I got two pm's from you. One on the 14th saying the money was sent, and one on the 15th that was blank, it didn't say anything. So I had nothing to respond to, I didn't ship it until the 17th.

Chill the F**K out, you paid me late on a Friday and I sent it to you on Monday. I didn't rob you of your measly $25, I'm a grown man not a kid.

I'm open to offers, I work in Berkeley so I can deliver parts there as well.

I have a 2.5" press bent downpipe. $50 2.25" mandrel bent Mopar Performance cat back system. (quiet, looks stock) $50 Stainless external dump o2 housing $20 SOLD18x7.5 Motegi DP6 gunmetal with 225-40-18 RT-615 lots of tread. $300 Harbor Freight 1000 lb engine stand, $30 6 bolt eagle...

There is a E85 and bio diesel pump being installed at the 76 station in Berkeley right off the University exit. It will probably be a few months before it is up and running.

Yep, it's great not having smog. You can still be pulled over and have your hood popped though.

I just changed my address on line with the DMV to a friends house in Lake County. No questions, no problems, they sent the renewal there and he gave it to me every year. A P.O. box will be hard because you will have to show proof of residency to the post master before they give you one.

I have one in the north bay you can have for free. I would rather you just take the whole car that it's attached to though.

I saw an all stock unmolested (as of 6-8-10) 95gst auto at the Windsor PnP. It still had the turbo with no shaft play and the ecu in it. I didn't have the tools for that thing as I was only there for a doughnut spare.

Like I said you can have it, you just got to come and take it off the car. I'm planning on using the car for target practice if someone doesn't take it away first. It's a 90 parts car. PM me for my number whenever you want to make the trip up here.

Petaluma, if you want the whole car take it. just bring two wheels so I can take my wheels off.

I have one on my parts car you can have. You got to pull it though.

I think I saw ApexVIII in my neck of the woods on 101 north 4:15ish pm yesterday (Petaluma). It was a modded red 2G with two holes in the front bumper cover. I was on my bike and thew out the shocker real quick but with gloves on it would be hard to see it.

I have a couple 1G stock side mounts.

I can help but not for another week, I'm leaving town and will be back on the 28th. I'm in Petaluma.

Ok no problemhere is some more stuff for sale.G4CS 6 bolt 100mm crank lightened (my version of Butchered) $300 SOLD AEM EMS, injector box, 5 bar map, GM sensor $900 6 bolt Eagle rods $250

Twin disc setup $700 SOLD 3" V-band exaust with new cat $500 SOLD JIC coil overs $1000 SOLD BW S362et with FP filter & V-band comp outlet $700 SOLD Setrab -12 oil cooler setup $250 SOLD gloss black powder coated valve cover with -8 bungs still has baffles $125 TRE trans 100 miles or less...

Yea it sucks but I will find something else to blow my money on. For those who want pictures pm me the email address you want them sent to and of course the item you want pics of.

I pm'd you about the fuel setup Danny.

I have a 3" exhaust with a V-band cat and test pipe for sale or you can maybe barrow my 100% stock exhaust for a day.

Sorry both my cars are 1g's.I will put up a ongoing list and prices as I pull stuff off the car.

Well local guys would get a better deal then everyone else and this is not the classified section. All I need is Defiant hassling me about my thread. I will if it's within the rules but is there something you were interested in? Plus I want to give the locals first dibs.

I should add the AEM ems and injector driver box, the BW 362et turbo setup, and Buschur Racing front mount.

It's time to get busy on parting my car. So if you see something in my profile you want pm me. Things off the car right now are the Baer brakes with matching rear rotors, JIC FLA2 coil overs, PTT twin disc with PTT t/o bearing, 2G accumulator and Isuzu slave. (discs are at .196 thick.) TRE...

I will be putting the chassis back as close to stock as possible and selling it as a roller.

Yep, I ill be putting mine on the market in a week or so.

That pretty much sums it up. I'm 35 now and its just time to grow up and move on to other things.

PM replied to.

I want to try and sell everything I have with the car including the 90 Talon parts car and all the spares I have. Just trying to avoid a part out. PM me if you are interested or want to see it. It really is too much to list and my profile only lists the major stuff. I also will consider guns and...

Yeah oem sprocket and belt. The pump is perfect, the only way to get the pulley off was with visegrips and air gun. It has a oem mitsu stubby shaft off the 1.6L on the other end not a balance shaft. The belt did not break it just spit 80% of it's teeth off. I was looking closer at the pistons...

Thats what it looks like to me but I won't know for sure until I take it off the car. As far as parting it out, god what a pita that will be. I still need to get past the pain that my DSM hobby is over. When I was 16 (1990) this was the car to have. Kinda like how the old guys are into muscle...

Unfortunately I pulled it last night, #1 had three broken valves which put a hole in the piston. #'s 2&3 bent all four valves and just dinged the pistons, #4 broke one valve and beat up the piston pretty good but no hole. The head is wrecked on #1 cylinder including a broken valve seat. The head...

I built this car, not a shop. I know the ins & outs of a DSM. I'm gonna bet you didn't check my profile before you typed out that ignorant post. As far as I could tell it broke around the bolt because the bolt is still there and tight but the pulley/cog is loose. The pump shaft has zero play to...

I just can't drop anymore money into this thing. I just put a new $2400 TRE trans in, a toe eliminator kit, and polly bushings throughout the entire car getting it ready to do track days. Now 100 miles later the oil pump pulley came apart destroying the timing belt and killing the head, valves...

No pedal stop here, I have a PTT with a 2g accumulator. I have had my clutch off a few times and it looks fine.

I let mine sit for 9 mos with E85 in it after a broken trans. When I started it she ran on 3 cylinders until it was warm, I revved it up and it cleared out. I used Stabil ethanol treatment though.

Yes, I just did it.

I would figure out what spring rate you want, then contact Eibach to have them make you what ever you want.

Rereading my post I can see how the last sentence would lead you to believe that, however that is not what I intended to say.

JIC fla2, It was just a simple question to the 1G guys about their ride height. I realize there is a lot more to it then just how low your car is.

I'm curious to see what the 1G guys are using for ride height. Where are you measuring it at? From the ground to the lip of the fender through the center of the wheel I am at 25.5" front and 26" rear. I just did all the bushings and the toe eliminators, I'm looking for a good track day setup...

A cheaper setup would be 15x7 +40 Rota Slipstreams. That setup will fit perfect.

I would like to see this on a 1G, any plans on mounting this to a 1G knuckle and taking pics?

It is part of the T/O bearing, you need a entire new bearing.

Scratch that I think I was wrong about PPG making a 6 speed. Just Albins makes them. No harm no foul.

You can get a 6 speed from either Albins or PPG, but they are race transmissions designed to be close ratio and not top end. I looked at both and the 5 speeds had a taller 5th then the 6th. Your options other then that is a taller 5th (Evo3). Once upon a time I think TRE made a even taller...

Lake County registered car here, it's even better then having a best friend as a smog tech. But it's always good to have friends in the business.

Thank you for the explanation.

Some people call the G4CS a "hybrid" motor.

I guess I just don't understand what is going on here. Isn't the stock ball joint pressed in the control arm from the top? That pic looks like the new one is screwed in from the bottom of the control arm. So the point of this mod is to change the BJ pivot point from the top of the control arm to...