does anyone know what 4g63 stands for, like what does the different letters and # represent?:confused:

does anyone know where to get a short throw shifter for a 1g on line

does any one know what the two front speaker sizes are in a 90 laser (the door and dash)

i never posted it but my problem was cracked exhaust housing. got a new one and havent had a problem since. :thumb:

really you dont say, i knew that. what i ment was is there a difference in that actual bolts, as in the thread count, length and size.

whats the difference in the flywheel bolts for a 6 bolt and a 7 bolt motor, i am getting ready to do a swap. i havent got the engine out, but i wana have everything ready so i can do the swap this weekend. thanks for the help.

might possibly be head gasket, have you checked for coolant in the oil, and oil in the coolant?

thats the thing, i dont have a logger to tune with all i have is a volt meter to read the o2 voltage, and an afc. i am starting to learn how to tune with it, the thing is though i thought that with a 14b 15 psi was max with stock injectors, and rewired pump, and a s16g is a little bigger. i...

i dont think thats very good advice, this is a larger than stock turbo, 15 is pushing it on a 14b, and i have my mas hacked so i would not necessarily hit fuel cut, i was told about 12 psi the other day after i posted this. can anyone back this up can i run a little more than 12. thanks.

by the way i am wondering how much boost on 93 pump gas.

DO NOT USE FUEL LINE, learn from my experences i blew out a few before relizing what i really needed was hydrolic line, you can get it at carquest and probobly advanced. the fuel hose deteriorates from the oil so fix it once instead of twice like me.

i just got a slightly used 16g and was wondering what boost i could run with stock 450 injectors, and stock re wired pump? i have an afc and am working on tuning it now. also the turbo came with a 2g o2 sensor, i was wondering if i could cut the wire and just splice on my 1g plug. the 2g o2 is...

i got the tranny from some guy in california, i put it in myself. i have been told that my center diff is gone when it does the weird wheel spinning thing. so i am going to try to have that welded and see what happens. you read that part i typed about the shift levers being different sizes...

here is the number that is etched into it kw5m332npxv ln2325, let me know something so i know if i need to change the gears. thanks.

im not at home now so i cant get the numbers off of it but i will. but with the levers i thought it was kinda odd at first but the horizontal lever that is held in place by the pin seemed to be from a 91+ it was a longer lever, and the vertical lever that is bolted on seemed to be the longer...

how can you tell what kind of tranny you have, i recently bought a tranny and it seems like it might be a galant gsx tranny, when i back up the back wheels kinda want to slip some and it seems like it doesnt want to move very easily. the guy told me it was a 92 awd tranny, i think i might have...

it has held fine for me. after the guy welded it on he beat it with a hammer to see if it would come off, and it didnt. im not sure of the kind of welder her has, but it did work for me.

all 90's are e-prom

Now thats a resenator:thumb:

no thats not the resinator, thats the flex section. the resinator is along the exhaust system, it looks like a bulge in the piping. Its probobly more twords the middle to back of the car. you would need to weld a piece of pipe in after cutting it out.

i went to the store and got a straigt 2 in piece of pipe, cut off the stock muffler, cut one of the tips off the stock muffler(its a resinator tip) welded it to the end of the piece of pipe, and the piece of pipe where the muffler was. it sounds really deep and throaty, not like a 4 banger at...

where did that come from that was pretty random.

i would have to say stock rims are more along the line of 25lbs, the stock 97-99 5 spoke rims weigh 19lbs and they are the lightest stock wheels dsm's have. i have a set of 17's that weigh 48lbs w/ tires thats heavy.

i did it withought one, all i did was assemble everything where it was suposed to go and jacked the lower controll arm up till i could get the nut on, the i relized that you got the 40 bucks back when you rent the spring compressor. so go rent one it would make shit alot easyer i experenced the...

zip tie test:confused: explain, i dont have a clue and am sure some other people dont eather. thanks

i have a set of the stock 14's on my car and they fit. but if you have the bigger brakes i dont know if they would fit, its a close fit on my car with the single piston brakes.

yeah i know about the taboo speed shop camber kit, but its like 60 bux. has anyone ever just cut the lower controll arms? i have heard you can just cut like 1/4" off of it and weld it back together, any ideas on this? i have the resources to do this and it would be alot cheeper. but at the...

i have seen that with a 2g all you need for the rear is some washers and a longer bolt, is this the same with a 1g? can i just make a "home depot" camber kit for the rear? i did a 2in drop by the way. thanks for the help. *EDIT* btw i tryed to search, so please dont tell me to search, after...

well i have heard about 400 for the 4g63, and 28 psi of boost max.

what do you mean it takes to long? get a ratchet (1/2") and a really long braker bar, get someone to step on the brakes hard, and stand on that shit. then your done:thumb:

usualy no, but you dont need the jdm ecu

why would you wana do this, its not just crankwalk the 6 bolt is stronger.

like i said if you dont have to pass emmisions do this, http://www.taboospeedshop.com/emissions1.htm if you dont have a mbc yet just leave the line a straight piece of hose, you can get the tee fitting from a hardware store. but if you wana keep it stock with all the vacume lines there is a...

well you should have said 2g, if you dont have to pass emmisions i would just remove all the vacume lines, i cant say for sure where all your lines go or whatever, but im willing to bet that the way you have it set up your w/g is not opening at all. that taboo site has the elemination for a 2g...

well here you go then, this is how the boost gauge should be tapped, http://myzero.com/gauges/boost.html hope that helps, but that vacume line elimintion is something to look into, helps reduce boost leaks, and removes some of the bullshit. if you dont have a mbc then you can leave that line off...

take them apart, af far as i have heard they make no aftermarket ones for the 95-96

i wouldnt blame it on defiant, i would blame it on all the flamers, defiant is a good guy imo. he always gives good advice too.

http://www.taboospeedshop.com/emissions.htm here you go have fun:thumb: , and search next time i know i have posted this vacume line thing atleast a million times.

setting the timming on these cars helps some, but from what i have heard from other people is that the computer controlls most of the timming and adjustst it as necessary. but im one of thoes guys that set mine by myself, not like it can hurt.

go to partznet.com and remember this sight, its saintain at a portion of the price:thumb:

i got one word for ya, rebuild. leave the jdm stuff for the honda guys. all you get by going jdm is like 10 hp, and then you dont know for sure how long the motor is going to hold up. i think you will be much happier with a rebuild.

a friend of mine has a stock cd chnager, and amp he might sell, just let me know if you want it and ill ask him.

dont waste your money, go to machv.com and check out the 2g weighted lether knob. its only 22 bux and feels damn good. makes shifting easyer because its weighted, and it threads on not that ### alen wrench stuff.

vacume line elimination http://www.taboospeedshop.com/emissions.htm :thumb:

i have a 1.8 w/ 140,xxx on it, still running strong.

i dont think hes saying dont ever boost in first, hes just saying dont do it all the time, i mean ofcourse you have to boost in first when racing. and i would listen to this guy, he always seems to give accurate knowledge.