Whats normal vacuum I'd expect to see while cranking a motor? Car wont start and I have not checked yet, but based on how it sounds I suspect either low or no vacuum is being pulled..
Just turns over, doesnt catchIt sounds a little odd to me while turning over, but he says thats how it always sounds...Thats why the question about normal vacuum during cranking
Didnt grab any pictures, I was working on limited time to get it repaired. Fire went up, no damage below the bottom half of the fan. I gave that wiring down there a quick look before putting the replacement radiator in, all the wiring down there looked good.I've been scratchin my head over...
I've been working on these cars for about 10 years now, I've worked on over a hundred different dsm's, from building motors and tuning, to suspension and brakes.. Never once have I ever seen or heard of this..Customers 96 talon tsi awd auto, basic bolt on's on stock turbo... the Pass side...
I'm very anti-anything but quaife..It just made my gst a whole different car, amazing handling, etc. I can go on for hours about it, but I'll just leave it at its a bulletproof piece, and well worth whatever they want to charge for it
Spend the money on a quaife and be done with it :)I ran a quaife for a while before converting the car to AWD, it is an amazingly strong piece, it lasted through 6 or 7 transmissions without any damage to it at allRemember, you get what you pay forMatt
I converted my GST about a year ago, I have too much money into my car to get rid of it and buy a GSX, it runs as good as any factory AWD dsm does..Matt
Worn transmission internals can cause this, kinda hard to diagnose without seeing the car though.. most of the time when I see a car that does this, it ends up being worn trans internals..Check to see if theres metal in your trans fluid, that would be a good start at finding the problemMatt
Once the trans is out use a jack to hold the motor up, getting the trans in will be hell your first time around, be preparedas far as gettin it out, I remove all the bolts, then get under the car and put my knees up against it, wiggle it out and let it fall on my lap, it helps if you pad the...
I've put a 2g FPR on a 1g rail, but only because it was needed to make a quick fixto get this to work you would need to slot the bolt holes, and if i remember correctly, it barely worked that way, again, it was only because we needed to get a car running fast that we even did it, I'd advise...
true, if you are a perfectionist, start with a lower grit, I've found 200 grit usually works good enough for me, but then again, I dont polish things that are as rough as the stock intake manifolds :)Matt
A 2g fuel rail/regulator does fit on a 1g, just installed one on a 1g the other day.But it honestly would be more effective to get an adjustable fpr..Matt
the design of the 2g 7bolt motor is pretty much the cause of crankwalk, changing the crank will do no good in preventing it, just get a 6bolt, and if you want to go stroker, do a 6bolt 4g64
Not swappable, a 2g eclipse has a chrysler motor/transFor starters the transmission is on the opposite side of the car, different bolt pattern on the bellhousing, different input shaft, different axles, and about 1000 other different things, not worth going into detail on it, just know its...
DSM's run very rich in stock trim, remove the cat and you will know that first hand, at least your nose willThe fuel smell is bearable, considering the gains you get from removing the cat, its worth it, plus when you tune it later on down the line, you wont smell it as much..Matt
sandblasting the manifold would be a good start, get it very cleanPolishing one of these intake manifolds is a giant pain, you'll need to start with probably 200grit sand paper, and work your way down in steps to 1500 or 2000 grit, the finer the grit you sand down to the better the results...
The knock sensor system on a 2g is strange, theres always some type of power runnign to and from the sensor, the signal is interpreted by the ECU, so theres no real way to monitor knock without dsmlink or something like it.
Only difference I can think of off the top of my head is the cams, non-turbos and automatics have different camsThere may be more differences, valve springs come to mind, but I cant recall right nowMatt
Every motor needs back pressure, its what makes torque..On any turbo car though, you have to remember, the motor has all the backpressure it needs, exhaust or no exhaust. Think about it, you have a little tiny exhaust passage bolted right up to the manifold, basically the turbo creates the...
I always use oem injector orings for FIC injectors, they are a bit of a pain in the ass to get them to seal good, but I'd much rather do that than remove the black spacers.Get a new set of oem o-rings, and put the black spacers back in, very caregully guide the rail and injectors into their...
Go ahead and do the exhaust manifold gasket and turbo gasket at the same time, start by loosening the 3 bolts/1 nut that hold the factory turbo on to the manifold, once those are off, pull the 9 exhaust manifold nuts, 2 14mm on the ends, and the rest take a 12mm.next will be a pain in the...
What type of headgasket did you put on? Metal, factory, aftermarket factory replacement? Did you install ARP head studs, what did you torque the head to? Did you have the head resurfaced before you put it back on?I never put a head back on a car without resurfacing it, its $40 in machine...
Have you ever replaced your alternator? I've had a lot of trouble with aftermarket replacement alternators, not putting out enough power under load. Thats the only thing I can think of that would cause that.Matt