People are in the 10s and 9s with the dsmlink, draw your own conclusions ...

DSMLINK eliminates the need to "fool" the ecu by altering the airflow reading, using a VPC/GCC with the dsmlink doesn't really make sense. I recommend using a GM MAF/MAFT with the link, it works very well. You still need the translator to make it work, but generally most people with that setup...

You need to ignore the dowels and pay attention to the slots on the gears and make sure they are parallel and pointing at each other.

The two narrow slots on the cam gears are supposed to be horizontal and line up with each other and the bottom of the valve cover, I usually take a small screwdriver and stick it in there to be sure they line up. You also have to remove the lower timing cover and be sure the lower marks line up...

I would point out that DSMLINK is *NOT* an AFC, you are modifying the fuel and timing maps in the ECU instead of "fooling" the ECU to read lower than normal air readings like you do with an AFC. The DSMLINK user's guide is freely downloadable from their webpage, read through it to see more about...

Installing a FMIC is not a "basic mod" in most cases, there is going to be at least some amount of modification to get the intercooler to fit, or to route piping around something. I did have to use a cutting torch on the bumper, but I was prepared and had the tools on hand to do it. Not...

With the GM MAF installed in blow-through I am getting a huge leak from the MAF itself, the car starts to run like crap when the boost comes on, air is pouring out from the thing around where the plastic connector box comes out of the MAF clamshell. I took it apart and I don't think it's sealing...

I wanted an o2 housing w/external gate and heard decent things about the VPE housings so I bought one of them set up to dump atmosphere. I ordered it directly from Scott back in March. It took a very long time to get the thing, he lost my order, then another two and a half weeks after that...

You will at least have to remove the crankshaft and take it to a shop to verify that it is not damaged - it would make sense to have the crankshaft polished if it is still within specs and install new bearings while you're in there.

I was told by a very knowledgable mitsu service manager (and DSM mechanic) to do the following:1. Start the car and let it idle high (2000 or so) for 20 min. This allows you to check for leaks or anything else that might be wrong, and of course if something was done badly wrong during the...

I'm an electrical engineer. I migrated towards the electromagnetics fields area though, so I don't do circuits or microelectronics (though I am competent with a soldering iron). I work with radar systems and radar cross section (and write software for radar cross section and stealth prediction...

If you read the dsmlink manual (free on their site) it shows you how to manually change the global fuel compensation and dead time.

I installed a walbro fuel pump a while back and had no initial problems, however all of a sudden the fuel pressure started to *drop* as the car made boost (this is why we all have gauges right? :D). I pull the fuel pump assembly out tonight and the strainer is clogged full of what looks like...

Antiseize, Antiseize, Antiseize. Used it during my motor rebuild and it was definitely worth it, took manifold-to-turbo bolts out with minimal effort and no damage to threads or turbine housing.

For anyone wondering how it fits, here it is on my motor with the 20G installed .. I ended up with a SS oil feed line though, the stock feed line as shown didn't fit right and was taken off after that picture was taken. The rest of the lines to and from the turbo fit okay.

It seems like one heater hose bursts, then they all start to go bad .. I'd inspect the rest of them too while I was at it. I learned this the hard way!

That is the clip that goes on the oil pressure gauge sending unit, clip it back on.And yep, you have an oil leak, start wiping it up and try to locate where the source is, if you can. If it's a constant, steady drip, you need to find the leak NOW :thumb:

I have a box of bolts that came off my car and friend's cars, usually if I need a bolt I look through the box until I find one that fits. If you don't have any spares like that, try a bolt from somewhere in the engine compartment (AC tiedown, throttle cable, etc) until you find one that fits...

The eliminator kits come with a stubby shaft for the rear (attached with the oil pump gears), however nothing goes in the front location besides the blockoff bearing and the plug in the front case.

There are not any DSM specific shops here in town, but there are a lot of very knowledgeable people that can help you work on your car. You can PM me for more info.

