im still wondering this myself, i searched forever with no luck. anyone know this?

yea because isnt the 420a record like 13s in the 1/4?? wonder doing a stroker setup n/a if that is capable of some juice and wonder what numbers can be thrown down doing so... anyone find anything yet??

Jeff lives not to far from me, Great guy with great products and services. get it all!!! i did :thumb: my opinion of course

the whole idea sounds kinda weird but i cant seem to find anyone that posted info about there n/a stroker times. thought it would be interesting to see how fast you can make a stroker 2.3 or 2.1 or whatever in the 1/8th or quarter without turbo. anyone did this yet?? and what was your times...

still here, just waiting on some new slicks

how are your burnouts, u putting u some good smoke? 2nd gear burnouts?

well since your et went from 7.7 to 7.9 that explains the increase in mph from 92 to 95mphwith the taller slick (i.e. 24.5in) you get more top end mph on the back half (after the 1/8mi when running the quarter mile), my 23in m&h's hook well and they have a ton of passes on them (no where...

im running the exact same slick size, m&h brand i take it?, its a good combo for the 1/8mi the 23.0in tall changes the gearing quite a bit, loose a bit of top end on the big end (1/4) though.

what size are the slicks?

i do run slicks...rhamlinii said that the car is using the same hoosier drag radials that darren_p bought 10.70s@145

id get the 24.5x8x15, because your rim is only 6.5inches wide and thats the least wide tire of the 3, plus its a good size for plenty of power, how much power are u making, no need to get a size too big when it wont be to your advantage if your not making enough power to need a bigger slick.

should be a 9sec car with slicks if hes trapping 145:cool: id just try to throw some slicks on for a few passes to see what it could dothats still not bad for those radials either 10.70s

nice darren glad to see you finally got them, lemme know how u do with them at the track, good luck:thumb:

go for knock counts, narrowband o2 sensors arent very accurate for tuning purposespost up a log.

Was it the gasket the tb elbow to throttle body, or the tb to manifold?, or the tb shaft seals there are alot of places they can leak near the Throttle body, let us know after u fix the leak, then u can try out the maft again and go from there, once your certain you dont have any boost leaks

im still at it, last time out ran 12.8@105, still in the mid 1.9s for 60ft, i couldnt do a good enough burnout to heat up the slicks properly(ebrake not holding too well) (it was spinning pretty bad, had to ease off the gas in 1st gear, get back on it, i know thats really killing my time)...

are u running blowthru or drawthru(gm maf in stock location)?if u are running drawthru are u venting your stock bpv?check for boost leaks?what size maf are u running, 3in or 3.5in? dip switches should be set for 3in maf ( switches 1&2 off (pointing down)for 3.5in maf (switch 1...

awesome:thumb:, cars a badass

cool man, keep us posted how it does at the track when u get the new running shoes installed

im pretty sure the car should be off and key off when changing the base settings , as well as mode switches, and a battery reset when changing those tooas for the idle, mid, wot changes u can do that with the car running.

they make car chargers for hp laptops, just depends on the price between car charger or battery inverter i guess.

for stock 450cc injectors your AUX knob should be at 0, the base knob should be on 2. as for the dip switches (red box in the picture, bottom left of box) for the 3inch maf, dip switch 1 &2 should be off ( pointing down), if you have the 3.5in maf, dip switch 1=on, dip #2=off

so u are compensating for the 650cc with the maft right? what do u have your base knob set to? being that your a 2g, your aux knob should be on 5, and base on 7 for 650cc injectors, is that correct on your translator?

yep as well as 4g64 aka: 4GCS, G64B, there are several engines that are 6bolts, just depends on the specific years as to whether they are indeed 6-bolts. 4g61 too right?

yeah seriously friend , u can get away with using alot smaller injectors than 1600cc, i know you are upgrading your fuel lines with -AN, for feed and return. your gonna have a big pump etc.. seems like the norm around the dsmlink community or tuning community for that matter that really big...

man props to your weight reduction, 2650 with u in the car, all i have to say is wow man:rocks:

yea i did some 2nd gear burnouts too, they worked, im just trying to find out that if i replace the rear brake pads , since they are getting pretty thin, will the ebrake do a better job holding the car still.

getting them to smoke decent is what i need at the moment, they arent sticky enough so im not cutting as good of times outta the hole. i know how to get them to spin its just i cant sit there long enough without the car moving quite a bit, (i.e. i have a 2-step, ive done burnouts both ways.)...

