I saw that he went 8.42 getting ready for the shootout but then seeing him go 8.16 was awesome!

Does anyone know if the quatermaster part number 108503 is the correct part number for the gear driven (although I don't think gear driven or not matters) pressure plate? (The top floater, not the clutch cover)

I love colts!!

the 1g setup doesn't work very well since the actual "sensor" is mechanical. The solution is pretty cheap though. Pick up a terratrip VSS probe. They work well and are cake to setup. You just have to mess with the vss calibration in the AEM...

Congrats on 11's!! I need to put another 14b car together.

Still on the 3794?

Have the Magnus on my galant. No copper spray and no leaks. It's been on for about a year.

Sometimes the bulb housing will die. Check for continuity there. Also, it's possible that the flasher itself is bad.

LOL this reminds me of a thread that was posted a few years ago

You'll just have to rework the reverse light harness and bring the connectors into the car instead of having it outside of the car behind the bumper.

You will need the tail light harness that is in the tail light itself anyway, unless you just want to make your own.The difference is the flasher (behind the cd player). The eclipse flasher is way different than the simple talon 3 wire flasher (since the brake lights and the turn signals...

I've done the rear eclipse to talon swap on my 96. The brackets under the tail lights need moved down 1.5". I just got rid of the bracket in the center. The styrofoam is not needed. To make the brake lights and turn signals separate, you need to remove the brake input wire from the flasher and...

I had the Ebay/ssac/vrsf style FMIC on my 2g and loved it. Since I got it off ebay it had they typical issues i.e. missing coupler and the inlet was too long, but that was nothing that a $12 trip to napa, one cut, and one weld acting as a bead didn't solve. I personally like this style better...

english racing made more than 550 on a DJ and I believe curt brown went faster than they did back in the day. Rob Hansons English Racing built 619WHP FP3065 1g - YouTube

The AEM EMS isn't as hard as people make it out to be. I also don't believe that starting the engine on an AEM car is as bad as some people make it seem. I had a series 1 box on my 2g and a series 2 on my galant, both start as if it were stock. If you put any amount of time into setting up the...

The hardest thing for me was to get it to start how I wanted it to every time. Once I did 10min or so worth of reading I was able to setup the idle with probably 30min-1hr of time behind the laptop. Logging is easy...AEM will log all parameters that are desplayed, so once you have your...

I've had AEM in two of my cars and love it. The first car was setup by a friend who tunes professionally, and after that, I retuned it myself for cams and again when I switched to E85. I currently have a series 2 box in my galant and have tuned it 100% by myself. It does take some time to...

the 14b is a good, cheap, upgrade from a t25. When I had my 2g, I bought my 14b for $50 and went 12.50 @ 109.76mph in the 1/4 and 7.98 @ 87.58 mph in the 1/8 on that pass. The over all setup was cheap and this was still a full weight car and an unported turbo/manifold.

Did you download and install the drivers for the serial-to-usb adapter?

as far are coolant/oil lines go, if you have access to 1g stuff, you can just use a 1g oil feed/return line and then use the stock 2g coolant lines. for the turbo outlet, you can combine the stock 1g and the stock 2g lower intercooler pipes to make one that will work on the stock 2g side mount.

Control arms were from polk performance but that's all I know. they made tubular front subframes too but they were big money.

Here are a few of a friend's 1g, one of the cleanest 1g's i've seen.here are some of my 1g that's been in pieces since i've been at school...mostly what's going on underneath...

Motor is out of my 92 GVR4. As stated before any 1g with a 2.0L will work or any 91-92 GVR4 or any galant gsx. All the 2L 1gs, even with a 7bolt, had the larger head ports.

one thing that wasn't mentioned about the brakes (since it's the ABS not BRAKE light) it could be the reluctor ring for the wheel speed sensors. Those commonly crack and cause abs issues.

Also if anyone is looking to just get rid of the accumulator on the trans, you don't have to buy a new flex line. The stock rubber line will still work.

I've had ALL4SPN and SLOW91. Trying to think of a plate for the GVR4...maybe AAA FTW

awesome! we'll have to go cruising

Looks good buddy! i'll be home for a week for thanksgiving if you guys need a hand.

