Here are some toyota clips that will work onthe interior panels. 90467-A0016-B2 is a grayish black color and the 90467-A0016-C0 is black.Got this info from a thead on here https://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/fyi-on-interior-clips.326702/

This is awesome Paul! I have been looking at the Mustang diffs and wondering about getting a sub frame made for the 2g. Should have known you were already on it!

You need to get that thing together! lol

The S wire usually isn't a drain. The F wire is for sure though. What all wires are you hooking up? S and L ? L or F will excite the regulator. But just use one to do so if you are using the Sense wire.If your S wire is draining the battery, then hook it to a spot that is switched and...

Ground your case. That is always good even if it doesn't fix this issue. But it will prob help. The voltage will drop a little as the alternator get hot. Is yours getting a lot of heat from the exhaust?Grounding my case, and running my S wire to the efi relay area in the car got my...

Those stock wires can become corroded and cause current flow issues. You either had an issue like that, a loose connection or a short in that wire.Just run you a new 4 to 8 gauge wire from the alternator to the battery. And put a fuse in between. 100 amp should do if you have stock alt...

Craig, why don't you put in the E98 since we have it now. Tune for it, and drive it for a while, then check and see if there is any (normal) goo. I want to see if the goo goes away with E98.I will put it in my car when I get some time. I am getting my house ready to sell, and It has been...

I bet that's the same one I have. It's right under 2".

Measure on the ribs.

I have a single injector and connector.

I usually see the biggest voltage drop in the back, by my battery where my fuel pump is. Having the sense wire back there, keeps the voltage constant at the pump. The thing is to have the sense wire go to your lowest voltage drop.(wherever that is)You can hook it up front and you will...

I think the 1 wire can perform fine. As long as the alternator is spinning fast enough at idle, you will be ok. That's about the only issue with the high amp alternators, is output at idle.I personally like the normal regulator and using the sense wire. I wouldn't worry about using the...

If you want a standard regulator where you have to wire it up, then just order it the way it is.If you want a self exciting regulator, then ask them for the self exciting regulator, it is a 15 dollar option.The regulator they have at the bottom is the self exciting regulator, but it...

Stock wires are fine with 105 amp alt. That code won't cause you to run on 3 cylinders, so you had another issue.

Yeah that works also Glenn. I just wasn't happy with the wires from the battery to the fuse box.So I would advise anyone that does It using the stock fuse and has a high amp alternator, to also upgrade the wires from the fusebox to the battery.

Yes, you can remove it all if you go with the self exciting regulator(one wire alternator)Just run new wire(4 gauge) from the output of the alternator to an inline fuse, then to the positive battery terminal. Also, I would run you a ground strap from the alternator case to a good spot on...

Correct. You would only need the output running (fused) to your battery.I would also run a ground strap from the alternator casing to chasis ground.

When you order the alternator. Tell them you want the smallest pulley. You will want this so the alternator will put out good power at idle.

That just depends on how much current you need to run your fans, amps, fuel pump, lights etc. The 105 with the small pulley, will be great for about everyone.I would like to have a little smaller pulley, so mine would be perfect below 900 rpm, but I have the smallest one they had.

I have the 160 amp with the smaller pulley and it is great.

That is correct. It isn't a Mitsubishi regulator, it is just a self exciting regulator. Once the alternator spins to about 500 rpm it will self excite and start "charging".It used to be a 15 dollar option,but once they figured out we were using these on our cars, they started charging like...

That was from me. That's the first Saturn alternator on a DSM. I got that one from a pull a part just to mock it up. That thing worked pretty good. Lol

Your fine bud. I didn't mean that in a bad way at all.

I have one of those pulleys, I posted the pictures of them in this thread. I was referring to some that Glenn was going to make up last year that were even smaller. :)Thanks for trying to help though. :thumb:

Glenn, I would be interested in a bracket when you get time.Also, did you ever get some of the small pulleys made and tested?David

LOL :thumb:

Craig, you are going too deep into it. It is pretty common. I have seen the mark be off on a stock motor, it usually ranges from one end of the mark to the other.Plus, as mentioned above, if your timing plate has any play in it at the key, it could just be twisted one way or the other, and...

