I am 100% aware of that.

i never said anything about a poor idle, it idles fine when its warmed up, the poor idle when cold it because i dont have any idle controls on my TB, i eliminated them, im just asking if the coolant temp sensor is not hooked up, will it cause hard starting when cold....thats all.

you ever see a 2g temp sensor? ;)

not only deck it, have a mirror finish put on the surfaces as well.

^^^^ I definately agree. With all my experiences, i know it pays to pay the first time to do it right..otherwise you pay twice as much if it fails. I only did it because i needed to get it on the road ASAP and really didnt care as long as it ran, but it did run flawlessly. If your looking for...

If your confident and make sure you pay close attention to detail, i say why not. I also checked the crank with a mic just to make sure it wasnt out of round. I didnt really give to shits about the auto car, it was just to get me through winter..lol. But it worked and it worked fine. So it is...

Technically you can...BUT it is not the greatest idea. I have done it before in my Auto AWD 1g before. I bought the car locked up from massive overheating and i had a spare set of rods/pistons laying around. I ran a glaze breaker through the cylinders to get a fresh bite and put new rings and...

Check out my vehicle profile...2g, not 1g. ;) I wish it was a simple as a 1g, it would have been fixed already..just like i had to do to the last 5 1g's i owned..lol

Its not the fact that the temp sensor is bad...its just not hooked up, like i said when i posted, the broke dick that owned the car before me ripped the plug off the harness and when i did the swap i nevr had a plug to connect it.

i just did a 6 bolt swap into my new 2g and the broke dick that owned the car before ripped the coolant temp sensor plug off, thus it is not plugged in. It is a royal pain to start when its cold, probably takes about 5 minutes. Would that coolant temp sensor make it do that? I have the IAC and...

^^^^ The hotness.

Automatics come with 390's and a smaller turbo, the stock fuel map is a bit different. If you use that with 450's then its kind of the same effect as someone with a stock 5 spd, slapping in a set of 550cc injectors. Its still totally drivable but will run pretty rich.

For 1g's its a shot in the dark, some do, some dont. For 2g's all 95's had eproms, all years following did not but the later years (98-99) had the black plastic covered ecus, they are re-flashable like the EVOs.

I agree. Watch the crank pulley when the car is at idle to see if it wobbles. Did you get a new pulley fron Autozone? If so, what brand? If it was ATP then i can guarantee its shit becuase i had a brand new one on my car and a week later it came apart.

The only point i was making was that regardless of the quality of the prep, if there was any done at all (other that the surfaces being decked), 9 times out of 10 the cometic gasket worked better overall over the Mitsu one, for me at least. This only allpies to the regular cometic, i have used a...

Sure Johnny Cochran, but thats ONE instance, i can think of another handful of accounts other than mine that had problems, but arguing with you is like arguing with the gold medalist of the special olympics so ill stop trying. :cool:

yes, they do make longer rods, but not for a 2.0 application. The longer rods you are referring too are for de-stroked applications like the 2.1, you need the longer rod for the increased deck height with the 2.4 block, there is noone out there that makes a longer rod for a 2.0, it makes no...

Not really, it was done a few weeks ago, but he had assembled it with a felpro felt gasket and it started to push and overheated a few times...i was just informed of this as of my last post, i called him..lol. I didnt pay much atention to the fact becuase when i told him to have it re surfaced...

Wow...its little elemetary to have to explain how to install a headgasket...but i will say that i just talked the kid that i did the most recent install and i was under the impression that he had decked the head...he didnt, so that would be the reason for that. Im not going to get into an...

I dont, but i have told others that i have done work on to have that done after finding out about it a while back. I have only had one mitsu gasket not push coolant, another was with an o ringed head. I currently have the cometic, and every time i have used one or used it on a car i was putting...

6 bolt rods will not fit on 7 bolt crank, and vice versa. 91 rods are no longer than any other 4g63...not possible, if they were it wouldnt be a 2.0. All 1g rods are the same, all 2g rods are the same. Granite...the 1g rods are beefier but they retain the same length.

