I'd try to use the 4g63 fwd turbo transmission if you could, although I don't know if you could squeeze both that AND a 4g63 between the frame rails. You might need a little modification to get it in there. From experience, the Geo Metro transmissions often grenade with the 3 cylinder's...

People do things like that all the time -- like making a TD05H-20g with a clipped turbine wheel, or as you say, the frank turbos, mutt turbos, or any number of other garrett/TD05H hybrids.

A 16g housing won't fit on a 13g because all the DSM 16gs use the TD05H turbine wheel and the 13g has a TD04. The wheel is much smaller on your turbo and won't work at all with a 7cm TD05H housing.

I missed the part where the accessories were still working. In that case yes, I'd agree with Defiant in the others, in that you sheared the teeth off the belt down near the crank sprocket area.

What's very common, especially on cars that have suffered a timing belt job by a novice or lazy mechanic, is that the bolt on the end of the crank snout that holds the crank sprocket on doesn't get torqued down properly. The crank sprocket comes loose and for a while, the woodruff key takes all...

It's a ball bearing T28 - it's an excellent turbo, but quite small for your car, and will require much more effort to get working on your car than it's worth. it will require custom intercooler piping, a custom manifold, and a custom downpipe. Unless you're able to make all of those yourself...

Take the pump apart, grab some measurement tools/feeler gauges, and see if all the clearances in the used pump are good, compared to the factory service manual spec. If there isn't any thrust wear in the oil pump housing itself, and the gears look perfect and all the clearances check out, I'd...

I'm saying be very careful, and don't abuse it any more than you already did. Broken in absolutely perfectly, yes, kevlar has a good friction coefficient, and lasts a long time.It is not tolerant of abuse during the break-in period however, and it doesn't like heat very much either.

According to fidanza, the 3.2 is a pucked clutch, but with 100% kevlar buttons. Kevlar is very very picky about how you break it in, and is known to slip quite easily before it's broken in properly. I've used two kevlar faced clutch discs so far, with no issues, but I followed their break-in...

Short answer: no.The compressor housings are definitely a no-go, I know for a fact the compressor wheels are different.The exhaust side is a little more iffy, but I believe the SR20s had a more aggressive turbine wheel trim, and so that likely wouldn't work either.

If you were that low on oil, and it's now flickering at idle, you probably have excessive clearances in all your bearings now, from the rapid wear. It's likely not a bad sender or connnection, becuase oil pressure goes up with RPM, even with a heavily worn oil pump, or chewed up bearings --...

What you've described doesn't sound too bad.Lots of things can cause pops or sputtering in the upper RPMS. Usually this is caused by an air leak somewhere in the intake system after the mass air flow meter. If you can phyiscally move the airflow meter and the tube connected to it is...

It's not a good deal.Those chinese-made 16g knockoffs are terrible, and have a lifespan often measured in minutes.Get a real mitusbishi 16g for $500 plus the install kit, or a 14b used for $150 plus an install kit, or get another stock replacement T25 for $125. (used, in the...

Sounds like your clutch wire, or your vehicle speed sensor isn't sending the right signal to the ECU. Make sure to check both. The two (or three) step rev limiter uses both as input to decide when to engage which rev limit.

It's an alternator problem.The alternator does require the battery upon startup to charge its field coil, which allows the alternator to actually function. However, once the car is started, you can remove the battery completely and throw it away and the car (and alternator) will continue to...

What the people here are trying to ask is -- what exactly makes you think a 1g awd is the best car in the world? All of its strengths you're going to eliminate by doing the swap, and you're going to keep all the bad stuff that makes it not all that great.We love these cars because they're...

If you swap the VIN#s and you get caught, in most places any insurance you might have purchased is null and void. If you get into an accident, you're screwed, and will be paying for it *all* out of pocket, including all damages and injury claims for the other person.Not a fun thing to have...

