you are completely right. since you cant get under 9's it must be that all the others of us that have are lying... right? :)Just messing with ya.it takes a while, and a LOT of tinkering with gearing and suspension but if you playwith the settings enough you wil do it. I did it with...
Hey I hope that tis hasnt been posted here already, but I just found a new MMCD build. 1.8GI dont normally come here anymore as my DSM died and I now have a 3000gt vR-4, but thought you all helped me out so much I would drop this link her for you guys...
ok, so it hits hard, but what about sound quality? are you even slightly concerned with that? you have it tuned to 37.858hz was that what you were shooting for? the chip board that you used looks about .5 inches thick. plus that type of wood vibrates a LOT. (dont ask why I know this so...
you will be fine, but the plugs are partially fouled right now. as soon as it opens I would change them, or just go to a local auto parts store and get new plugs from them, and a cheap socket and ratchet.Since you said you were headed to a base and the Hobby Shop I'm guessing Military...
your cooling systemis slightly pressurized at normal operating temp. you might have small cracks / holes in the hoses that are only visible under pressure. Just replace them. they aint that pricey! :D
My god Im so freakin PISSED!! :mad:So I put in my MAF and Hard UICP the other day but due to a slipping clutch havent gone out and played withit yet. well I just said to heck with it and took it out. as long as I dont go over about 4psi boost it is fine.Well I got about 3 miles...
I got mine from AutoZone. I laid everything out and figured out exactly what I needed. then I went and asked if I could look at thier radiator hoses. I just measured Inner Diameter and bends and got everyting working. after buying a bunch of rad hoses I stil only spent 1/2 of what I would...
personally I would not do it with the engin running. My feeling is that when hot the metal will expand, thenyou go and spray cold water on it and stuff starts to contract FAST and crack. This happened on an older motorcycle that I had whe I ran througha puddle. darn cylinder cracked. Im sure...
If you are running High PSI you need good quality, so it will cost more...Here is the company I have been dealing with. so far I have not had a single problem with them or thier stuff, and its on sale untill Monday!!Linkey Linkey, here's your Linkey! :D:laser:
Im going to hck the old IC tube, but have a question about squeezing the coupler I have dorwn to a 1.75.... Thats a half inch squeez. under 15 lbs boost you really yhink that will hold? I would imagine there will be pinch spots like gathers in cloth. shouldnt be a problem until boost is...
you know, that has got to be the simplest solution possible. just leave some of the stock hose n and add a coupler ontop of that..... I cant believe I diddnt think of it. Thanks guys. Thats what Im going to do.:laser:
Finally got almost all I need for my MAFT install. The MAF, Translator, Bursher Racing Hard UICP, 2G TB Elbow, and reducers to attach my 3 inch MAF to my 2.25 inch UICP. But now I am stuck... I can use a spacer to get the reducer from the MAF to attach tothe elbow, but I need to find one that...
I thought that came from a laptop just before the floor pan explodes...this is gonna sound stupid, but are all the bolts tight? could it possibly be metal hitting metal? an intake valve doing whacky things, a hose clamp loose hitting a hard UICP. Something like that??here is a...
Only one head on 4 cylinder? there is the problem. needs to bolt another head on it.ok, all stupid jokes aside.... what exactly happened when it died? diwas he running it hard, just idling, running normal. does he have good compression? what do the spark plugs look like. have you...
doubt it needs to be said, but you need to tap the hole after drilling it. and it Danny is reading this.. I DONT MEAN HIT IT WITH A HAMMER!! Dont ask... Long story. WTF :notgood::laser:
Dont know if the ARP's need to be re-torqued, but do youy really want to risk them needing it and NOT doing it? It dont take long to do and is a bit of insurance for your motor.and as for the boost.... Dont run that much. it isnt good. actually you need to pull off that urbo right now...
I checked the Vfaq about changing it out myself, and I just dont have the tools to drop my tranny here at the house. looks like my dealership is cheaper than yours though. Hopefully I can get the money together in about a month. till then, I have to drive my wifes LeBaron. Ugh....:laser:
well I just got my hard UICP, Maf and translator and was all set to install it... But my car seems to have other ideas. if I hit boost my clutch slips. If i just floor it my car wil pul untill I hit 7psi boost and then it starts to stop pulling even though my rpm goes up faster to 5k. I held...