I have ran into this many times with the 4G63 engines I have put together over the years. The crank mark hardly ever lines up perfect, and it is always worse when the head and/or deck have been shaved. I have seen it on all the variations 2.0, 2.3, 2.1 and 2.4, both 6 and 7 bolt.This is...

The single wire going to a terminal, as you put it, isn't a wire. It is a bracket that holds the stock wires in place to the stock alternator so they stay away from the u2 housing.The double white wire is the output of the alternator. It goes to a fuse in the fusebox, then to the battery.

Yep. They can be good for some. I have had 3 of those and the regulator goes out if you have a lot of load on them all the time.The regulator is still the a 75 or 100 amp if your lucky.The Saturn alternator does take a little grinding to install, but there is only one wire that has...

No. If you use the F wire it must go to a switched 12 source because it has a slight draw on it. It will slowly run the battery down when the engine is not running.F and L both activate the alternator( regulator) the F does it with 12 volts and the L does it with a resisted 12 volt...

No. You don't have tohave it. You can use the 2 wire plug. Just use the instructions I posted earlier. Just disregard the red wire.The L wire will turn on the alternator. So just hook it to the black with yellow stripe wire on the factory plug.If you have any problems let me know...

What pigtail do you have for your alternator? Is it a 2 wire or a 3 wire(one of them a big red wire)If you have the 3 wire plug, here is a real simple way to hook it up and you do not have to run any wires anywhere.use the 2 middle wires from your factory plug.the one that has 12...

No problem. Sorry for the confusion.

It comes with a regulator, you just have to hook up a wire or two. Or you can order it with a self exciting regulator and you will only have to hook up the charge wire to the nut on the side.If you order their "special regulator" you will just be paying 60 bucks for the self exciting...

Yes it is better to use the smaller puller. It is 6 rib, but I put my belt in the middle.(so there is a rib on each side) and it Lines up perfect.But they are just ripping you off by charging you that much for the "special regulator" because it is just a self exciting regulator. They charge...

It was great meeting you too Paul! Loved seeing the turbo setup! You are a real cool dude. Lots of good times this year. I can't wait until next year!

Hell yeah!! It was awesome to see it in person. Been coming here every year since 07 waiting to see it. Seen Shep every year, but no Talon. Finally!! LOLShep is King!!

I have it on the car, but I am still waiting on some more things to come in for the new setup, so I have not tested the new pulley. Let me know how your works out.

For those wanting to run a smaller pulley, to run the alternator faster and get more amps at idle. You can order a alternator from motor city reman, and ask them for a slightly smaller pulley, and they will put one on it for free.I am sure if you ask them, they will sell you just the pulley...

Where are you reading the voltage from? Is your volt gauge wired inside the car? If so, I would try running the sense wire to the same point that your gauge is wired to. see if that changes it at all.

I got a 3 wire plug from Oreilly's, and the brand is Dorman. the number on the package is 85854 it says use with GM regulators 1116411 and 1116408.Hope this helps you find it easy.

That looks great John!!!Will you have it at the shootout next year? I sure hope so!

I have had a lot of these hum when the regulator is excited.(has power to it) They always worked fine though. Is yours charging good?

That sounds great man! Looking forward to seeing the difference it will make.

I am in the middle of an auto swap, so I can not do this just yet.:banghead: I bet it would make the voltage pretty good and stable. I can't wait to try it.That is just GM for ya. LOLThat would be pretty cool to do. You sure wouldn't want everyone running around with one cranking it...

I didn't take it in a bad way at all. I was actually glad to see someone had been messing with it to improve it.That is funny that he asked you why you had the L and F wires hooked up, because that is how GM had them in the Saturn. LOLI am glad you put in the time and found out...

This is great info Glenn!! I am the one who started putting these Saturn Alts on our cars. I had great results with them wired up like they are in the Saturn, so I never looked into what the other pins did.This will really help stabilize the voltage under load, by running the S wire to a...

No problem

The long box is the previous model(791xv) The new model is in the smaller box. But the top link says 5900 SST, so it should be fine. They are just using the picture of the old model I am sure.David