I modified a stock 1g coil pack mounting bracket to hang it off of the factory driver side engine mount. Since the mount is attached to the motor, the coil pack & bracket do not move independently from the motor itself. Factory spark plug wire lengths work in this location as well
pull the manifold & look for oil... if in he head it is motor related. If oil is only in the turbine housing & downpipe then suspect the turbo shaft seals
Downpipe, T-case, inspection cover, old flex plate bolts, PS axle, trans mounts (2g has 3), starter, trans to block bolts. I would then drop the trans out the bottom with a cherry picker. But you might also have to remove the fore/aft brackets from the trans to drop it (my 1g has 3 motor mounts...
I recognize that 6 pin plug... it's from an old AudioVox all-in-one (aka el cheapo) alarm system... the siren housing also contained the alarm receiver / brain. You then wired all of the car connections through this harness (door pins, ignition, trunk pin, etc,etc).Your best bet would be to...
Redline Synthetic High Temp Racing ATF here. It's decently priced, if you buy it in the gallon size, vs individual quarts:https://www.redlineoil.com/high-temp-atfI've been running this is the same trans now, for some 9 years now... and in a previously built (used) trans for some 12 years...
Because it's still binding with the starter removed, I don't suspect that it is a starter-related issue.It's hard to tell from the pics, but are you sure that the torque converter is fully seated in the trans? From the looks of it, you've got a Sinister Racing TC in there... I had to rotate &...
Ah.. I'm running a relocated & re-wound Saturn Alt (thus the larger 120A fuse rating).As for the engine bay grounds, I took an different approach; I also ran a 0/1 run of a ground cable (grounding it along the way, wherever I could find a decent place to ground) with the front/rear 0/1 power...
On the trans side of the engine, there's not much that can leak. BUT I've seen pinhole leaks form in the turbo's 90* rubber coolant return line that returns it to the lower thermostat housing... just replaced one the other day
It's my understanding that the 2g w4A33 pans have the same gasket / foot print, but are slightly deeper in the pan outer dimensions, thus increasing the ATF capacity slightly. By how much exactly though, I'm not sure
A little late, but I would recommend that you run a larger than 2awg wire front to rear run. Then use fused distribution blocks on either end. 0/1 wire would be the minimum that I would use for any battery relocation project.I'd also stay away from using those AGU glass fused blocks. They...
That would explain why they were intentionally set off from the factory timing marks. I would be very careful when doing your timing belt, if you plan on reusing either of those 2.0L OEM cam gears.I'd mark the 2.0L gears current location @ TDC before removing the old timing belt... I'm...
No problem... just be sure that the gears that you've got on the car are in fact 2.0L DOHC gears first though.Since one of those was discontinued, you might be better off with adjustable cam gears. But then you'll need to degree the motor in order to set them up correctly... this is why I...
I've always used the OEM 4g64 DOHC Galant timing belt... not sure about any others thoughExtreme psi has that too:http://www.extremepsi.com/store/product.php?productid=20265&cat=865&page=1
Yep. Even the water pump. The BSEK is also the same, but if you already have that installed, then just leave it as it is & line up the rest of the timing marks
If you're talking about OEM cam gears, then yes, it has to be off a 94/95 Galant 2.4L DOHC. That was the only year that they came out with that setup in the states, IIRC. Adjustable cam gears would also suffice, as long as you have a way of setting them up correctly.I went with the OEM 4g64...
I wouldn't try to line the mounts up just yet... they could be offset in order to accommodate for the lack of 2.4L cam gears. I opted to run my 4g64 2.4L with the OEM timing belt & the 2.4L Galant DOHC cam gears. Both of them used to be available from www.extremepsi.com, but apparently one of...
I ran into this as well, with the factory auto brackets + MT mounts in the F&R... I ended up using a small bottle jack to press against the subframe & the rear motor bracket to aid in clearance'ing the Saturn alt pulley to the subframe rail. I also ditched the OEM Saturn 5 or 6 ribbed alt pulley...
Ouch! -I get around 150-190* (F) out of my 1g w4a33, while cruising.. but I'm also running a huge trans cooler; a Fluidyne ~20x10" that I mounted between the FMIC & the radiator. I tapped my AT Temp gauge sensor right in the AT pan. Where do you have your temp sensor installed at?Also, where...
That's an interesting oil pan that you've got there... that added about a quart capacity?I've got that lower flywheel inspection cover, if you're interested... Ordered it a while back, for an auto, but I think they sent me a manual
I've found it beneficial to make use of an old barrel strap & a cherry picker to pull the trans up from the floor. This allows me to twist the trans backwards, towards the firewall roughly 15-20* to get both dowels to line up easier. There's a small straight edge on the lower, front of the w4a33...
It's not a connector, at the firewall location, but only a place where the harness passes through it... you will need to dig deeper to find where the harness terminates, at the various locations, with the majority of them being at the ECU and/or TCU (if equipped)
That's from an old Clifford alarm system. You can remove it & all of the wiring that's connected to it.Pay attention to the outboard relay that has a white/brown, green, & two 12AWG white/red wires coming out of it... that is the starter interrupt relay (a basic function of most car alarms of...
There are a few tabs that secure an inner plastic retainer that's right behind the rubber grommet material... gently pry the rubber around from the back of this white plastic liner, and you'll see the clips that help hold it to the firewall. These clips push towards the center of the plug, to...
