I have a line cutter. Just been seeing everyone says you need to taper it before flaring. Is that actually needed or just keep it as it is after cutting it

Or are you referring to the tip of it? I don't have a chamfer tool so I've tried using a file and that pic i used a grinder. Just wanted to see if it made a difference

Thats just what happens to it from clamping it. For some reason the line clamp is threaded so it scrapes it all up

The NiCo line does seem much nicer and easier to work with so hopefully that will do it for me. Thanks for turning me onto it!!

Here is how its turning out and the process im doing. No pic of the last step but you get the idea. I have a leak in only 1 out of the 3 connections now so I'm making progress. Gonna try making a new line with the NiCo line and see how it works

I wanted to get a picture of what I mean but didn't get a chance today, ill take one tomorrow.During the first flare when the die is in, it isn't staying level during the whole process. It will start to go crooked right away if that makes sense. I'll take pics of the steps on how I'm doing it...

Where do you get nico line at? I have been putting the line out to the first step in the die. Problem that keeps happening is the die keeps going crooked when flaring which then messes it up. No matter how i try it or setup it keeps going crooked.

Here is the line that went bad

Yea right by where it goes through the subframe and under the body where you can't get to it without cutting a bigger chunk out. It's been years since I've done brake line flaring and spent the last 2 days trying to get a good flare and keeps leaking. I honestly don't trust the flare and the...

So my talon has been sitting for awhile and finally motivated to get it back on the road again. My ds rear brake line rusted through and it's been some time since I've had to repair one. I'm thinking of just replacing the entire line with braided 3an line and my question is would I need any...

No leds

At the 10a turn signal fuse I have 11.5 volts with the key on and once I activate the turn signal switch it drops to 1.5 volts

This is the diagram I have from the factory service manual. I don't have any power at the bulbs when the switch is activated but no I have not tested the grounds for the switch or relay. I feel dumb asking but what's the best way to go about testing the grounds. It's been along time since I've...

I'm to the point of desperation here everyone. I can not figure out why my turn signals won't work. I have tried everything I can think of. It's a 91 talon tsi. My hazards work fine, all bulbs flash. Replaced all the bulbs, have tried a new hazard switch, turn signal column switches, new relays...

Checked and double checked all the fuses and they are all good. Guess gonna through absolutely everything one by one

Which fuses are you referring to inside the car? Only one I know of is 5 which is the turn signal fuse

Ok everyone looking for some other thoughts here. I was driving my 91 talon the other day and all of sudden my turn signals stopped working. I'm having trouble finding the cause here. All my lights work normally and hazards work normally.I have checked all the bulbs and none are blown, checked...

Kyb gr2s w/ tein springs. Believe it's a inch 1 1/4 lower. I'd have to check the exact specs of the springs. They were on the car already

My 1ga I bought last year came with some evo 8 wheels on it. I just put some new tires on it which are 235/45/17. I am getting some rubbing on the inside of the wheel well it appears right above where the tie rod is. Has anyone else ran into this problem? I wouldn't think the tires are to big...

well im not a transmissing expert so i don't feel comfortable ripping the transmission completely apart. I sure better not be the trans seeing it only has 60k miles on it, i sure would think a bearing would last longer than that, but im gonna put it up on stands and get under it to see if i can...

Yea it's constant with the speed during acceleration and decel. It does sound like it's coming from that area and the tcase or trans definitely shouldn't be making any noise yetThe noise basically follows the acceleration. The more I accelerate, the louder it gets. If I let off and slow it, it...

What are some signs or noises I might get from a bad intermediate shaft bearing? I am getting some driveline noise which is constant and I'm pretty sure it's the shaft bearing. I put one on my buddy had laying around which the condition probably wasn't excellent by means but I want to be sure b4...

I have been having this issue since i got the car running and dialed a few months ago. Everytime i tip into throttle a little bit or shifting, my a/f ratio is spiking the gauge lean for a second and then goes back to rich. It is especially a problem when driving at low speeds like around a...

What are the correct specs I need to put in the drivetrain specs under horsepower preferences to get my horsepower to read accurately. 1st-5th gear specs Drivetrain loss specsThe numbers I found aren't correct cause it dropped me down to like 6hp.

