To answer your question, assuming the alternator is 20 percent efficient, you are talking about a total loss of 20 Watts electric, or 100 Watts mechanical, which is 0.132 horsepower.

It would be a lot of work and money to make a car that people would just make fun of.Not that you should listen to what everyone says, but there is just something...wrong...about a RHD DSM.

This setup actually makes a lot of sense. Fitting a 3" single exhaust on an AWD car is a PITA. This way you can get the same flow with two 2-1/8" pipes, and be able to route them without complex bends over the rear suspension. (I know, 2-1/8 is not easy to find, that is just how the math works...

It looks like it doesn't have the same size of hump that the OEM hood has, but it is hard to tell from the picture.As for the water problem, you need a baffle to keep the water off the engine. The hood is not going to come with one, unless you get a very expensive hood. Making one...

On one car that I MegaSquirt'ed, I replaced the transistor pack with a pair of power transistors from Digikey.com. (Directly inside the MS) Basically they are just high-watt NPN transistors that are well-potted. Actually replacing them is easy if you can solder. (Not weld) You can find...

There are several reasons why the Chinese-made eBay manifolds are so inexpensive.1) They use recycled stainless steel, which is closer to 319 than 304.2) They use really thin tubes. Easier to bend, easier to weld. Easier to break.3) They are actually MIG welded with a TIG pass just...

The ideal is to basically connect various parts of the frame together to prevent flex between the panels. If you brace everything to everything else you will make a stiff car... But you will also add a LOT of weight. The best thing to do is to simply stitch weld the panels.

If I had access to a machine shop again, I would make custom pulleys and accessory brackets. Back when I was in school I made a lot of brake and suspension parts. Since these are readily available, though, I would go with the brackets. So something rigid and adjustable, possibly allowing...

You will find that aluminum holds up remarkably well at high temps as long as there are no structural loads.

Is this a rising rate FPR?

Why did you empty them? With new lifters I always soak them in a jar of oil to make sure there is no air in them at all. Otherwise they may never pump up.

The brackets are just poorly made. I have never been able to completely eliminate the belt squeak on my car, even after replacing all belts with Gator belts, rebuilding the engine, loosening, tightening, the works. Then one day I got a laser level and found that none of the pulleys line up quite...

The little MC, which actually looks more like the symbol for Virgo, is found on most of the OEM alloy wheels I have seen... And I have never figured out what it means.

How are you trimming the bigger injectors? You haven't really said what kind of ECU you are running.If you just put 750's in a car without any way to adjust injector timing, it will not run. The AFR will be like 9:1. I tried it in my car for S&G.

Next time just use core mat instead of woven mat in the structure layer. Not too expensive and will make it ridgid.

I love carbon fiber (obviously, I am CF'ing anything on my car I can), but I don't really like the fenders. They might weigh 4 pounds each but the stock metal ones weigh like 9. Dollar-per-pound it is not a great deal; but they look nice if you also get CF doors and blend them in with a custom...

I think you already know the answer to this one.

I think the worst part is the rock to the roof. Everything else is easily fixed. Maybe a good time to upgrade to a better system? I have a SAFC and a II sitting on the shelf, both from previous owners of previous cars, that I promptly ripped out.

that makes sense. Yes, I have done a boost leak test. That was the solution to some of my other problems. I suppose I can do another! I will also write my MAF map to limit flow to 2.5g/rev. Well, I guess I need to calculate that since the FIC only adjust in frequency.

I am running a 16g turbo with Walbro pump, 750cc/min injectors, and the AEM F/IC-8 piggyback. I have water/meth injection, and have tuned the fuel trims and O2 targets to get a conservative 12:1 AFR in full boost and stoich below 5"Hg. I have the capability with the piggyback to tune MAF...

Recently there was an engine build competition between the major auto magazines. The engines were compared on horsepower/liter, torque curve, and cost. Guess which engine won? 4G63. It beat the RB26. It beat the K22. It beat the 2JZ. It beat a rediculous supercharged 502 Chevy. Seems to...

Look at a wrx and see how they baffle the tmic. Basically the air flow just needs to have a low point (like the loop seal under your sink) so that the water can drain out before it hits the filter.

You said you were in full boost, heard a pow! And the hasn't been the same since. You also saw you can't get more than 13 psi on a 16g. Sounds to me like you popped a coupler. Not a complete seperation or it wouldn't run right, but a tear that opens up in boost. Do a boost leak test to 30 psi...

This thread has been good for dispelling myths. I myself have always assumed that the switchable transfer case was by a switch or something... To think that you have to climb under the car to switch stuff around just to get FWD.And I had no idea that you had to have the JDM transfer case...

1. Torque convertor is slipping. Warm the car up and check the tranny fluid level. If low restore it to proper spec. This is the cause of most slippage problems.2. Clogged tranny filter. If you do find that the fluid is low, probably is a good time for a flush and fill with a new filter...

