Then post “lack of fuel “ issue instead of “fuel cut” issue, since they are completely different.

Why do people think still Fuel cut has anything to do with fuel? The electrical in his fuel system could be built for 1000hp and in 100% working order, and the car would still hit fuel cut if the right conditions were met.

I relate to the Midwest. Chicago mostly, even tho I live in Wisconsin. WIDSM been dead for a while now

Depends on your rod ratio. Magnus was spinning his stroker to almost 10k. Can’t speak for the longevity of that motor tho. Plenty of guys have run strokers to 8.5-9k with success.

If it’s got Oliver I beams, rev that thing!!

Marty, what do you mean fuel cut can only be set up to a certain point?You need to take the cover off the translator box and see what the settings are. Then compare those settings to what the instructions manual recommend, which you should be able to find online somewhere

If you hit fuel cut, you KNOW it. Fuel cut is not a sputtering. It’s a big BANG!! Also, 10psi on a s16g is more airflow than a 14b at 10psi. Are you running a MAFT or DSMLINK with that GM MAF?Also, it’s easier to hit fuel cut when the temps get colder. What are your settings on the MAFT?

Is there a 7 bolt OFH that doesn’t have the coolant passing through? External cooler the only option?

From my understanding, the 17c comp wheel is completely inferior to the 20g

In 1997, I bought a 93 Honda Prelude VTEC because I thought it was fast and sporty. After spending 8 months straight in the shop for a myriad of problems (broken motor mount bolt in block, then destroyed motor when timing jumped after replacing short block from said broken bolt, all due to a...

Yes

And here I thought $1200 for a quality tubular header, i.e. Morrison Fab, was a good deal

If you are looking down at the fuel filter from the top, you want to be turning the fitting on the fuel line CLOCKWISE.

That was my favorite color. How much did you pay for that car?

Geeze Marty. You could at least tell the cameraman to zoom in on the ET/mph at the end of the run!! 🤣🤣

The old Version FP green was great!! The new version with the HTA73 wheel is even better, from what I heard! I’ve got one going on my car soon!

Not with stock cams/retainers/intake manifold. You can’t rev past 7k. Won’t make any more power there anyways with the stock intake manifold. . I would at the very least get some 272 cams and upgrade your valve train. You can do that with the head on the car in a couple hours. And upgrade your...

Considering this thread is almost 16 years old, I highly doubt any shop would make anything right after that amount of time

Nope. I had a 12sec fwd car way way back in the day. I’ll never modify another fwd car again. Hell, I was scared of breaking parts in my stock Hyundai Veloster Turbo whenever it would wheelhop.

The best fmic is going to depend on your power goals. A cheap $150 eBay kit is fine for a mild (<300whp build), but if your goal is a single digit 1/4 mile car, the core alone could cost you over $500, plus end tanks and piping. There is no “best, one size fits all” fmic kit out there.

I was just curious. I’ve seen the lawlessness and complete lack of respect for CO’s in county jail. It’s almost a no brainier as to why many of those people are in there. But once I got to state prison, almost all of that behavior disappeared. It was simply not tolerated. Living in that...

You a CO in county jail or actual prison setting?

What do you consider terrible? What clutch setup?

What kind of 60’s are you cutting? How much power you making?

🙄🙄

My guy get e98 as well. But at $11/gal, it’s not very cost effective

Boost leak would result in the opposite, running rich. What’s your fuel setup, Tuning method, Boost levels?

That guy has no clue about these cars or their potential If you plan on upgrading to 300hp range, you def need to upgrade the clutch

What about trying this? Spraying the whole side down with brake cleaner until it’s perfectly clean. Then run the car on jackstands at higher rpm and try to physically watch to see where the leak develops

What kinda fuel pump is the car running that can keep up with that much base fuel pressure? And why such high base pressure? 650’s all you had laying around?

You are supposed to set base fuel pressure with no vacuum line attached. Set it at 43.5psi and be done

Are you referring to the afpr? The psi shouldn’t change at all, regardless of engine temp.

😳😳😳😳 wow!!!is there video somewhere??

What is your correcting factor set at? Also, 28psi on 93 octane with a16g sounds like too much. Try lowering the boost to low 20’s and increase timing until you see knock

Hey. Welcome to 11 years ago!!!

4g63

The rear bumper of the cake even mimics the warpage found on the real thing!!! 🤣🤣🤣

A stock rebuild with a double synchro 2nd and 3rd gear should be good. I wouldn’t bother with the stroker in a fwd. the added torque will only amplify the traction problems you will encounter at those power levels

Look into the Jegs wheels. They are closer to a good fit, much much lighter than those wheels you chose, and are similar in price. This is the fitment of those wheels. They also make a style similar to the ones you were looking at

Those are truck wheels. Why would you put them on a DSM.

Any improvement on 60’ times?

Why not just locate a stock rail and use that? How much power do you plan on making?

Full boost at almost 6k? Does elevation slow spool up that much? Why does boost drop off so much?

Does anybody know if anyone has these in stock yet? Last I checked a few months ago, everyone was back ordered.

Nobody uses the 5 bolt housing anymore. Everything is either 4 bolt or vband.

Penetrating oil and slowly work it back and forth. Or try a little heat with a propane torch while slowly applying pressure back and forth

That should be the first thing you do. This will add credibility to your ad.

How do you know the head was ported abs polished? Is there paper work showing the engine build to verify this?

Try not to have so much exposed wire outside of the lug. I know you have it covered with heat shrink, but it’s good practice to have the insulation as close to the connector as possible. Less exposed wire. In the car audio world, crimping is preferred over solder.