It's only throwing the code with the 98 ECU in it. At first I thought it was related to the idle issue. But when I switched to the 97 ECU the P0446 went away and still have idle issue. So the code isn't the issue anymore. It not idling and leaning out is the issue. I'm going to do a spray test...

To tell you the truth I've never messed with it. So I don't know... I thought since it was working before and I didn't mess with it, it should be fine.

Finally had a chance to work on Nightmare today for a bit. First log was done with the O2 unplugged. Second log was done after switching to a known good TPS and O2 plugged back in. I'm still baffled... Gunna pull apart throttle body to clean it out. That's something I've been wanting to do...

Interesting. I do not have a wideband at the moment. I'll try to make a log today with the 02 unplugged. Thanks again for the help :thumb:

Sorry it took so long. It's been a long week at work :( Here is the datalog I took today. It started after some coaxing of the pedal, and stayed running for a minute or so. The download may take a sec to show up but it's there... I hope you can get something out of it. I'm still learning this...

Will do right after work. Thanks again for the help!

Thanks, I did disable it. Worked just fine for getting rid of the code. But the car is still dying at idle. Where this issue started being intermittent, it seems to be getting worse. It now will not start without holding the gas pedal down. I have determined that it must be unrelated to the...

Hello everyone. I have just installed a 98 ECU in a 97 GSX. The car is now throwing a P0446 code and dying at idle after 20 minutes or so of running. All the my research is coming up with very limited info. The only applicable post I have found is posted below...

Link??To the OP. I see no reason they won't be just fine but like some others here, those look like the old school style. I have Redline revised VLAs and they don't make a bit of sound. The revisions have different oiling hole sizes which will just allow oil to freely pass through for...

I'm sure STM would be able to get it for you even tho it's not on their site. I'd give them a call.

Rod bearing.... Not to say it it is definitely, just based on what I heard and a similar video I made... but I have had 2 with bad rod bearings and they both sounded like that...

It has to be a flashable ECU. It's likely the guy simply doesn't know the difference. 98's come with a flashable (the black box) ecu from the factory. I haven't seen too many change overs on 98's or 99's to an eprom ecu since Ceddy cracked the black boxes years ago. My 97 has a 98 ECU in it and...

Timing Belt VFAQI have never used the tool for the tentioner. I have always done it the hard way. By removing it and slowly resetting it in a vise, and putting in a pin. You did not mention anything about setting your oil pump... That's something you need to be sure is correct as well if...

Forever as long as you keep fixing her when she breaks. :p I just purchased a 97 GSX with over 150k on it. Never had a rebuild. Runs like a top. I expect it to hit 200k before I dig into the engine. That being said. Everything else is falling apart around the motor. It's all going to depend on...

Oh noz I've looked all over and I can't find a blunt pointy chisel bit... I guess I'll just use my slighly blunted not so pointed chisel bit :D Sry I couldn't resist :p

Personally I wouldn't touch a car with a flux welder. Not bad though for what it is. I think there is some great advice in this thread especially about the fiberglass filler as opposed to bondo/plastic filler. I did want to suggest you find someone with a gas mig setup and go use it so you can...

I actually did one on a 4g64 for $300 earlier this year. Poor kid's 3g was all riced out when he got it and water pump went out. I work at let's say a national parts chain part time and got him the parts a pretty good price. I used all Dayco belts and pullies and a GMB water pump.I notice...

Hate to bring up the battery thing again but as far as what you have noted in this discussion, you still haven't completely eliminated it as an issue. You said it was fully charged. Did it sit unused during your build this summer? A battery can be fully charged and still not produce enough CCA...

+1 I have encountered bad master/slaves that didn't leak externally many times.

It is.... I don't know why people lump Charger in with Mustangs and Camaros. Challenger is the direct competitor. Charger is a Sedan. Challenger is the coup. And is pretty much sick shit IMO.

Oh trust me I will :) Right now I'm waiting on a head gasket at studs. Should be here Tuesday. I want this to be an issue with the head gasket all along but it doesn't seem likely. So are your O2 readings as messed up as mine are?

Well I went for a third shot on the O2 sensor. Same result :beatentodeath: . Did a 10 minute datalog and a new problem starts running its way out and to the floor :notgood: (eventually very agressively). Perhaps the FAILPRO head gasket was to blame for all my woes... Cometic head gasket is on...

The O2 sensor was replaced, twice... A bosch and a denso were both used. I have the bosch in there now.Edit: Looking back I see that I noted a new O2 but I didn't tell you I exchanged the Denso the next day for the Bosch hoping for a different result. Sorry...

Sorry I did check that. The wire had continuity pin to pin. You said the low voltage could mean a lean condition. Wouldn't the car be running with default values after it sees the O2 isn't working? After which time the car should run fine? Does this mean something is keeping the computer from...

Did another log this morning. This time got it all the way to running temps and with a few more types of data. Does the O2 voltage start cycling properly only in closed loop? If so I'm seeing the O2 stay at .02V(generally). Which if this is the case then it's obviously never going closed loop...

Great info. Thank you very much. I'm attaching the last log I did I got it to 183 or so before shutting off. It took me a minute to find the sweet spot but i got it to idle for a few minutes... Are there any other things I should be logging? And no I don't have a WB gauge. What in the world...