Not likely, and im not the only one that i have seen have issues. ;)

http://vfaq.com/index-main.html

Im about 4 hrs west..lol

I have NEVER had good luck w/ Mitsu gaskets...every application (both head and block were decked) they pushed coolant unless o ringed. Cometic gaskets have never given me any issues. I usually throw a thin coat of copper spray on both sides, i dont get too crazy with it though.

Yeah, because they can almost make them magically re appear from being on backorder...if they didnt go as fast as they come it may be realisitc to get it in a few days. Impatience... :nono:

put the stock eprom chip back in until you either get the chip re-burned or get the right maf setup.

ya, if you dont use the moly lube for some reason (highly recommended that you do) and use motor oil you need to torque them to like 130 lb/ft or something rediculous. i usually do mine to 100 tho with moly lube, especially with a mls head gasket. dont forget to let the car completely cool down...

would one quart of redline shockproof to 1.5 qts of synchromesh be too thick, and/or would they even mix? im on tranny number 3 and synchromesh alone isnt gonna cut it. im hoping some shockproof will help for now until i send my trans to shep this winter.

this is true, i had a 91 tranny in my 90 fwd and i had to adjust the linkage under the shifter boot and move the bracket around that bolts the cables to the tranny. it shifted like mud until i did that.

yai talked to a local machine shop that i usually have do my engine balancing and they said they could but they dont want to have to take more that .008 off of it. well see how bad it is i guess. thanks for the input.

slight rust and the last disk that touched it slipped for about 60 miles

is there any special way a pressure plate needs to be resurfaced, or is it even possible?

bpr7es plugs are very available, part number 2023. or you can get br7es plugs, same as bpr but not a projected tip, a little less prone to detonation but do not last as long.

i thought the same thing but AEM said over the phone not to hook it up to the 12v source for the EMS, they dont say that in the directions though.

that happened to my buddies evo because he hooked it up to the 12v source going to the EMS, chances are u just had it to the wrong 12v source. only thing is AEM doesnt specify or suggest a 12v source that wont make the gauge melt like that. his melted but wouldnt work either, unlike your case.

350 whp is nothing, i made 349 on 100 octane and a 14b. my buddies galant made 320 on C16 and 14b. if you can make 350 on a 14b, then im sorry my friends, its not that hard as long as you have a clue what your doing. as for the ebay kits...:notgood: . the manifolds arent that bad except for the...

sunoco like 5 mins from my house is strapped with 94 and 115 turbo blue. :thumb:

15w-50 mobil one here.

youd be fine with a 3''-2.5'' reducer and t-bolts. it wont hurt anything.

the block usually isnt too bad because its cast iron. The head is where most of the problem probably is becaus eits aluminum, obviously it warps easier. If you get the head decked you shouldnt have any problems with sealing the hg as long as you use copper spray.

ive always used 20w 50 regular oil for break in, run it through a heat cycle, let it cool completely, re-torque everything then go out for a drive. Usually in 3rd gear ill slowly let the rpms climb to like 6 grand then let it decelerate on its own until its down to a reasonable rpm, do this a...

correct..if you have a hot dog bun between your legs..... http://www.slowboyracing.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=49

a good 100 miles of stop and go driving should be suffice. i usually get about a undred on it and start ripping the shit out of it and i never have any problems. on my 2600 i drove about 20 miles and started launching the piss out of it, let it cool down and do it again and it worked great.

whoooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo Bitchez!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! OMG OMG OMG OMG

if maf was bad it would throw a CEL. do you have a logger to monitor your shit?

werd....a new tcu is on the way but for 2 months of just 3rd gear everything is still fine.

SBR for sure...id personally like to rock a 2.1 de-stroked myself

id put the BPR7ES plugs in regardless of it being stock or not.

as long as you didnt run into any water jackets your fine, it does look like you went a bit too far on the floor though, you should have just gasket matched it, that might hurt you a bit. u bette rplan on having a head built from hell with a monster snail and a 9 grand redline to get it to flow...