The same way OEM scoops keep water out. A baffle.

My suggestion would be to remove all the vinyl and replace it with cloth. Vinyl interiors just look cheesy.Personally I have generic bucket racing seats (grey covers to match the interior), purple Schroth ASM harnesses and texalium accents (to contrast the carbon fiber exterior). Lancer...

Yeah, I can see that. Good learning experience. But really I would recommend starting with some aftermarket lights. They have some with 2.5" projectors that look like they would swap straight out with some low-beams out of an RX330, and others with 3" projectors that it might be possible to...

Should be easy enough to fit. I have 245mm wide RPF1's in my car with no issues.

Work looks good, but I am still confused why you are running two projectors.... To double the weight and cost? The bixenon is all you need, the others are superfluous. There is no law that says you have to have four lights on the front, but even if there was you could just keep the high beam...

There is a reason it has never been done. The Suzuki engine is physically tiny, and the 4G63 is one of the larger 4-bangers I have dealt with. It would be like trying to squueze a V-8 in a DSM.

You can actually get CF wiper cowls pretty cheap, and that may be on my shopping list in the future. First I want to overlay the roof and the rare late-97 quarter window trims.Thanks for the opinions. I really don't think it looks right... But I will give it a few more days before I take it off.

Took me a while to do the overlay on this mirror housing. After installing it I don't know if I like it.It is not like it saves weight, I just thought it would match the rest of my CF stuff. But it is a drastic change. What do you think?

This is how most NHRA cars are. You can make the hood lighter if it doesn't have to be able to hold up with hinges.Basically you just need some Dzus 1/4-turn fasteners and brackets. They sit in tight. A hood pin is harder to get really tight, unless you want to get 4 of the expensive...

I got tired of my power locks not working. OEM solenoids cost too much and you have to tear everything in the door apart to replace them.So I got some aftermarket solenoids that cost $11 a piece. Here is how I installed them.You can see that I used 5-wire solenoids. This is...

The cheapest online place that I have found was Global Technology and Engineering. They have everything up to 4" in stock and can make anything up to sewer pipe size.However, I recently discovered a local place that has a mandrel bender. Sometimes it pays to look locally.

JM Fabrications makes one for the 1g. I suppose a 2g one could be in the works somewhere. It is really just a matter of making a custom bracket, though.Personally I don't see the need. My intercooler fits with the factory bumper, and almost half of the core is covered (by the bumper...

This one has me stumped. Right now I am running the stock TB with the ISC but no FIAV, running a 16g turbo w/ 750 cc injectors and F/IC-8 for tuning.I have done boost leak and vacuum leak checks. Actually after fixing a vacuum leak my problem got worse.So, after setting base idle...

Your A/C compressor is cycling because the system is overcharged. Depending on the outside air temperature, the low-side pressure should be between 40 and 60 psi... Too high and the compressor doesn't work right.I have made this mistake before. You can drain some of the refrigerant out of...

I use the F/IC and love it.You just need to get the F/IC-8. Not the 6. The 8 is configured with a frequency adjustment table that will trim the kharmann-frequency MAF that our cars use. Or simply clamp it.The 8 also has a built-in boost controller. You just need to use the AEM...

Good lathe work. I am also curious how much more vibration this will add. Are the rear diff bushings still OEM?I don't suppose you weighed the rear subframe when it was out? I am curious how much it weighs. Seems overly heavy from the looks of it. (Wondering if it would be worth it to...

Holding up fine so far. It hasn't gotten any yellower than it was on day one. Thanks to the liberal layer of clearcoat. I am going to do another tail with crystal clear epoxy to hopefully match the professional carbon better. Plus paint the tail first so the colors don't shine through in the...

Well, you DO have ABS, because that is your ABS motor. So there is something wrong with it, hence the light.

You are probably feeling vibrations that were already there but were damped out by the softer rubber line.Could be a slightly warped pressure plate, a throwout bearing going out, or even the dreaded crankwalk.

The BOV isn't working. How is the diphragm? Vacuum lines hooked up right?

Could be:Clutch Throwout Bearing Wheel Bearing Warped brake disk Damaged CV axle Loose wheel ...Basically anything that spins can cause these symptoms.

You might need to replace the BISS o-ring. With a broken one your idle will be very erratic. I have a similar problem and am now replacing it.Also, though, just know that tuning the BISS isn't easy on 2g. A lot of trial-and-error to get it set just right. It doesn't sound like you have a...

The easiest way to tell is the intake manifold. You have pictures? Or you can just compare it to engines you see on this site.

Yes.

Doing a roof overlay would be easy, albeit expensive. You would need 2 yards of 50" wide twill to cover it, and about a half gallon of resin. It would add several pounds. But since there are no really complex curves and convenient trim to cover up the edges, it would not be that hard.