I would jump on Ebay and look for a palm m100 (about 25 bucks) and a datalogger cable(get the one withthe ADL PLUG, not the three wires sticking out...about 23 bucks) and download MMCD from this darn little linkey and you will be set. that is what I have, and it is the cheap way to go...
here is a port size calculator that I use.Click me!! Click ME!! Click Me!!Bit of advise thoug.... if you like the calculator save the entire page to your HD. the server it is on tends to crash evry once in a while.:laser:
jaxon, My condolences go out to you for what you got off ebay. :D :Dwhy would the GM Maf swap make your car crap out at idle? as long as it is after your bov any leak or vent wont be measured, therefore your ecu will dump in the proper ammount of fuel.:laser:
good god. its not hard to find one on E-Bay. just type in Manual Boost Controller in the search box.For those of you who are Search functionally challenged.....9.95 , 63.99 , 7.95 , 10.95 , 10.50 .I found 209 on ebay just now. there are a few of the cheaper ones. I bought...
Map light, Gauge pods, Sunglass pocket, mount your garage remote, center channel speaker, scroling led like on the front of Knight Rider...Should I go on? its late. the ideas will just keep getting more and more ridiculous, and not spelled correctly... :coy::laser:
yea, but its funny to go to the mall set your timer for 30 secs and walk away. watch peoples faces as you do this. Suprising how many nce people will tell you, "Hey you forgot to turn off your car!" Hopefully you were counting under your breath so you can turn around and say "CAR! Shut off!"...
removing the lower honeycomb sometimes causes this. as for lower boost levels... You do have a real boos gauge dont you? Nothe stock joke of a gauge? Im not sure exactly why that is happening. did you remove the restrictor? (Did you add a restrictor?? :coy: )Good luck and let us know...
well I just tried logging my car. let me see if i can post it. Sorry I cant get he lables to line up. what is a better way to post it?
English Units Datalog
TIME TIMA FTRL FTRM FTRH EGRT O2-R TPS MAFS RPM...
shoot, the local MAACO here had a special a couple weeks ago, 200 for the whole car painted one color. Clear was extra.That said, small can'o'paint and your basic grav feed gun and you are set. not hard to do right, even easier to do wrong. :D:laser:
First of all I do not need a bunch of responses of "Venting is bad, dont do it." I KNOW THIS!!Also please read my entire post before thinking I am stupid. (Well you already think that most likely so nevermind...)Ok, My car is running terminally Lean. If I boost any over stock levels...
Infinity sounds good, but due to a Customer service issue I will never do buisness with them again.as to them fitting, you can always build a pod like Devilish did. I would post a pic of mine but I still need to smooth out the body filler.:laser:
yep silverstars never last to long... Oh wait I forgot I had them in my cougar for 3 1/2 years and they are still running strong. Mustang had them for 3 years then I sold it. RX-7 had them for 3 months and they died. But I think wrapping the car around a tree might have had something to do...
good point since the MBC wont have the Ecu connection... Darn. Hmmm... Wonder if the factory one from my Laser would work? Might have to see if itis the same part number.:laser:
sorry guys... it is actually happening on my wifes 88 Chrysler LeBaron.... :coy: I was pretty sure that was it, so now I am going to try to just replace it with a cheap homemade MBC and see if that works. The car sounds like the WG is always open and the car has dramatic loss of power. Plus...
Like the subject states.... My wifes car is throwing a CEL that is defined as wastegate control solinoid, fail. Is this the same thing as the boost controller? I am thinking it is, but wanted to check first.:laser:
I have Alpine Type R 6.5 components in my doors. Running 75 watts to them and they sound great! I have dealt with Kenwood and Pioneer in the past and was not happy. Type R cost me about 250 for the set, but well worth it. For excellent sound you might want to look into CDT or Rainbow, but...
the chicklet shoud be behind the kick panel. mine was taped to the back of a large wire loom, under a lot of black wire wrap. Keep looking, its in there!:laser:
yea, I thought you were asking for a way to get your design put on gauges...Maybe try a search for "electro luminescence" Bacic theory and application. should be able to get the basics of the lighting, and then putting your design ona transparancy to put over the EL face you make..... Or...