Also that FEA analysis might be too simple. The block isn't solid (water jackets). The deformation will be more than what that model says.

I agree, thank you for posting pictures and info. Just because someone sees how you did something doesn't mean they will copy it directly. Sometimes pictures can spark ideas on how to do something, this progression is what really helps the community.

any extra reinforcement to the front pickup points for the ladder bars? Any chance you could get a picture or two of that mounting point on both sides?

Check your throttle body. I've had similar issues in the past and after removing the tbody, cleaning it thoroughly (getting all the small holes with a pipe brush), cleaning the carbon buildup on the BISS and replacing the o-ring, and then resetting the idle, the car idled smooth and didn't have...

I'll throw my friend Chad's car up since I don't think he's on hereName:Chad Pittsburgh, PA95 eagle talon TSI AWD30r, AEM, EVO 8 brakes all around, powdercoated EVO 8 wheels, DVDT fab FMIC, TiAL BOV and 40mm WG.

Nice pick up, OP! The new mustangs are definitely a good platform. A new 5.0 with and intake, exhaust, and and SCT tuner or something similar made between 412-416whp and I want to say about 390wtq on a friend's mustang dyno. For a car that you can get for about 30k or maybe just north of that...

I have both of my fans on a relay, which is controlled by the stock fan wiring. This way the fans are controlled like stock, but always have a full 12-14 volts. Also if your still having overheating issues, buy or make a fan shroud. This makes the fans much more effective.

The only reason a chromoly cage is lighter is due to the wall thickness. I believe you need 1-5/8" .083 wall for chromoly and 1-5/8" .134 wall mild steel. The are both types of steel and have similar weight per given volume. You can go with a thinner wall for chromoly due to it's greater strength.

I'll be there for sure. 5th time for me.

I don't have any first hand experience with the cages but have heard that they're not too bad. I believe all the chromoly cages are DOM (Drawn over mandrel). The DOM tubing is basically seamless. The welded welded seams on EWS tubing can split in a wreck. As far as I know, EWS doesn't pass...

S and W racecars has mild steel or chromoly cages/roll bars. If you go with a mild steel cage, make sure you go with DOM tubing and not EWS tubing. Page Title Race Car Dragster Chassis, Roll bars, Cages, Suspensions, Parts

Another place to look for a leak would be where the master cylinder meets the fire wall but on the inside of the car.

Thanks, and ya the 60' times were killing me. Hopefully i'll have better luck next time. I upped my 2 step, lowered my 2step, messed with tire pressure, but nothing really helped. I can usually do mid 1.7's pretty easily.

Went to the track tonight. Prep was pretty horrible and I couldn't 60' no matter what I did. Still had a new personal best though. 12.50 @ 109.3. Still have an unported 6cm housing and unported 2g manifold. The car is still pretty much full weight minus exhaust. My next time out will...

Here's my DIY paint job. Turned out OK. Wish I would have pulled the windows though.

I've Been trying to go to the track for a few weeks now. It's been rained out two weeks in a row. I'm Hoping to get low 12s. Since last year (went 12.85 @ 107 with snow tires) i've added better all season tires, HKS272s and E85 so we'll see. I'm still full weight for the most part and on...

In the back of the autometer gauges is a compression fitting. Loosen the nut, pull out the old line and ferrel and get a new ferrel from any auto parts store. If you don't have enough line you can jsut replace the whole thing. Advance auto near me carries the plastic tubing for gauges.

If there was a reason for running two BOV's it would probably be due to too much volume of air not boost pressure. 30psi on a 42r and 30psi on a 16g are two completely different things.

Looks awesome man. Can't wait to see it make another pass. What are you doing for chassis wiring? Did you just take out what was unnecessary or is it a full painless harness?

Is this still happening?

Also if you take the time to read the AEM EFI basics and AEMPro Users Guide which comes with the software when you download it, it will explain a good bit of the software pretty well.

Just throwing this out there but AEM doesn't have to be double the price. I bought mine used for $700. If you don't have an eprom ECU then the full version of V3 plus the price of an eprom ECU or the conversion and you will be right at $700.