Keep in mind that Garrett rates its turbos conservatively, and their compressor maps are designed such that you should be able to operate the turbo somewhere on their compressor map and have it last 100,000+ miles with no issues.Most compressor maps end at the 65-55% efficiency level. For...

Actually, both MKIII and MKIV USDM supras were 3.0L I-6 engines. The MKIII being the 7MGTE, and the MKIV being the 2JZ (turbo or non-turbo, depending on the model.)The 2.5L I-6 (1JZ-GTE) was only available in non-US markets like Europe and Japan. They were never sold here in North America...

You need to give us more information -- what wastegate you're using, how you have it hooked up, what spring you have in it, etc.Your profile says you're running a T66, so you're obviously external.If you have a low pressure spring in there (like 7psi or so), you will only be able to increase...

I'd check your cam timing once more. Assuming the compression is good, having your t-belt off by a tooth or two makes it feel wildly different. There aren't many things that can make it feel that gutless assuming your static compression is okay, and your timing is right.The 3" exhaust will...

The recirculation hose is there for a reason. Sometimes your BOV will leak at idle and throw your A/F mixtures way off. Even worse, you will likely find eventually that your car will bog and fire out a big cloud of black smoke, or even stall when you shift.You're not likely to find any...

Keep in mind that your tire diameter/height grows by a nonzero amount by the time you hit the traps, especially if you're running slicks, and doubly so if you're actually hitting the traps at decent speeds.Some race slicks can get 20% (!) more diameter at the end of the track versus sitting...

It's a plain jane T25, non-ball bearing from an S13 SR20DET.It's marginally better than the T25 that came stock on the 2g DSM, and is completely worthless from a DSM standpoint.It has a standard T25 inlet flange and standard T25 outlet.

It's not likely for the viscous coupling or center diff to fail in a manner that would act similar to clutch slippage. In my experience, viscous couplings when they fail tend to lock solid, rather than start slipping. Center differentials will pretty much either work or they won't.If you...

Maglin: You're definitely onto something about the low boost on the big turbos.Particularly the V-trim -- if you look at its compressor map it leans so far to the right that it seems like it'd surge if you just looked at it funny. Damned 60's era Garrett wheel designs. ;)At least your...

I second (or third, or fourth, or whatever) the suggestion of the EVOIII-16g for your needs. The unmodified MHI turbos tend to be significantly more durable than their custom built Garrett counterparts too - very few people end up having one fail prematurely.As far as the EVO manifold and...

It's going to be just like every other five dollar eBay performance chip. It's going to be a little box with a resistor inside that you run in series (or in parallel, depending on the car) with your coolant temperature sensor to trick your engine into thinking it's colder than it really is...

Just out of curiosity, what's your source on the fact that the 3065 will net you more power than a 3052 at the 20psi range?If you happen to have a set of dyno plots from the same car, with doing nothing but swapping CHRAs, I'd love to see it.I happen to have both a 3052 and 3065, and...

Questions are good, particularly if they have some thought behind them. It's the best way to learn. :)You are indeed correct. The only reason we run larger compressor wheels (and with them come the bigger compressor housings) is so that we can run higher boost pressures (and with them...

What you're saying isn't exactly true. Rather than saying what I've said a million times before, I'll simply give you some links to help you understand.http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showpost.php?p=151191420&postcount=2 http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showpost.php?p=151192976&postcount=16...

Not to mention that the $799 rebuild really won't make your transmission any stronger - it focuses mostly on restoring the synchros, hubs, sleeves, and bearings to original (or a little bit better) condition. The $1299 rebuild with the 4-spider center diff is where you start getting into...

There are indeed situations where people make, say 340whp at 21psi on an EVO3 16g, and then the same power at 17psi on a 20g. However, virtually all of these aren't apples to apples comparisons on the turbine side of things. Virtually every EVO3 is installed straight up, right out of the box...

Theoretically if the BOV was cracking open under the pressure, that would make the turbo more likely to hit choke, rather than surge, wouldn't it? The extra airflow would move him further to the right of the surge line, and closer to the choke limit, although from his datalog and compressor map...

