I would also look into a CFDF. If you want it to shift like butter and hold all the power but not be as stiff as a 2600, the CFDF is 2500lb and will do the job. It is not for people who like to drag race though.

Many similar cars, as you say, start with that manufacturer's small/economy car chassis. Our's is the Chrysler "D" platform which is a chopped down Galant chassis, a "bigger" midsized car instead of them building it off the Mirage. We're more like an Accord or Camry coupe rather then a Civic or...

BS. There's a reason why most manufacturers AVOID building cars like this. They rack up warranty claims and they tend to get abused and modded. I'll admit the DSM isn't the best out there, but they really got it right when they were building Evos (in Japan). I just don't think the Normal guys...

The Hyundai GC4S is the 2.4L 6-bolt.

Which LSD? I have a Quaife, but if I were heavy into drag racing and making big power I would have gone with a KAAZ.

And you already ruled out a bad head gasket? Sounds like all the symptoms to me.

That was 12 years ago and I had just gotten my 2G. I feel old now.

Then there's something else wrong with the car. You should be able to maintain similar gas mileage to a stock DSM if all you change out is the turbo to a 16g and keep it at factory boost.

The stock fuel and the stock computer will have anough headroom to deal with the Evo3 at stock boost so you will not need to tune. I'm not saying improvements can't be made to a stock tune, but I wouldn't waste effort trying to max out a 10psi set up.Once you can afford a better fuel system...

Ejecto seato, cuzz.

If you are on stock boost levels with no way to control the injectors - stay with stock injectors.If you are going to flash your ECU or use 'Link go reasonably large. ~1100 is a popular size and they run shy of $400.

Awesome. You guys say he shouldn't get a sunroof because they leak and make the car heavy but then some of you suggest he cut his car up in a way that was never intended or designed, add a bunch of bracing and hope and pray a hack job like that doesn't leak either. At least a sunroof can be...

Maybe look into a GReddy sandwich plate.

If you want a sunroof, get one. Just have it professionally done so it doesn't leak. It will probably run you any where from $500-$1000.

I don't hear much about 2.6Ls. Seems like the consensus is that the bore is large and the rod angles are extreme and the BC kit is the only one I've even heard of.If an auto can be built stronger then a typical manual, then a 2.6 auto would be nasty. Good luck with the build.

I think a resonator is going to more or less reduce the harshness, raspiness and not necessarily overall volume and be less restrictive then adding another muffler.

Thanks man.I'll look into that VRSF kit, hoping to clean up my engine bay a bit and replace my Hahn.

Oops, it seems they call it "hose from hell" just some hard to get at coolant hose that wears out on those cars.

I mean, yeah - putting in an extra resonator/muffler up where the cat would be is a great idea if you don't want a loud exhaust.

So what's the best, shortest route, 2G intercooler that lets you keep your fogs? ETS or Punishment or...?

Just when I "forget" about these cars, one seems to pop up. Good luck with the build. Don't let that "hose of death" or whatever those guys talk about with those cars get you down.

People on the west coast complaining about not having enough car events to go to does not compute.

What an interesting read. I gotta give you props for your bravery and commitment. Hope you continue to stay off the pills.

When you say you used the same head, did you not have it machined at all? Sounds like somethings warped and letting water in, unless it is the turbo.

I think I remember that, it was a special edition car and they were all green and gold.

It takes a custom crank (like ~94mm), so they are usually very pricey. Most of the wild ones I see come from JDM builders like JUN and Tomei for Evos. I think most people will just say build a 2.3 stroker using a 4G64 crank in a 4G63 block.

I don't think you worry about outflowing the stock head until you get above 900whp or something...At any rate, I think I would be looking into at least a freshened bottom end, like someone's "stage 1" build or go with forged internals before I tried to turn it up to 30 psi.

Yeah, that looks good. I say instead of the Holset go full Garrett and get like a 6262.

That's because it only looks good on a 2Gb. Basket handle for life.:DMoving a Talon spoiler from where it is supposed to fit, just doesn't work IMO, and so is putting different spoilers on from different cars. I think an Evo spoiler would look ghastly on any Eclipse.I think a Talon or...

I've seen you post in this and other threads and you've gotten more then just criticism and a slap in the face. But whatever.The site has all the info you need, you just need to search and read it. Every week someone new comes in starting a thread like this "How can I make 6, 7, 8, 9, 1000+...

272/272 would be the smallest I'd run on a stroker. OR you'd be better off talking to one of the more popular cam builders that may have something designed specifically for a stroker, or get their recommendations. But you just gotta let the whole gas mileage thing go or just stay 2.0.

Its necessary if you want to realize the potential of your engine. I wouldn't go through the trouble of building a stroker and saddling it with stock cams. Mitsubishi would've put bigger cams in if they had made it a 2.3L from the factory. Not 272 big, but certainly bigger then stock.

I used to beat on this car a lot when I first got it and it did lay down on me a couple of times. I believe I had to have it towed a total of three times since I bought in 2001. These last several years I've learned more about it, stopped abusing it, and I haven't had any issues with it except...

Ignore what all the noobs above me said get yourself sorted with a wideband. I have an AEM.

Yes, big cams and a bigger engine will tend to use more gas.

FWD hate aside, it is odd how you went from hating the idea of a turbo, hating on DSMs for not being as good as Hondas because you couldn't just slap together a 350whp N/A after just a couple of weeks owning one and now are all in on skipping straight to a stage eleventyteen turbo with 700whp.

Does it not also have to do with not having them braced? Hanging some heavy turbo off of one and then no supporting framework could leave to cracks too, right?OP, there's a shop local to me that does custom manifolds for practically any application. I'm thinking something like that will run...

Exactly. Engines and transmissions are 100% Japanese sourced. Says so on your sticker if you still have it.Worrying about CW is so 90's.

I did not know there was a beast mode on this turbo. Nice job. Please try an external before you switch turbos.

It was "easy" for me, because I just took a few dollars out of my pocket. I don't own a welder so I just dropped the turbo off at a machine shop and picked it up the next day.Then you just run your vacuum lines to your external WG and it handles regulating excess exhaust pressure.

If he only had it 3mos, maybe the guy before him did it. Either way its always worth to drive, crawl under, inspect a used car before you buy it.Just take them off.

He's a Spyder so he has a 4G64.

Man, that car is just soo nice. I really appreciate the attention to detail with the JDM style badging and details.

I just had my flapper welded shut.

I don't get what you're asking. You say you're getting heatsoak, so why not try out a bigger I/C? Until then, you'll have to turn the boost down.

Sounds like you got multiple issues. Running too rich with a blown head gasket and a boost leak(s).

I used to use Syncromesh but now I use Redline MT-90. I use OEM Mitsu fluid in my Evo.I don't see how if Syncromesh is only for FWD that that means it rules out AWD Mitsus, which are basically FWDs themselves. I'm thinking they are specifically not wanting you to use it in RWD cars and trucks.

I think this is sacrilege and unholy, :| but I want to see how this compound turbo thing is going to work out. So for that alone, you have my blessing.:)

Yeah, its the same drop all around, but for some reason 1.2" is the number I remember. I don't think there was any fab work done, but it was a while ago. I did install camber correction kits front and rear.

I guess I wouldn't spend so much on Defis. I'm being a hypocrite because I have them in my Evo, but if it came down to a choice between them an exhaust, I'd rather just get some cheaper Autometer gauges that work just as well......but those Defis sure are pretty, and that opening an closing...