Shipping to Australia still seems to be pretty expensive.
$97.40 to ship a Walbro E85 pump. Doesn't seem like the shipping price has changed much down here if at all?
That plug has a plastic clip on both sides. There is no circlip for that one. It's the wiring for the shift solenoids.
I'd pull the pan and change the filter and pop the fitting back into place.
Check the wiring to the solenoids while your in there.
I'd unbolt that engine/trans spacer plate to make sure that it lines up properly on the auto.
I also use nickel anti seize on the pilot bushing where the converter centres.
I've been trapping around 130 on a 165000 mile stock bottom end 6 bolt for a few years now.
No idea what power it's making but it's in a VR4 so there must be a decent amount there!
I tend to keep the afr a little on the fat side just to be safe and tune for zero knock.
I've got a 46mm pte wastegate on mine. No other option but to weld the flange on with that.
This is simply a case of a manufacturer using anything that they can to avoid honouring a warranty.
Pretty poor form in my opinion.
I'm running a PTE 6262 on an erl manifold on a VR4 and as Justin mentioned I found just hacking the mount the easiest option. My line is -12 too so there would be plenty of clearance for your -10. I actually wouldn't run anything smaller than -12 on that turbo myself but I guess plenty of people...
You also have the exhaust figures mixed up. It opens at 38 and closes at -2.
It would seem that you are approx 11 crank deg out on it.
I'm going to be doing my BC280's soon in the car and will be using the degree wheel mounted upside down as suggested by the OP.
Good luck with it!
I had mine fitted up to a stock manifold with the to4sp front cover when I first fitted it. I had to beat the water pipe pretty bad to get it on though.
I've uploaded this one but I did have anything to edit i with. Start it at about the 1:15 marker.
Sorry for the quality!YouTube - ‪Willowbank in car GVR4‬‏
I do have a couple of in car videos that I can edit and add. They show the tach and boost gauge fairly well considering the runs were at night.
It does seem to pull well right through to 8000 in 4th ( that's what I went through the traps at)
I took mine out on the weekend and ran 11.5 @ 128.73 on a stock block GVR4.It's put on 34mph in the top end after running 7.67 at the 1/8 marker at 94.67. :hellyeah:I'm happy enough with the top end but I really need to learn how to drive this thing properly off the line...
I'm thinking that the nice large return is making a positive difference for these. I run 3/4 welded pipe fittings on mine with the -12 hose pushed over it. I also do not have any drastic bends in the return line. It has a nice gentle curve from the turbo to the sump.
Just did a quick read through on that thread link, thanks for that.
Results were
5 total failures.
2 of which were admitted user error in installation.
17 total have not failed.Note: I did not count individual turbos for either failures or successes. They ratio remains about the same though...
^^ do you have a link to the thread?
I've looked and couldn't see it.Seems strange to me that my JB 5031 and 6262 have both lived just fine and other people have problems when I followed PTE's instructions about max oil pressure etc.
I had the 5031 on for years before going with the 6262.
And I have months on a 6262 JB with multiple 1/4 mile runs. Still running perfectly. I beat on the car pretty well and NEVER see less than 32psi when I drive it.
IF you set them up with the correct oil pressure and drain there seems to be no problem with them.Don't you just love it when...
You don't think that the thrust issue may have been caused in part because you fed the oil from the head?
It's just that I'm running a JB 6262 fed from the oil filter housing with a -12 drain ( no AN fittings so it is actually -12 hose size the way through ). I never see more than 70psi at wot...
I run an S90 on my JMF intake. It's 70mm with no taper and all I had to do was to port the inlet hole on the manifold to suit.
PM me and I can let you know where I bought mine from if you think it will do the trick for you.
Actually Justin, I'd say Email them. That way you have instructions and recommendations from them in writing. They can't really argue that you mistook what was said that way!This is what I got back from them when I asked about oil supply etc for my old 5031.
Interesting.
I have a 6262JB as well and mine seems to be just fine.
I have a -4 feed from the ofh with a -12 drain ( made up of -12 hose a 3/4 pipe at each end keeping a decent diameter inside the return )
I also have oil pressure that idles at just under 20psi and I never see more than 70 -...
I purchased a new Magnus rail not that long ago and the mounting points look nothing like yours. Mine is a complete one piece rail with the mounts machined in as one piece.
Sorry if this pic is a tad large, I couldn't work out how to make it smaller :banghead:
Which PTE turbo?: 5031 Journal Bearing
Balance shafts?: Yes
Ported OFH?: Yes
Where are you sourcing oil from?: OFH
Size of feed line and restrictor?: -4 No Restrictor
Has the turbo blown?: No
How many miles did it or is it lasting?: 5000+ and over 3 years
I could be wrong but your fuel flow seems to be rising nicely right through the lean area. Have you tried bumping up the area in the SD map that correlates to the lean RPM section? There isn't anything stopping you from going up over 100 on the VE.
What calculations did you do to work out the injector compensation figure to use?
For the 1200's that you have listed I get -44 and yours seem to be a lot different to that at -20?
Did you get installation instructions with it? Mine clearly stated to run the feed from the OFH when my 6262 JB unit arrived last month.
I ran my 5031 JB unit for over 2 years with no problem from the OFH but I did port it out to drop the oil pressure after receiving this advice direct from...
Yep, happened back in March. I think they are waiting for you stateside boys to catch up :D
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/drag-strip/362744-speedtech-dave-stock-new-world-record.html
Been there, done that. No boost leaks that I can find. Holds 30psi no problem.
No Maf, I'm running SD.
I'm just happy the old girl is performing nicely now :hellyeah:
I thought 50+ was weird too but everything in dsmlink seems to line up correctly.
I'll attach a log for you to have a look at. I know that it does feel pretty bloody fast though :D
I'm quite interested in hearing real world results from people that have gone this route with the new Precision billet turbos as well.
I have been thinking of buying either a 6057 or 6262 and was going to start out with the Mitsubishi housing and move onto a T3 later when time/money permits...
As Street Surgeon said one of the guys over at Team4g did a comparison on these a while back.
Have a read...
WARNING: FAKE WALBROS IN CIRCULATION + VIDEO COMPARISON! - Team4G
Normally you need to pull the box apart to get the selector shaft out to change that seal.
Fantastic design.... NOT!
You could try this, I'm about to try exactly the same thing on mine...
If you just want to change the ratio then I would just put change over the ring and pinion to the ones from the 3 bolt. You will need to get it re-shimmed though so I would get an expert to do it.
I have the Red 6 puck disc and 2 x PP and my disc has the springs completely enclosed. I'll try to get a pic up when I get home tonight.
Dsmlink has mine rated at approx 400 atw.
Showing off now Aldo!! ROFL
Still look nice no matter how many times i've seen it mate!
The US guys won't know what an XB is either.... maybe you should add a photo or 2.