OK so today I will do the log again but get the car warmed up first... So you're saying the O2 sensor creates it's own voltage via reaction with the exhaust gases? Does the ECU enter closed loop mode at operating temp? If the ECU is in open loop what does it use instead of the O2 sensor...

Ahh thanks. I'll do that next time. I checked it again, there is just no way its connected to the cruise. I even switched them again just to be sure and it gets waaay worse when I do that. It wont fully fire in fact... It's also a bran-new O2 sensor WTF Sooo lets look at that. Forgive my...

Finally got my Open Port 2.0 yesterday. Just got it hooked up and logged for a minute while I kept it running by feathering the gas. I uploaded the log I have and linked it below. I just started messing with this so if I didn't log something properly, or if I made it too hard to read or...

#1 You MIGHT save 50lbs including the support beam and center console and radio etc... #2 no apps exist for droid that will give you all you need although "dynomaster" will give you some gauges, and one called speedo isn't bad but that's all it is. #3 dsmlink or evo scan may give you some...

Thanks for the info. I'm off to work now. I'll read on it while I'm not busy there. I'm going to pick up an O2 sensor this evening. This will be the first part I have actually thrown at it. I've tried desperately to keep from part tossing but it seems inevitable. I'm still kinda confused over...

LOL doesn't sound crazy at all. In fact I already checked that and double checked it after I read your post... I never took that part of the cruise off and never unhooked the harness from there. But for the sake of diagnosing, I did switch the plugs expecting to see a change because the O2 was...

Well, all the sensors I could test resistance on all check out. As do the Coils, etc. The only sensors still not tested are the crank, knock, O2, and MAF sensors. And even though the computer was working fine when it went down I'm beginning to suspect it as well.BTW the ticking has pretty...

That video is starting up and letting it idle it self. I can feather the gas and make it idle at 2k or so and it misses but it dies immediately after I let off.No CELs. Of course it hasn't had any time actually running long enough to trip one. :mad:Turning the crank with out the spark...

OK so I have checked spark and fuel now, as well as checked for vacuum leaks. Nothing. Can anyone tell me if a bad MAF or CAS or Crank sensor would cause this issue?

Well I finally got a chance to recheck everything and found that even though I checked it before the CAS was 180 out :cry: I fixed that and now it is at least running much better. But I cant keep it running without feathering the gas and it has a bad miss. Basically doing the same as before but...

Thanks guys. I haven't had time to take pics of the timing. But I am starting to think that's the kind of issue I'm having. It's just hard for me to accept that I did it wrong again even after all the checking I did. :ohdamn: I'll get back on it this weekend. Thanks for the plug info too! :hellyeah:

Hey all, I just reinstalled my rebuilt head and when I start the car it runs very rough and dies. :cry: I did all the procedures with the new timing belt and hardware. Straight edge on the sprockets, made sure the oil pump/balance shaft was in phase, crank timing, etc. I've checked the CAS...

I'm copying this from a member that asked me a similar question about the process. Here was my reply...The holes were first welded shut and ground down. I used a piece of sheet steel backing on most of the larger holes. A few I couldn't get to so I just built up the weld and filled it in like...

The trunk lid is popped in the pic. There are 4 bump stops that are adjustable as well as the latch. It all sits pretty straight when tightened down. Good eye tho ;)

3 Reasons.1.IMO It doesn't look good on this car anywhere. It interrupts the lines in an intrusive way no matter where it is located.2.There is a small gap under where the light used to be that is a recess to allow for the larger piece of plastic on the top of the center tail light piece...

Thanks guys :thumb:

Ended up having to do the filler work again because as you can see from the pics it was a bit shallow after sanding. Second time was the charm tho... The pics show the last coat of 3 coats of epoxy primer. The first 2 coats were sanded and wet sanded. This one will remain thick until the rest of...

I've been seriously thinking about this. I was wondering what the rules say about how the handle has to work... I believe new Corvettes come with that feature as well. And it seems to me the rules would have to allow for a non-mechanical handle as long as some sort of hand hold is there because...

:aha:DING!!!!:hellyeah:I almost lost hope in this thread. Thanks for spittin' out some actually reasonable logic Calan! :thumb:

Replacement... All of the wheels doing it equally first says master cylinder then it says proportioning valve. I would also look for kinks in the hard-lines and wear on the rubber/ss lines. Check the prop-valve for leaks too. That's a sure sign. Beyond all these things. The only other thing I...

I was thinking master cylinder up until you changed it... I immediately think proportioning valve after that. Is it all brakes or just front? Both front or just one? If the answer is only both fronts than proportioning valve is highest on my list of suspects. As for a fluid swap changing the way...

Sick man! :hellyeah: Keep up the great work :thumb:

Absolutely welded them first :thumb: I was going to use an etching primer with 2k on it but decided I was going to use epoxy on the all over job when I'm done. So I bit the bullet for the pricey stuff and we're just going to use epoxy on these spots as well.

Here's a couple pics mid-filler. The cyclops is gunna be fun :sosad: Bout to go buy some glass and resin...