It is a little bigger and better than the stock IC, but it will never fit in the same spot that the stock sidemount sits. You'd have to sit it in front of the rad, and for all the time and effort installing it and making new intercooler piping, you'd be much better off to buy something that...

The boost pressure level that it's safe to run is going to depend on a lot of things - how many boost leaks you have, how hot it is where you live, what sort of gas you're going to be running in it, and whether your stock fuel pump is getting old and tired. I'd rewire the fuel pump first...

Oh, and as far as cheap fuel upgrades, one of the first things you'll want to do is rewire your stock fuel pump - that will give you a little more headroom.You can grab a fuel pressure regulator from a non-turbo for about 10% more fuel flow, and then hack the MAS to bring everything back...

If it's a TD05H-20g, you're going to be limited to the exact same boost levels as if it were a 14b or 16g.You're right, for the most part, 15psi *is* the same no matter which turbo is pushing it. Compressor efficiency isn't the be-all, end-all, and a good intercooler gives you a lot of leeway...

For the record, on a modern turbo with dynamic (piston-ring style) seals, it's very very difficult to "blow" the seals. Most smoking problems are related to high oil pressure inside the center section, either from abnormally high pressure at the inlet, or a restriction at the outlet.First...

It's hard to beat the EVOIII big 16g for price and durability. Yes, it has a bigger turbine wheel than the T25/28, which will result in a little higher boost threshold, but as they say, you don't get something for nothing. You can only go so far with trying to shoehorn a giant compressor wheel...

You're going to have to tell us a little more information.1) Did you replace your shortblock with a non-turbo one that didn't have oil squirters from the factory?2) Did you (or someone else) remove the oil squirters, but block off the hole where the squirters were?3) Did you...

I second the vote for DSMLink, and a very hearty 3rd (or 4th) recommendation for the FP3052. There really is nothing better, as far as quality, reliability, post-purchase support, and technology. Its response is mind blowing for a turbo that's capable of 500+whp, and it won't be struggling in...

On the intake side it's no big deal. On the outlet side of the turbo their lifespan is measured in days, if not hours.I've personally used one for years with no ill effects on the intake side.

On a ball bearing turbo such as the GT30R, you absolutely need to use the water lines. They are most certainly not optional.I personally had an assortment of old ones kicking around, both 1g and 2g, and the ones I ended up using when I was mocking it up were two of the 2g ones I think...

300whp is difficult to impossible to achieve with the 14b. It has been done, but only by a few people, and it took a monumental amount of effort to achieve. You're pretty much going to need to lock the the wastegate shut and let it run flat out above 4500rpm or so, and even then, it'll be a...

The 161 really isn't that much to worry about. The "service limit" is usually 25psi less than the other cylinders in most factory repair manuals, and I've seen people drive with one cylinder 50psi down on compression with little ill effect. The valve seals themselves wouldn't cause any loss of...

Hmm, odd, I re-read the thread and I don't see the post anymore where someone was referring to the surge ports as inlets. Oh well. My mistake, I guess. :)I would still wager that the ring would definitely allow more laminar flow into the turbine inlet, and increase compressor efficiency...

From what I've heard, the FP-series turbos and the GT307x counterparts are quite close to the surge limit right out of the box on a DSM.On a big diesel, you're likely not operating as close to the surge limit, so it's no big deal to put the "silencer" ring in there and delete the surge ports...

He could, theoretically, have had it bored out to accept a pressed-in cast iron sleeve.Why anyone would want to do that rather than spending the $100 or $200 max for a used bare 6-bolt block is beyond me, though.

If it's not water-cooled, it's not ball-bearing. Period.Assuming it does in fact have a dry center section with no water ports, you won't run into any issues with it on your talon, as you already have an oil cooler from the factory. Just make sure you change your oil every 2-3k miles, and...