Based on my previous experience, you can (with a little work) get the purchaser's cell phone number through ebay. If you search under customer support "i want to contact a member" it will ask you if you are the buyer or seller. Follow the instructions and you should get a phone number out of...

Thanks for the input, that helps me narrow it down further.

Yes, boost leak test complete. As I mentioned, the idle issue only comes to life after 20 minutes of running. A boost leak is a consistent problem and would like be a bit more obvious.I am just wondering if this is a more typical symptom of FIAV or EGR or if there is something i'm missing...

Thanks for that link, but as I mentioned I have gone through that entirely already, I am asking for opinions based on experience.Thanks, Grant

So I Just need some quick advice.I followed Terry's Talon Troubleshooting link to my best ability.1995 GSX. Only mods are FMIC, 3" exhaust, Greddy upper and lower intercooler piping, Greddy BOV.High idle only occurs after running the car a minimum of 20 minutes, not a minute...

Thanks for all the info, this would all make sense as my experience has all been with the 1g 4g36s in the past.Yes and impressive that gofer you noticed the transmission is freshly rebuilt from Jacks Trans in Colorado Springs.

So I just bought this 95 GSX, and I can't seem to determine a few things under the hood of this car. I apologize for the lack of knowledge, but certainly appreciate any and all input.What turbo is this car running? Serial reads A/R48 M24 2 <WL> I think it's a T28, but not sure about that...

Thanks, I certainly appreciate it!Grant

What do you call this part?Came off of 1990 Talon TSi FWD. Mounts against the firewall near wiper motor.Thanks for your help!Grant

The easiest way to identify your issue is going to be to pull out your radio unit, check to see if there are any obvious things disconnected, then test any one speaker speaker lead to make sure there is continuity.Most likely it is a failed head unit. If that one gave 15 years of service it...

It is most likely a clutch issue, as you said it slips under boost when fully disengaged.So to directly answer your question, yes, that does sound like a reasonable explanation as to what your issue is. I think you will be surprised when you see the clutch disc when you take it out.ALWAYS...

Check all your grounds first off.It could also potentially be a starter, and is producing that symptom because the solenoid is not engaging properly once it reaches a certain temperature.

Make sure you check the timing belt covers. Sometimes when they are reinstalled if they aren't seated just right the cam pulleys and/or the accessory pulleys will rub. That was the case in one of the 420A's I worked on.Grant

When I read your symptoms, my first thought was crank angle sensor, which you mentioned. Have you checked the readings on it?Otherwise the only thing it could be is a spark related issue, since we know its not fuel or air as you mentioned your a/f meter reads rich when it's misfiring.

I would first clean your throttle body (carb/throttle body cleaner from auto parts store and rag) Make sure there is no carbon buildup where the plate sits closed.Next step I would add a can of SeaFoam to a topped of tank of premium gas. Run it through and see if your issue still persists...

I actually did research for quite some time prior to posting this thread. I wasn't able to find anything talking about putting a 91-early 92 motor into a stock 90. I would appreciate if you would have any advice.

DSMonster - I did go in to see what is wrong. There is rust on the cylinder walls. Crank will not turn. Apparently water sat in it for some time, though no other part of the vehicle has water damage.You suggested just swap another 6 bolt motor - now does that require any other...

It will not "mess up" your alignment unless you adjust, loosen or remove your tie rods/rod ends.Depending on how bad your ball joints and control arms may be in it may be wise to align it afterwards because of excessive play prior to replacement.

Thanks for the input, but I don't have any desire to build this motor as a stroker. I will be using it as a daily driver and would like to maintain some amount of reliability with the vehicle. I will not be modifying this vehicle excessively. I already have a high horsepower vehicle and this...

Hey Guys,Need some advice here:I recently purchased a 90 Talon TSi FWD Turbo 5-sp. It has a seized engine.I need to acquire a new engine for the vehicle. I am not 100% sure which would make for the best transition (smoothest)I know several things are different on 91-94 models...

There is a nice write up on the conversion with some pictures listed herehttp://www.ecanfix.com/users/mdhamilton/ecuconversion.html

Thanks a bunch for the prompt responses there guys, I really appreciate it.It turns out we had a bad ECM, so after a series of tests, we decided to try another. The fact that the 90 ECMs differ from the 91-94 didn't help the availablitiy of them. Anyway, Car runs great.

