I completly agree with the fact that most evo sites are no where near as helpful as this site. im a previous dsm owner and when i got my evo i was super pissed that i really couldnt stay part of this community.
well the car took its last and final dump on me and has now been replaced with and 03 Evo 8. So i just wanted to say good bye, for now at least . I plan on gutting my elipse and making a full out drag car over the coarse of the next 3 years. But for the time being i will be spending most of my...
well the car took its last and final dump on me and has now been replaced with and 03 Evo 8. So i just wanted to say good bye, for now at least . I plan on gutting my elipse and making a full out drag car over the coarse of the next 3 years. But for the time being i will be spending most of my...
this started about a week ago, when im driving or just at idle when i push the clutch in and let it out a little, when i give it gas i feel this weird clicking feeling in the pedal going with the rotation of the motor. i dont know what it is so if anyone has any idea let me know.
well turns out that it was something pretty stupid my negative battery connecter was cracked under neath so it wasn't grounding properly so thats fixed now and everything is good.I appreciate the fast responses though.
ok when i went to start it last night it started real slow like the battery was dying, but my volt meter read 13.5v so i know that the battery wasnt dead. So i come out this morning to go to work and the car starts to do what it did last night but then stops and its just clicking, checked the...
well when i do the boost leak test the system is not being presurized to 60 psi, i keep an eye one the boost gauge and usually stop about 15psi. I still havnt retested the actuator yet just been so bussy, hopefully tonight ill be able to get to it.
well maybe i should of been more clear on what i did.What i did was i disconected the vacumn line from the wga and just presurized it with the air compressor and it opened right up, but now that i think about i guess it would open up with the compressor and 60 psi. So looks like im going to...
i know for a fact that the washers are not preloading the diaphram, when the washers are out, the WGA sits about an 1/8in away from the turbo about the size of the washers.
well i checked to make sure the wg was opening wich it was the one thing i wanted to make sure was if the flapper itself should open up the full 90deg. or the 45deg wich it opened?
Before i put the washers in the actuator would sit about 1/8 in. from the turbo when i bolted the actuator to the turbo it would force the flapper open at first i thought it was the actuator so i took the one of my 16g and put it on and it did the same thing so i dont know whats up cause i put...
one thing i did do was about 2 weeks ago i noticed that my wastegate wasn't closing all the way so i put some washers between were the actuator mounts to the turbo, i put enough so the flapper would close and stay closed could this be and issue? cause it was fine until the other day.
it is an internal style wg but its not stock i got the turbo from fp awhile ago its a 38mm wg, turbo has been ported and all that. It doesn't even stop at 12 it justs shoots to 20psi.
My mods are in my profile, so heres whats up. I was running just 12psi everything was going fine except for some boost leaks fixed those and after that the car doesn't boost at 12 it just goes up to 20 and jerks around. I tried a bunch of stuff like removing the mbc and running the wg to a...
well i did use jb weld its possible i didnt use enough, where did you purchase the indian head because i dont think you can order it directly from permatex. Does Napa, Kragen, or Auto Zone carry it?
ok so i installed the balace shaft eliminator kit the other day, got it all done and took the car around the block, came back and did a boost leak test and the next thing i know the freeze plug you get with the kit pops off and i have a massive oil leak. I know why it poped out and...
Well as far as head gaskets go i would recomend the Mitsubishi Metal 4G63 Head Gasket. I have one and have had one for awhile and i love it, Its a real quality piece.
Well i never said that i had a tuning device i said i was going to get one. And as far as the injectors go i was under the impression that 750s or (780's) were all i needed, so are u sure that 850's arn't too much?But getting back on point, you did answer the question at hand wich was wether...
Ok my mods are in my profile, and what im doing is im about to order my afpr and pte
780cc Injectors. Now i plan on running DSMLink but dont have the money for it right now. So i guess my obvious question will be will i be ok for now on 12-15psi.
well when it wasnt connected it was still in the car, but as far as the gauge not working i was thinking that was the problem originally just wanted to get some opinions.
well the gauge is reading lean not rich, as a matter of fact i know im running a lilttle rich.And no it doesn't read wideband voltage because i had it hooked up before and it worked properly.
air/fuel gauge not working properly, i thought it was the way it was wired but i went through and rewired it all and it still doesn't work right. Its a autometer phantom series, and what its doing is it won't go past lean its stays on the first three lean LEDS. and yes im letting it worm up and...
so i was doing a boost leak test the other day and everything was good except i noticed thers was air coming out the oil cap and led me find out that inside my valve cover was being presuized, so does this mean i got a leak in my valve seal?
The code is P1400 Manufacturer Specific Powertrain Trouble Code. Now i've searched but everyone else with the P1400 code is the mdp. So if anyone has any ideas let me know.
well i did another boost test and oh my god was there so many leaks i fixed them all but the injector seal leak i had to order from sbr cause its a damn dealer order! But it runs much better, but i will be posting soon cause i think theres another problem but i wont get in to it yet.oh and...
ok so now theres a new symptom, i got home from work and i noticed it was acting funny so i was reving the motor and when i let go the rpms would fall past idle and almost die then go back to idle, So i revied it like to 5000 and when i did that it did die.Now to me this sounds like a boost...
I know i need a afpr,injectors, and a way to control them but i dont have the money right now. The knock sensor is still there i just got to wire the clip back in which will be my little project for tommorow, i was just having a hard time finding the wire in the wiring harness. I just wanted to...
i rebuilt the motor and everything has been fine but this and its been this way sense the beging of the rebuild. Whats happening is when i try to hit boost it hults feels like a fuel cut or something. Now my original thought was because i have an 18g with no supporting fuel mods but a walboro...
i had herd alot of good things about the 2g xs kit so 5 days ago i ordered it, i payed $315 shipped. Im really looking forward to getting it im just really unpacient. For those of you who got them how long did it take to get to u?
yeh well i have to drive it because its my only way of getting to work. My works like 15 miles away so theres no choice but to drive it. It will probably be about 2 weeks before i can get it fixed.Oh and by the way i appreciate all the help
well right now im very broke, the last bit of money i had i spent on my fmic kit so will it be ok to drive without causing further damage to the turbo and any damage to the motor?
yeh thats what my buddy thought, i was just hoping against it sense it was brand new, oh well.
So does anyone know of a good place to get rebuild parts?
Well heres whats up, the other night me and my buddy went for a nice drive through the mountains, well about half way through i noticed my car being real laggy so we pulled over and i popped the hood. The turbine housing was red hot literally. So i figured something was up so we heded home. Got...
Well its not exactly over heating as much as its just running to hot. I've replaced the thermastat with a 180deg., changed coolant, Fluidyne Radiator, And slimline fan. Cars operates at about 210 with the heater on full blast when i turn the heater off it gets even hotter.I have no idea...
I disconnected my Air/Fuel Gauge for a couple of days cause i had to do some stuff and it was in the way, and when i reconnected it, it would come on but not really work. It says im running all the way lean and every once and awhile it moves to the second leand LED.
And i know its supposed to...
Ok i apologize for causing a panic i guess i should of said this earlier, the car does not run right now the motor was rebuilt and i am awaiting on a auto tensioner before i can start it. The Dsm link will be my fuel control as soon as i get paid.I was just trying to figure out a general are...