I always left my car in gear with the parking break on. That is until in my newest dd the previous owner mentioned that the car had remote start if i just got it hooked up and the next day i accidentally hit the button in my pocket and the car started and ended up in a garden :ohdamn:
I haven't posted here in ages but i'll join in. This is Darla. She's a 2-4 y.o. pit/terrier mix i adopted about a year ago.Her sitting positions amuse the eff outta me ROFLAny of you pit/terrier owners have any training tips? This is my first dog and damn can she be hard...
I dont see the irony myself. If he told the kid up front there's an oil leak and the kid wasn't intelligent enough to take care of it or at least check on the oil level frequently knowing it was leaking then it's his own fault.
Actually had you taken the time to read his posts in the other thread you would have noticed he clearly stated he told him but let me throw it up for you just to save you the trouble
Yes it will affect performance. The cams in the NT are not designed for a motor with forced induction like what you currently have. Yours are more aggressive.
You neglected to say wether or not your making sure to get the air out from behind the slave cylinder. Have a friend come help you. One of you climb under the car and close the slave by hand then have the someone else push on the clutch to get the fluid flowing through the whole system.
Pull the boot off and check as i haven't done it in a few years. Don't forget to reach over and close the slave cylinder while your bleeding the clutch. A bubble of air can get trapped behind there if you just leave it open.
The clutch pedal is more of a 1g problem. 2g's don't have the z bar set up like a 1g does so there really isnt anything to wear out.You can try adjusting the shift cables to help with getting it in 2nd and reverse but that obviously won't help with your spongy clutch pedal. Are you making...
I'm also running one in my stroker though im not making anywhere near 800hp. I've got about 1800 miles on it so far. Personally i went with it because i was dead set on using a brand new crank for the motor and i got it for 40 bux less than the new mitsu cranks i could find.
It depends on what your talking about being measured. For a boost gauge you want to tap the line into a source after the throttle body. But for a mbc you want to tap something closer to the turbo.
I was running a BB 50 trim on my stock 6 bolt for about 20k. I finally fried the ring in cylinder 1. But my compression was only 136 across the board to begin with well before the 50 went on. It was only a matter of time before i broke something in there. I did however make 363 awhp and 323...
New set up is in so it's time to report in again2.3l
unhacked 2g mas
ported 2g head w/ 1mm OS valves
cyclone that is running all 8 runners all the time right now
272's
3076r52.7 lbs/min @ 24 psi. It was about 35 degrees out as well.
Short runners are better for top end not low/mid. Longer runners help keep the velocity of the air up at lower engine speeds. Top end doesnt need to worry about keeping the velocity up since your then making the velocity. The stock manifold out performs just about every aftermarket one in the...
You will be able to simply pay a fee and upgrade form v2 to v3 much like you could going from v1 to v2. I believe it was only 50 bux to go to v2 but no price has been stated about upgrading from v2-v3 yet.
Give them a call and ask. Im pretty sure they actually had a couple in stock. 215-997-6850 If you were to bring them to the thread about porting above the wastegate hole and said you wanted it like that they would do it for you.
Ummm just about any intake set up will work. They can make you something other than that CAI you see on their site. They made me a 3" one that just went to the stock location.
You need to do more research and less talking :nono: . A 50 trim @ 20 psi is quite a happy turbo to play with on pump gas. Go ahead, ask me how know. A 2100 is a very acceptable clutch for the kind of fwhp he's looking to get. He already stated he doesnt intend on going to the track much so...
You just said your problem right there man. All of this started after the VC job you did. If that's not tightening in because its stripped the you've got a big leak right there. Fix that first then go from there.
No you shouldn't have to change your downpipe. Just the o2 housing. Punishment should probably have the right one for you to switch to t3 depending on which flange you get the turbo for. I'd also have to say go full garret. It will give you alot more options down the line not to mention a...
I was the same way about rerouting at first. Then i got my ex. dump and it kinda grew on me. I like that the car sounds like a harley as its screamin up the road.
It's not larger just by runners 1 & 2. It's larger all the way through short of the actual TB flange. That's just where the difference is most noticable.
Dont blame that on the turbo. There are other factors contributing to you low numbers. I made 33 more hp than you on the same boost level with a motor that only had 110 psi across the bored.
I dont have any info on your main question. But i've got to ask. Why can't you just tell him you want the race version for a 2g and he'll make it for you. Jim builds those manifolds all day long. I'm certian if you wanted something he didn't happen to have sitting on the shelf, he'd make it...
I dont understand why regular boost leak tester won't work. Is it because it's too small for the new turbo? You really need to get one that works or your new set up.
I third this statement. Especially once you get past your basic bolt ons.Chris i didn't know you frequented over here as well. Too much free time on your hands now that it isn't 2 hours each way to work?
Shimming the pivot ball is a ghetto fix. Sure it works, but it's not the RIGHT way to fix the problem if this is the case. If you need to shim it then chances are it's because it's gotten worn over time and the top of the ball is no longer at the original height. How about you just replace...
You might save money in the begining, but not all that much. Certianly not enough to justifiy taking away the peace of mind of knowing you properly rebuilt the engine. You do understand that not doing the machining there could quite probably leave you with less compression compared to if you...
Since i noticed dsm90awd posted up about putting a sheet metal plenum on a stock manifold i figured i'd post this up since we are dealing with a cyclone here. I'm not going to retype all the info, instead i'll post the link to my thread on talk. I have one here too but it doesn't have nearly...
I've got no complaints about it so far. I think if i try to go alot further it might start to become a bit of a restriction. But for the price i couldn't find a better quality kit.
I run this kithttp://www.extremeintercoolers.com/1g_eclipse_intercooler_kit_street.htmlNo cutting of the bumper or support at all. You do have to enlarge the D ports on either side of the radiator for the piping to run through but thats it.
I believe the fp30's are all a 4" inlet. But don't quote me on that.As for numbers on a BB 50 trim. The numbers in my sig are @ 22psi on a motor with 110 compression across the board running 93 oct. and meth. A better running motor would have obviously bumped that up a good ammount.
The FP30 turbos are all designed to run a wastegate off the 02 housing. I'm sure you could come up with something to block off the wastegate outlet on the turbo if you really wanted to. They will bolt up to and mitsu flanged exhaust manifold.The green will bolt right up to your current setup.
No the green is not a dual BB turbo. Either can probably get you to your power goals. I'd have to lean towards FP because of personal issues with SBR. There are several other 50 trim variants out there. You don't have to limit yourself to just these 2.
I found the thread in the lounge about the guy making a different plenum for the stock manifold. Not exactically the same as he did it to a US spec manifold and cut and welded a new plenum on.I recieved my manifold and i dropped it off at JMF last night. Got to talk with Jim and Brent...
Your missing one very big purpose here. Methanol or alcohol will raise the octane of the gas your using. Hence more boost and timing like if you were running race gas but still only pay for 93 at the pump.One other quick thought on running all three. I don't see how it would be any...
They all run through the same system. Water has very high heat dissapation properties so it cools the intake charge as well as steam clean the inside of the motor. Methanol has good heat dissapation properties as well as some obscenely high octane rating so it will coll the intake charge and...
I dont see why you couldn't. But it wouldn't be one today and the other tomorrow. The water injection would be full time. Your going to have to tune accordingly for it so if you turned it off to run nitrous your going to have to adjust for that and the nitrous instead of just the nitrous...
I'd have to think that nitrous would give you more power per shot. But it is more expensive in the end.WI helps you maximize your setups potential. Especially if your running pump gas. You'll be able to run more boost and timing without knock. It will lower your intake temps, raise the...