Given equal weight distribution, the TT fronts and rears would work together well in concert. Being a FWD, though, I would venture to guess that the weight distribution is too much different, and that the car would be out of braking proportion.You don't want your rears to lock up before...

Didn't your car wind up for sale on cars.com in a highly unfinished state? The link is no longer valid, but it was here:http://www.cars.com/search/used/cc/standard/results/single/ld/detail.jhtml?paId=142071972&aff=recycler&src=&cid=And said the following: "1996 Mitsubishi Eclipse GST RS...

It also sounds to me like it might be the torque converter. Did you use a different converter when you put in the new transmission? Or did you use the old one? What the TransDude was saying is that the SnapOn code readers give a false TCM communication MIL code, even if the TCU is functioning...

Actually, the average of a series of track times are a good indicator. It wasn't like I was dumb enough to run one night, install the pulley, and run again. This is the culmanation of about a year before installing the pulley, and several months afterwards. The average gain that I saw was .15...

Not true. The belt moves at a slower speed with the underdrive pulley then it does with a stock pulley. The only time that belts skip off is if the pulley is not all of the way onto the crank. Just crank it down to 105 lb/ft, and the belts should stay right where you put them. There is a...

I recommend Mopar Combustion Chamber Cleaner. Get two cans and follow the directions here: http://www.vfaq.com/mods/MCCC.htmlAnd yes, it will contaminate your oil. Do an oil change after you finish this. -=B-=

Well, I have a couple of preferences for "headers."The first one, for naturally aspirated performance, is made by Dodge. Look under that heatsheild in your engine. Yup, that's it. That's what I would stick with, speaking strictly in dollar/HP value. A header is a lot of money for very little...

I think that 10HP is a fair estimation. Meant about .15 seconds for me in the quarter. That winds up being 10-15HP.As for the AC, it doesn't blow 30% slower, the compressor spins 30% slower. The fan maintains it's regular speed.If you were driving at 3300RPM with an underdrive pulley...

Doubling the power of a fairly (sorry) ineffecient large pushrod V8 with a rediculously mild cam is not as tough as it is to double the power output of a fairly well tuned small displacement motor with an advanced valvetrain and a high VE from the factory. It is easy enough to make a large...

Well, that wasn't my car, fortunately, but I have seen a bunch of bad failures from this clutch. One of the more perplexing ones was with a friend of mine from 2GNT. The clutch disc broke and kicked a spring out, taking out the bellhousing, destroying the transmission. So I don't use, trust...

The problem is that a 2.0 that is making decent power just isn't streetable, without valve timing control or lift control. A VTEC motor would not be able to idle very well, and certainly not at 800RPM, if it had a cam that matched the upper lobes. The volumetric effeciency of a naturally...

You didn't read the link, didja... -=B-=

Read this, and then you tell me: http://columbusdsm.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=421 -=B-=

Heh... I am swapping the spring loaded timing belt tensioner out and using a solid tensioner from Blackdog motorsports. That's the latest (won't call it the last) holdup. There are 2 bolts that hold the tensioner through the oil pump and into the block. The 2GNT bolts aren't long enough, as the...

Actually, if the stock horsepower is 140, 10.5 will net you 5.04 horsepower, for a grand total of 145.04. Each compression point is worth 4% more horsepower. With 12.5:1, 156HP can be expected, given the same volumetric effeciency. There is a reason that it is said that "boost is more...

Hi! I couldn't help but notice that you are looking to Motorfool for a turbo kit. Great choice. I am also selling his kits now, am reputable, and on this forum. E-mail me if I can be of service! Thanks! [email protected]

But water injection leaves the internals so nice and steam cleaned! :D -=B-=

Right on, can't wait for pics! Sorry, had to say it...

It will be REALLY close to the hood, but it will fit, from how it looks. I don't know how long the paint on the hood will last... but it will fit, at least with the HRC mani. I don't know about that POS Deltagate, though. That might not. -=B-=

<Screams>EVERYBODY STOP TALKING!!!!!<silence><in a normal tone>He is asking about swapping a 2.0 Chrysler motor to a 2.4L Chrysler motor. They have the same engine code, and are both 420a's. The 2GNT head bolts to it. Use the 2GNT head, as the Neon head flows the wrong way. You...

I beg to differ... I have a 2.4L version of the 420a in my car right now. I swapped. Torque is yummy. -=B-=

Reducing the parasitic drag on the crank will always increase the power that makes it to the wheels. I would guess 5-15 HP from that alone. I think it is worth it, myself. -=B-=

Sure... just remove the belt! To detension the belt, loosen the nut on the left hand side of the tensioner, which is right under the power steering, and has a small pulley that goes on the outside part of the belt. Once this nut is loosened (not removed), turn the bolt that is facing the front...

Well, I am the idiot. I thought that you were referring to a 2G... then I look at the kind of car that you drive. Now it makes so much more sense, since the NT is a 4G63 in the 1G. Don't mind me... I am just unobservant today... -=B-=

1Gs don't really wind up being much lighter (if at all) from the numbers that I have seen. And how do you plan on converting it to a GS-T, while leaving it nonturbo? -=B-=

that much might help your quarter mile time by .2 seconds. .3 would be pushing it, but it is possible. With the 2GNT running a 16.4 in the quarter mile, you would need to cut an aweful lot of car off to keep up with a GS-T, which runs high 14/low 15 in the quarter. Even the quickest factory...