The topline front case is far cheaper and is virtually identical to the Mitsu one, you'll have to use a magnifying glass to see any differences ...

I did not have to do anything to the oil return line; it is a tight one, but it fits without leaks.

I just got through breaking in the new motor, so I never ran the 20G above 6 or 7 psi of boost on the SMIC. :thumb:

With the motor in the car, and with the crankshaft still installed, it will be difficult or impossible to install the blockoff bearing (like the previous poster mentioned). It was not easy to install with the motor upside down on the engine stand, I can't imagine trying to do it lying upside...

http://www.raxles.comReplacing CV joints is easy, just buy the kit, follow the instructions and be sure to have a lot of rags around to wipe up the grease.

Like he said, you can keep the A/C, however the AC line on the driver's side will need to be repositioned to make room for the IC pipe. I didn't feel like bending (and probably breaking) the stock A/C line so I just got rid of the A/C altogether.

If you had the service manual you would already know the answer."advancing" is the correct answer, though.

This is the TD06-20g, I have one on my car too:

Fixing that kind of problem would be nearly impossible without removing the crankshaft, that's too bad :|

I used a topline water pump and oil pump during my rebuild and used the gaskets that came with them, everything is just fine :thumb:

And both of these can be easily double checked once you have the block home from the machine shop, assuming you are doing the assembly yourself.

In my rebuild I did the same pistons and overbore and dialed up 170 psi across after breakin.

That looks like it was caused by improper machine work and assembly. Like the previous poster mentioned, you should have taken the motor back to them after the initial break in when the compression numbers did not dial up as expected. Why you ran it at the track anyway with those bad (especially...

A 2G MAS needs the honeycombs to operate properly .. This is a little different than the 1G MAS which has the lower and upper honeycombs.

If you have reason to even think that the timing belt isn't installed right, why not double check it and save yourself the possibility of a head full of bent valves?

And you took the honeycombs out why? You wanted the car to run badly on purpose?

Has NO ONE compared, side by side, a 6-bolt block, the 7-bolt block, and the EVO block? Even looking at them briefly would get you most of the key differences made to the bottom end! Doing this would help end the "maybe the EVO motor is fixed in the bottom end" speculation and provide some hard...

The pressure line on the driver's side would have needed to be redone/rerouted and I didn't want to suffer through that so I just pulled the A/C. It really cleans up the engine bay :thumb:

Yep, that roller sure isn't touching a cam, or anything else for that matter

Greddy oil pressure sensor.

I couldn't get the bolt through the hole regardless of whether I had the elbow on or off the car.The turbo is a 20G. :thumb:

The TB elbow that came with the kit is "misaligned" slightly compared to the angle of the lower pipe but it went together okay, the silicone couplers bend a little bit and take the slack out of it .. they aren't kinked or anything. The only complaint I have about the kit is that you have to use...

Finally all the parts came in and I got the SBR street kit installed. I still need to figure out what I'm going to do with the PS lines (I think I am going to use a length of fuel hose to replace the PS loop) but once I do that and get the bumper and stuff put back on I'm good to go. I decided...

It is good to hear that more and more fabricators are starting to employ titanium. I say this because the reason titanium is so expensive is that it's ridiculously hard (read: expensive) to refine it from raw ore. Way harder that it is to make aluminum. The price of titanium is coming way down...

I've decided to remove the A/C completely. Since it's not my daily driver it won't be a big deal. It'll save a little weight, too.

If it's a 4G63-T block it should have a set of oil squirters, reuse those ...

I am going to have to cut the a/c line and use fuel hose to reroute it around the FMIC pipe but if I do this, it will fit. Barely, but it fits. :thumb:

Already did a lot of pushing on stuff but didn't want to start breaking things ..

I got the SBR street core kit. I cut out the two places in the frame for the two pipes to go in and got it set in there to test the fit. A couple things I'm having problems with are the wiring harness that goes around and below the radiator on both sides, and the a/c lines. I took the power...