hey a question for the fwd's here-I noticed last time out to the track i just couldnt quite heat my slicks up enough in the burnout box, i usually pull my ebrake all the way up then start my burnout, worked fine before. When i watch the videos i can see my rear wheels locked up and skidding...

i know a talon in orlando, fl, guy named johan , tuned by cft ( central florida turbo) that runs that size hoosier on their awd talon, running low 10s i believe, hes had them over a year.but that doesnt help u ### your fwd. slipstreams are pretty light, are u planning on getting a set of 4 for...

once u set the base(or make changes to it), reset the ecu. then u can play with the knobs. how much boost are u running? and when u say it leans out above 5k, are you wide open?

lets verify what are knobs/switches are set to, aux knob should be zero, base knob, on 2 (for stock 450cc) since your chip is doing the compensating., what size maf are u running?dip switches are as follows, switches 1 & 2 off for 3in maf switch 1 on and switch 2 off , if your running the...

the smallest size for 16in rims in the micky thompson et drag radials is the P255/50R16 (26'' x 10.5'' - 16'')which is pretty big, if your going that big might as well get those 26" slicks..those hoosiers are decent size for a 2g with 16in wheels

i know there was a guy 2g guy on the forums with 13in bogarts (stock brakes though) i wouldnt quite rule out 15inch rims not fitting even with the brake upgrade , i think it really comes down to specific rims (a rim more flat and open inside so nothing gets in the way of the calipers, possibly...

yeah u got it, aux stays at zero, base is 2.also on the 4 dip switches, the 4th switch i would leave (off)"pointing down" that will keep u in the MAF mode, alittle more user friendly for newbs to the maft.

base knob needs to be set to #2 for - 450cc injectorsand if your using the 3" maf, dip switches 1 and 2 are off ( pointing down)once thats all correct see how it runs then, u can play around with the idle knob a bit to help your idle out, good luck:dsm:

http://www.technomotive.com/howto/ecu1g/clutchwire.htmhere ya go!:rocks:

well the map sensor one is self explanatory by the above poster, as for the egr solenoid (Not used) because i dont even see the solenoid on the firewall anymore., Test Plug (not used)again its for testing purposes only.not too sure about the a/c one.

dont raise it too far to where its out of the turbos efficiency range, (which will create more heat and increase the engines chance of knocking) , start off smaller, try 20psi ( if u have all the supporting mods) do some pulls , log it look for knock, if there is none, increase the boost...

pic 5&6 could be the plug for exhaust gas recirculation (EGR) control solenoid, in your pic #5 it looks like this solenoid is missing from its slot on the firewall ( it may have been removed)this plug is almost identical to the fuel pressure solenoid plug, im just going with egr plug ###...

i believe that goes on the power steering pump, it aids the power steering pump cut-off at high rpms. look for an connector on the powersteering pump for it to plug into.

same as mine......

well what plugs into it? follow the plug that it connects to and figure out where it goes.... i just know mine plugs into nothing ( same color wires too), its not the knock sensor i know that much. but yea- trace what plugs into it to figure out where it goes though.

looks to be some sort of ground wire, i have a 90 tsi fwd, ive never seen this anywhere on mine, are u positive its off the car? also was this bolted to the intake mani, or was it just loose in your garage ( thinking u took it off when u took the stock manifold off?)

im not exactly sure what its for, i believe for some sort of diagnostics , (kinda similar to the plug you have to ground when adjusting timing.but its not that) its not vital to the car running.on my car this plug is there but is not used, i would not sweat it.

yes i know 97s dont come with eproms, but i just told him to check anyway, example( someone could of swapped in another ecu if his went bad and it just so happens to be a 95 model with eprom etc. etc..) so before you go buying one just be sure to verify that you dont already have one.but yea...

go here, http://www.dsmchips.com2g page http://www.dsmchips.com/2g.html1st things first, you'll have to remove your ecu and check to see if its an eprom ecu ( which u will need in order to use a chip) , jeff@dsmchips may be able to sell you a whole eprom ecu(if he has one), chipped...

damn pretty impressive amount of boost you were able to build on only the 3500 2-step

badass man:thumb: :rocks: keep up the good work

have u tried leaving the front agx's on setting 1 (softest) and setting the back to full stiff?