Purchased new from Straightlinespecialties in 2007. It’s a full TIG welded stainless steel twin scroll T4 manifold.Never used. It’s sitting collecting dust.Tial WGs are genuine and come with the manifold. Painted with 1500 degree black VHT. Asking $600. Less than half what I paid new.
Get a Sheet of viton rubber off Amazon. I use them for TB gaskets. Just use an exacto knife to trace the paper gasket and I put a socket in my press to punch out bolt holes.
With my eBay Evo4 FIAV, I will just remove the stock FIAV tubes and tap the holes for some threaded hose barbs to use. Those are all over eBay for dirt cheap compared to an OEM Mitsu housing. If the cheap ISC doesn’t work, a quality OEM piece still fits right in.
SBR race. The kit isn't the best fitting kit and I'm in the process of redoing the entire upper tubing. Also, make sure the endtanks don't crack at the welds.
Bilstein Touring Class shocks and Bilstein HD Class shocks are two completely different class of shocks. One is a factory replacement, the other can actually perform well.
The issue with the pie cut flares is that the top of the flare will end up being very pronounced and will taper into the stock body lines. Essentially allowing a good portion of the tire to be sticking out, with just the top being covered up. The original idea with a custom fitting flare is to...
My 05 Kia and my 11 Jeep Patriot both require 5w-20. Both are GEMA engines. I would trust what the engineers say FWIW.Also that's not a stock Mitsubishi oil cap.
After removing both sets of door panels this weekend, I was afraid I was going to have to make due with hardware store quality replacements. Thanks for the link!
Dang, and here I just talked the wife into letting me do a Koni/GC combo lolSo I know these are the best option for us now, I'm assuming Hotbits like pricing?
The fans being on 100% of the time, if they are not a high enough CFM, can cause an airflow blockage to the radiator while driving at highway speeds. Let the fans get controlled normally and see what happens.
I too have spent hours polishing one up, and that was just the flat easy parts. Once I had to start on the spark plug well, I said F it, then did a light scuff on the polished bits and painted it with high gloss black enamel.
Subscribed!Very good tip on the spot weld cutter, I never even thought of using one for that purpose. I was just going to take my grinder to town on those nubs in order to remove my baffles.
You should just take out a personal loan through your bank and pay the remainder in cash. Auto loans are a PITA to deal with, with all of those restrictions on them.
No i'm just trying to figure out why you want to enter your car in the slow class. Maybe your reading comprehension is that bad, I don't ####ing know.Then again since you want to throw out insults, I won't let those get to me. I would love to see you run 8s at the shootout. I suggest...
BRACKET 1 (B1)
-This is a handicapped start class for cars running between 0-12.99 seconds.
-ANYTHING goes as long as it is Mitsubishi powered OR is a Mitsubishi bodied car with the OEM engine in it.
-On your windshield you will put in large print, B1 followed by the number from your tech...
For extra oil filter clearance you could always get a remote filter mount. I have my filter mounted where the washer reservoir used to be. Good luck with the project.
The 1g 7 bolt isn't that bad of a crutch as people first thought, it's just too many people immediately swap it out for a 6bolt (I went with a 2.4 G4CS) before making an real power on them. So really pick the body you like and build around it. Brakes, Transmissions, Wiring, Rear Diffs, those...
I love both. I want a black 90-91 GSX to match my 93 TSi. Those two have been my alltime favorite DSM bodies. 3rd would be a Black 2Gb TSi, gotta love the thong spoiler!