I am on the hunt for a Eagle banner or flag for the garage. I have a nice Mitsubishi flag hanging in the garage, but since pretty much i've always had and loved the Eagle Talons, i would like to have a nice Eagle banner hanging in the garage as well. I have searched and searched and i can't even...

That's my biggest thing. Yea I could easily just put a t fitting in and just hook up the factory oil pressure gauge. I hate looking at a gauge that isn't working. Is that manifold your using just one of the vacuum manifold or is it a specific one for liquids. It'd be nice to use it to monitor...

I was kinda of curious about something. Since i have a Forward Facing Oil Filter Housing that only has one sensor port on it and a aftermarket oil pressure gauge, my factory oil pressure gauge doesnt work or do anything. I was wondering if there was any way to wire something else up to it or use...

Id like to get a new subframe but thats usually easier said than done. Probably going to be pretty hard to find one thats close enough i can pick up. tmoney20g you posted that you had a rear subframe shipped to you? How much did that end up costing you

well the control arms look to be the worst to where it bolts to the subframe, its rusted pretty bad to where im guessing its not going to come out without falling apart or being damaged. The accentric bolt is quite rusted as well so i know in its current condition, there's no way to do a rear...

I have been debating which way to tackle this. My 1g awd rear subframe is the one big rusty area on my car. The eccentric bolt for the camber adjustment is so rusty, i know its never gonna budge or move and if it does its just going to snap. Also the support crossmember bushing is pretty much...

what should my airflow be with cams. still around .25 or .30

I'm working on dialing in my idle settings and wanted to get someone with more experience opinion on a few things. This is on a 1g dsm with pte 780cc injectors, base fuel pressure of 43psi, rewired walboro 255 and hks 272/264 cams, evo 8 mas, 6 bolt motor and SMIM. After setting up the base...

I used aircraft remover and carb cleaner.

it comes completely painted on the inside. so you must get it all off before you use it or else it will come off. The OEM pans coating is fine as it is quality and doesnt come off, but the aftermarket pans will.

Just wanted to give everyone a heads up incase you didn't already know. If you ever buy a aftermarket oil pan from like autozone or local parts store, make sure you remove all the paint that is on the inside of the pan. This stuff is not durable and it will start to come off and get in your engine.

at least ive never seen any layered ones.

really? the turbo to manifold?

I just came across that extreme psi now offers a HD 6 ply turbo to manifold gasket. Never have seen a layered gasket for the turbo to manifold. Was curious if anyone has tried one of these or some thoughts if itd be worth trying or not...

ignore my stupidity

yeah just was way way overthinking it

yeah i know its the direction of flow, but is it supposed to be flowing back into the tank or out of the tank

ok guys i have a dumb newbie question. im adding the vent line with the check valve on my gas tank and i for the life of me can't remember which direction the arrow is supposed to be going on the blue little check valve. Can someone let me know please. Im assuming its supposed to be pointing...

Dumb question but which direction is the arrow on the blue fuel valve on top of the gas tank supposed to face?

I dont have a charcoal canister, nor do i really want to put on back in. Would just a line with a one way valve work

right now there is just a few inch line coming off the vent laying on the tank and the gas smell is quite strong. my whole garage stinks. Trying to fix that

I am trying to figure out the best way to vent the gas tank. When the car was built, all the hard lines were removed so there is no more lines to use for a vent. What is the best alternative for venting the gas tank. Do i need to run a new line to the front of the car and put a one way valve...

I need to rust proof the underside of my Talon since i live in PA where road salt will eat your car alive. Im looking for some options on what is out there that works good. I know POR-15 works great, but just seeing if there are any other options out there that are quite as expensive as POR15 is.

Well I adjusted the pedal height and adjusted the clutch as far as I can adjust it to where there is only 1-2 threads left and my clutch is still dragging. So looks like I'm gonna have to replace the pedal assembly

i didnt know there was 2 different slave pistons

Yes they have been bleed and both appear to be fairly new. Came with the chassis when I bought the car so can't say 100% but neither are leaking and from past experience I'd say they both are in great shape. I'm going to bleed them again to be sure and raise the pedal height to spec to get some...