That's a 1990 throttle body. You won't want to run that on a 91+ 1g without rewiring the ISC. The TPS will also need to be rewired in order to run it. If I were you, I would sell that one off & rebuild your 91+ 1g throttle body that you've got there. Steve over at www.throttlebodys.com might...
I had a Topline oil pump seize up on me, on a fresh 2.3L stroker build... it had helical cut gears, along with the stubby shaft (OEM 1.6L Mirage) BSEK in this build. I found similar wear markings, that (to me anyways) indicated a large amount of side loading of these gears was responsible for...
I have a bunch of 1G-related service manuals... Let me host them up on my DropBox real quick;1g Electrical:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/7ft2154jnpijxv2/1g_circuit_diagram.pdf?dl=0GVR4 Electrical:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/8pt2f9t9l4r9f2h/galant_circuit_diagram.pdf?dl=01G Auto...
I'm not exactly sure what the 'formula 5 prelube' is, but I used the pasty white stuff that came with the ES kits... it resembles tree sap, on a nice, hot day... it's quite nasty stuff!I've been on my full 1g ES poly bushing set for over 75k & 12 years (roughly). No squeaking what so ever, to...
Yep, covered that back in http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/4g64-source-vehicle.517306/#post-153687264It's really the rod cap & rod hardware that interferes with the $1&2 and #4&5 main cap braces. The beefier the rod, the more you will have to clearance, both in the bridged main caps & the...
I don't think you're understanding my build... I did use a 4g64 block (& 100mm crank) with the stock trans & location. -Well a narrow 4g64 trans-mount block that was sourced from a 91 Expo, not a RWD MightMax wide block, like what the OP was originally asking about.Everything was mostly a...
Interesting thread! Now I don't feel too bad about my age & years of involvement with these things... 42 years on the clock here, with 20 years of them owning my Talon & a few more before than in my old NT Eclipse (got to start somewhere right?) I wouldn't have that any other way!I have to...
I'm partial to the front 3000GT VR4 Quad piston upgrade myself... they are a HUGE improvement over my factory dual piston caliper setup! I picked up the brackets that allowed me to use them a while back from another member (Garfield, IIRC). They do require larger wheels though (the Evo 8 Enkies...
I would think so, but I don't know for sure.As for the oil pan & pick up, the MightMax oil pan is deeper & has a different ramp angle that would interfere with our AWD transfer case, not to mention that there is no turbo oil drain tube provision in it. The oil pick up tube is also longer than...
:thumb: I was under the impression that the 4gcs blocks were native to Hyundai applications. -Not that that matters much, other than you do need to block off some of its oil return galleries... other than that, they're just as stout as their Mitsu 4G64 equivalents.
Ah, ok. You're actually looking to build a 2.3L stroker setup then (4g63 block, with a 4g64 100mm crank, & 150mm stock rod length = stroked 2.3L). I don't know about the MightMax cranks being 6 or 7 bolt.I thought that you were looking to build a 2.4L (4g64 block, with a 4g64 100mm crank, &...
Having done this in my 1g already, I know that the 4G64's in the MightyMax's are about 1.5" wider than the trans-mount 4G64's found in the FWD/AWD Summit's, Expo's, and Colt Vista Wagons. Basically any RWD 4G64 block won't bolt up to your GVR4's narrower transmission.The 4G64's found in the...
Totally spaced on this... here's a pic of my cars factory AWD AT shifter cable... it's routed up through the floor pan of the car, in the driveshaft tunnel:https://www.dropbox.com/s/hlp790428xuiy9v/20180213_143339.jpg?dl=0
Just an FYI here, coming from a factory 94 AT AWD car...a) The factory AT shifter cable runs through a small grommet in the drivetrain tunnel. It might not reach and/or connect at the right angle if you used the MT cable pass-through provision in the firewall.b) The factory AT AWD fore & aft...
Yup.. that's an after market Car Alarm LED. I know, I used to install those right in the unused 1GB factory blank, where the 90-91 Pop up light switch used to be. Nothing a #1 Uni-Bit can't handle.Now a days installers are known for putting them in the top of the steering column cover, or on...
Now would be a great time to rid yourself of that 1g ABS @enriquez2000, if you were ever thinking about it, now that everything is so accessible:https://www.dropbox.com/sh/hzuqfuksuhf2oub/AACKpw7oPJwc-0CVaXk75W9ja?dl=0ABS delete
Having done the swap over from a 1g 7-bolt, to a 6-bolt 4G64 (sourced from a 92 Mitsu Expo LVR) many, many years ago, I can say that it is a direct swap (shy of needing a 6-both flexplate). I reused the 7-bolt pilot bearing & starter plate from the OEM 7-bolt that came with the car. Everything...
with a 14mm socket & hex drive adapter, along with a strong cordless drill (12V or higher). I usually prime my oil system until I don't see any air bubbles coming out of the oil ports for the cam rollers.Timing belt procedure can be found here:http://www.vfaq.com/mods/timingbelt-1G.html
Did you pack the oil pump after your tear down? This helps prime the oil system on initial start ups... something to consider, if your oil pressure gauge checks out ok. If anything, remove the timing belt & spin up the oil pump drive pulley with a large cordless drill, before trying to start it...