Thanks for the quick response.So ideally, where do you test the fuel pressure on DSMs?

This vehicle is not the one in my profile, this vehicle is a 1990 Talon Tsi Turbo FWD completely stock setup.Here's the situation:Initially when I got the car, it would intermittantly run really rich and choke out. Other times it would run so-so. I replaced the plugs, plug wires, battery...

Good topic discussion here, I never knew all the perks to the cyclone previosly. Thanks to everyone here for their input.

I had a nice leak that sounded as if it was coming from the same location. It ended up being simply a couple old vaccum lines. If you found the root of the problem this may be useless information to you, but it's worth a check as well, as it only leaked when i pressurized the system at 15psi...

I'm assuming this is all happening with the clutch fully disengaged.Look into an aftermarket FPR for your 255, or look for a 190lph somewhere, as you will be able to use the OEM FPR with a 190. As of now the 255 is a bit of overkill, and unless your going balls out, then it will be even with...

I had the same issue with my gsx and a big 16g here a year or so back. I first bought an evo III ported o2 and that didn't do much for me, except slow the creep down a little. Only after I had the turbo re-ported did the problem cease.

First off read up on idle surge causes, check the sources of them, make sure it's not a simple fix.http://www.dsm.org/how-tos/tttt/tttt3.htmlAfter you go through that tell us if the problem still persists.

Well with my '99 GS I had just put slotted and drilleds on the front, same oe size and all with some greenstuff pads and the breaking power increase was more than enough for the car.Here's a link for you to pick some up at a decent pricehttp://www.seffects.com/parts/EBCDP2830.htm...

Well in that case it could be a lot of things. Previously I thought you had said something about it being only when under acceleration, my apologies.My suggestion is take off that wheel and play around with it a little. As injector stated, it ay be something with your caliper pins, or...

Another problem that is related to the head gasket may be it hand.Check and make sure that the head studs are torqued properly. If a car sits for an allotted amount of time, componants can loosen. I know this is what had happened with my gsx when i found it. It didn't have a "blown" head...

Ok, so I understand you rotated the tires, but is there still noise when you are not accelerating coming from the right front wheel/axle?

So the noise went away then? You didn't clarify.Also, was the CV boot cracked in the front?What do you mean by "but the car still feel the same?"

Before you do the following, do as previously suggested with the coolant system, such as pressure test, thermostat, etc. If the problem persists, do the following:Once your car is running, put your thumb over the hose the goes into the coolant bottle(that would require removing it...

Well it sounds as if somewhere along the line the wires that communicate to the fuel meter have been reversed, or at least their signals have. It could also be a possibility that the sensors in the fuel level bar are shot, but the fact that this happened when you changed the pump tells me...

Hey for all the guys doing this (and I'm sure there are many) I wanted to add a couple notes here for you.First off, you don't need to buy the BISS online, you can pick it up at your local mitsu dealer with the o-ring for under $5. If your local dealer doesn't have it, they will have it...

I'm 30 min east of harrisburg, let me know if anything goes on, i'll be in.

On my 99 gs I had 18' wheels on 225/40s and there was no rubbing. The car was lowered 1.75"However, if you are to carry a heavy load and take a corner hard, it may rub. It's an easy fix though, simply bend the lip in the wheel well upwards.

Yes, what you last stated is correct.I am not sure myself on whether the down-pipe measurments are equivalent or not, however from there back is different as stated previously.From the rear the pipe is on the right for the 1st gens and on the left for the 2nd.

I have a 1g turbo manifold with no cracks on it I can hook you up with for cheap, if you are still interested. PM or email me.

About 3700 lbs.

Yeah, well it should run somewhat if you are getting fuel to the fuel rail, but as someone else mentioned it could be faulty injectors. make sure all the injectors are seated properly, and go from there.

I recently purchased a used MAF translator, which was set up to work on a 2g dsm. I have a 91 gsx i am installing this on and would greatly appreciate if anyone who also has a maf translator on a 1st gen could please list the numbers from the unit to the maf plug. I am clueless as to which...