I think that the gains that you felt while you were still naturally aspirated were entirely throttle response. I am not sure that there is a power differemce, though. The car would explode off of the line, or kick back faster when the car was brought to WOT, but that is because that throttle...

Well, I don't need to take them to a machine shop, as I have a 420a... :p I just like to know as much as I can about as many things as I can. -=B-=

They are going in my 2.4, as I no longer have a 2.0 in my car. Still a 420a, though. And no, they won't work in a 2.0... sorry. Real pity, since the rod/piston combo can be had for 40 bux each, so a 160 dollar buildup, plus 30 bux for Mopar bearings, and 30 bux for Mopar rings... -=B-=

A 4G93 is a SOHC 1.8L motor that was found from 1991-1994, and appeared in the Expo, Vista, and Summit wagon. -=B-=

What?????The 4G63 doesn't use full floating wrist pins? I didn't realize that... ah well. -=B-=

There will be a downpipe available from ERT (Exile Racing Technology) shortly. I agree that the stock/HRC downpipe sucks wind hardcore, and I bet that faster spoolup could be attained by using a better flowing downpipe. Just be wary of muffler shop specials that are usually terribly bent, either...

If you do not have a turbo on that 420a of yours, then it is a firm belief of mine that the throttle body is not the restriction. To the contrary, I think that an oversized throttle body would slow the airflow velocity through it to effect a power loss. However, there would be an increase in...

The 420a has powder forged rods with cracked caps. The pistons are fairly weak. Sorry, but the internals aren't forged, or even that strong. I do like the knife edge on the crank, though. The SRT-4 pistons that I am going to be popping in, though, those are things of beauty. -=B-=

http://forums.2gnt.com/dcboard.php?az=show_topic&forum=5&topic_id=46981We seem to have some differences of opinion about the oversized throttle bodies. I would stay away from them until we get some answers on the performance merits (or lack thereof) that they present. If you have a turbo...

I wasn't sure about the metalurgical content of the pistons and rods, or of the thickness of the ring landings, and if they would be boost friendly or not. Any way you could find that out for li'l old me? -=B-=

If it is a 1996, then it is DOHC. They didn't put the crap SOHC version of that motor in until 1997. So you don't have 161HP, you have 222HP. Congrats. It should move along nicely, especially when compared to your 1G NT. -=B-=

...for a well driven 2GNT with those mods. You are a driving freak, perhaps, but your car isn't necessarily a freak. It might be, but the best way to see would be to get it on a dyno. -=B-=

I think that he is looking to solve the issues with the kit, namely availability. Wyatt seems to have disapeared, so the Star complaints have been "I can't get anyone to sell me one." -=B-=

Headers seem to give more power across the power band, but very little is added to the peak power. They gain a net of 1HP or so, depending on design. What is helped, though, is mid-RPM torque, which isn't all that important in a drag race. Might come in handy during an autocross or spirited...

Really sounds like what happens when your motor mounts turn to powder. Replace any mounts that look worn. Might also be prudent to get a set of Energy Suspension polyurethane inserts to stiffen them up a bit. They will make a rubber mount last a lot longer. -=B-=

You can't just buy the rubber bushing from Mitsu or Chrysler. The prothane mount, on the other hand, is a polyurethane bushing that gets pressed into the metal mount. The only way to replace a dead mount and not have it rattle your fillings out is to get a whole mount, bushing, metal piece, and...

The best fix would be to remove the throttle body, remove the sensors, and clean it out with carb cleaner. Then, I would reassemble the throttle body and check the TPS with a multitester. If the resistance doesn't change smoothly, then the TPS is questionable at best. Other then that, check the...

Even if you are right (and while there is this much snow on the ground, who can race to tell the difference), all 2Gs clean up in the suspension department. Sorry, but a panhard linkage in the rear with a solid axle beam is not the latest and greatest in suspension setups. I prefer the 4 wheel...

Well, yours would be the third one... hehe... If you can make it up here for a weekend, my garage is usually free (most of the other people who use it don't have huge projects, so one of the 4 bays is usually available). Let me know if you are in the area and want it done. Like I said, though...

Have an automatic? -=B-=

Well, I popped a transmission after a weekend of regular MT Fluid. It was the BG stuff, now that I think about it. It was way too thick, and didn't serve the purposes that it was meant to in my transmission. This is also the consensus at 2GNT. Also the consensus from Dodge, Mitsubishi, GM (a few...

I would not use anything other then the recommended NVT-350 fluid from the dealership (Mopar or Mitsubishi) as it is a 5W30 with a friction modifier and the Syncromesh is somewhere around 75W90. It just isn't what the engineers had in mind when they made our syncronisers... -=B-=

Remove the reverse light sensor. It is on the top of the case in front of the driver side motor mount. You can get a funnel in there and fill it that way. Just drain it, and put in 2.1 qts. -=B-=

Yeah, I have been here for a while... starting some sh*t here and there... just having fun. -=B-=