Control Test/Fix Page!

Has no turbo. ;)

Can't imagine it's much more complicated than removing, plugging, and painting.

Nice... I had no idea. :thumb::thumb: Guess I should stick with what I know... breaking 2Gs.

Not quite the same, but they bolt right on. The 2g exhaust manifold is considered a good cheap upgrade for 1gs.

Also don't have to worry about snow if you're driving fast enough. :DActually I just finished installing CF hatch and I'm having a heck of a time deciding if I want the wiper back on there.

I like how the entire DSM community banded together to save this guy from going down the ricer path.Just one more to hammer home the point (and to show off). Granted it's not as shiny and it's been riced out with CF hood and hatch. ;)

You DID change all the belts (AC, PS, ALT) at the same time... right?

It's a bit humorous to see the miscommunication going on here, but I think I understand your question. Allow me to take a stab.You are concerned that when you open the cap, air gets into the coolant tube. This would break the continuity of fluid. Next time you start the car, it gets hot...

Or just rev it a bit (just a lil' tap on the throttle) in neutral and watch how much the motor moves. Probably your rear motor mount.

... should know that this thread has the tenacity of a much abused DSM.

Grinder. Power sanding tool. Buffer. Elbow grease. Elbow grease. Elbow grease.

Doesn't really pertain to this thread but just FYI:In general with DSMs, the limit on RPMs based on hardware reliability, in order, goes something like: valvetrain - transmission - rotating assembly.OP - I would take your suggested setup to 8k daily driving and 8.5k in a "competition...

Stock suspension might be weaksauce but it is predictable, consistent, and reliable. On the track, it will be slow, but not dangerous - that one's up to the driver.On the other hand, you are looking for ebay products to go racing with. At the minimum, you've removed the elements of...

...should know that Tennessee isn't a far cry from Alabama. At least not to the rest of the world.

Did your friend offer an explanation other than insisting that it the TOB could not be the culprit?The fork pushes on the TOB, and the TOB pushes on the fingers which engage and release the clutch, so depending on the degree of degradation, it could certainly be the cause of your issues. If...

Damn, MrBoxx you have the patience of a saint.Sounds like OP bypassed the BCS and connected the hose to the WG to the hose going to the compressor cover. Just this little bit of extra airflow might cause extra boost leak and fuel cut.Go do a boost leak test. Like everyone suggested in...

Those without a DSM should not hate. :DIt took alot of wresting to get the hinge bolts to line up. Eventually got them, but it was a pain and I was worried about cross threading the entire time. Also, right side of the hatch lifts up. I don't really know how to fix this. You can tell if...

Quit hating on the Fit so much. You're just jealous of 40mpg and massive cornering grip. :thumb:

Thats why you should call me, foo!Thank god, no. Only hood, hatch, and roof. I sprayed the roof myself. Not bad for a rattlecan job, eh?EDM lights are hot but too 'spensive. Besides, I think I'm done ricing out my car for a bit. :DAnd mud flaps are the business.

You said you wanted to check fitment before you got serious about ordering. Asshole. :applause:What fender-fail?

I'll call JNZ and tell them to reserve a spot in their garage for a motor rebuild.

I'm no transmission expert but I'm pretty sure the tolerances in a semi and a sports car transmission are very different and this shouldn't be done.

If I remember correctly, the stock bolts are 6 point. You don't want to reuse them. Once they are stretched they should be tossed. No harm in getting some new ARPs in there. They are 12 point. Also might as well do all belts, pulleys, and water pump, camshaft seals, valve cover gasket while...

I'll take you up if you're offering to help install a meth kit, but I got a bit of my own magic for tuning. :D Right now it's at 25psi, so meth better take me beyond 30.

Both pieces are VIS. If I had to do it over again, I would recommend doing some research on other brands like Seibon. I'm having some fitment issues with the hatch (slightly visible in pictures).I will definitely be trying to make it out this year. No major mods since last time, but at...

Stick with stock if you can. It does a great job. The only reason you should want to change is if it doesn't fit (which is common with a big aftermarket turbo).

Thanks for the input guys. I ended up putting primer on the hatch only. I left about a 1/8" thick layer of urethane on the glass which I just urethaned over. I'm not worried about the glass coming off anytime soon. That primer stuff does NOT come off... ask me how I know.Results...

A few of you might recognize me and realized I haven't been around in a while. Truth be told, I haven't since I had taken my DSM as far as I wanted and was looking for a new project. However, since the weather's been getting warm, I slowly got the bug again. I just finished a CF hood and...

The primer that I have says for the glass and for anywhere bare metal is showing. I'm assuming that the urethane will bond well anywhere there is paint/clearcoat so I am a little hesitant to remove material.Right now the pinchweld area on the CF hatch is new, I just made sure it was clean...