I have for sale a used FWD Transmission for a 95-99 2G Mitsubishi Eclipse or Eagle Talon. It was rebuilt as a Shep Racing Stage 1 FWD, around 116,000 miles. I probably put about 35k-40k miles on it after the rebuild.While driving it to work one day, something "popped" in the Trans. Not sure...

I did the exact same thing a few years ago. Went back and forth on how To Dix it. But I agree with miguelmcv, best bet is to remove trans and get the right plate.

Stock long block, but now I'm tempted to turn up the psi this year...:ohdamn:Congrats to everyone with these nice numbers!

I can only speak to my experience with the STM exhaust systems. To date I've had three for my car (1st: FWD SS/Aluminum, 2nd: SS/Aluminum AWD destroyed in accident on the way to the DSM Shootout, 3rd: Current SS/Aluminum version).I've loved every variation that has been on my car. They were...

Blurple. Haha ROFL. Make sure to come say hi, so I can put a face with a name.

***DISCLAIMER: I knew I was going to get asked how much power it made, haha. The only reason I didn't post it was because I'm such a baby when the thing is on the dyno, and really pleaded for a safe tune. I have FULL faith in Emery as a tuner, just not in my 181k mile motor. The car didn't have...

Had mine on STM's dyno Sunday night, with some of the other shootout bound cars. I had a VERY conservative tune done at 21 psi. Let me say that I'm on a stock longblock, 181k miles, pump 93, and stock cams. I just repainted the engine bay, and cleaned up all the wiring, so I didn't really want...

Yes, I DJ the event every year. Just didn't get a chance to get any of the cars there this year. :idontknow:

Seems with the v2 they are moving this closer to the FP Green. I will be trying this out, since I've bought it and installed it on the engine (now I just need the engine back in the car, lol).Also, there was someone in the past pages looking for Dyno results of this turbo on stock...

Like I said, that's what I'm starting to realize. Especially with this new 8cm housing. I was on a "conservative" tune with 20psi on the e316g. I guess I'm not too sure where my psi level will end up after tuning. And I'm also trying to leave myself some room in the turbo, with upgrades like...

After receiving my v2 68hta in October and waiting to get the car back together, I just now find this thread. And I went from excited to......well not. I was not aware that the 8cm housing created that much difference in the spool up time/rpm. Especially since my goal was an aggressive street...

I already posted about 90 raw photos on facebook. Hopefully soon I can get some loaded up here.

Swap complete! I want to thank everyone that contributed to this thread before me. Alot of good information here.Some photos and some of the issues I ran into, coming in the next few days...

I think I figured out why this doesn't make sense to me. If I understand this now I need the AWD harness clip that is still attached to the chassis, and splice in the wires from the FWD harness clip on the chassis. Then I can plug this into the AWD fuel pump clip.I guess I don't have this...

I'm trying to figure this out. Both of these diagrams look different, and from what I've read people are having issues with the first diagram. However, I am NOT running a fuel pump rewire kit like in the second diagram. So therefore I am not understanding how I should be wiring this together...

Thanks for the input. It was really bothering me that there was no real support for the front subframe bolts. It seems as though those people that just welded on a nut to the FWD bolts haven't had any issues. So maybe I shouldn't be worried.Now I'm onto the filler neck issue. I sourced a...

Can someone explain why noone has used the AWD subframe bolts for the front of the AWD subframe? I'm not understanding why we should reuse the FWD bolts for that. Also, the rear bolts have that metal tube/sleeve to actually support those bolts, but we just weld the front bolts to the...

Well I got back underneath the car last night. Finally got the transmission in the car and decided to give the driver side shaft another look. I then could see that the carrier mount lines up with just one hole on the ac bracket, and the other one on the block. I was originally looking to see...

Well holding it up to the bracket on the car, it doesn't look like it mates up at all. The space between the bracket holes don't line up with the intermediate shaft holes.And I'm still not sure if the FWD ac bracket will work at all, or if I need to replace it with any year AWD ac bracket...

Hi all. I'm in the middle of this swap right now. My new awd transmission is mounted up, and the front of the car is basically all put together except for two things.1) I somehow got ahold of a 22 splined tcase instead of a 23. So I'm in the process of getting another one.2) The front...

A little history here. About four years ago, I changed the suspension on the GST. I installed an Eibach Prokit/Tokico Illuminas setup.After the suspension started to settle, I had some issues with camber/toe. This was about two years ago.The rear toe was so bad, that the tires were scuffed...

I don't believe so. If the oil temps and cracking issues are not really present, then I suppose I might go to some sort of wrap/blanket. Thanks.That is unless anyone else can think of other issues I'm not thinking of?

Are you able to monitor your oil temps as well? I was thinking another issue would be an increase in oil temps due to the heat transferring to the oil being fed to the turbo's center housing.Thermo-Tec automotive heat control productsThis shows the manifold blanket and turbo cover

I tried searching to see if anyone else was thinking of this, but couldn't find a thread.I've looked at a few of these "turbo insulators" or turbo covers as they are called. It is some kind of thermal material used to wrap the turbo hotside in order to stop the heat from radiating to other...

Most kits run the feed line from the OFH. I just found a thread on why these kits ran it from there.....of course I couldn't tell you why because I forgot already. hahaKeep your $100 from having a shop port it for you. Go to home depot or something, get a carbide burr, port the hot side...

I want a quiet system, maybe a bit louder but no where close to a regular aftermarket brand name.Can you clarify what you did to the exhaust though? It says you put a Borla muffler on but it looks like the regular Thermal R&D muffler. Maybe I'm just confused as to what the "Bpipe" is...

Evo III 16g. All day long.Why settle with a small 16g? The difference in lag should not even come into it. Plus you'll eventually want more boost. Its addictive and the E316g has some room to grow.

18"s with Eibach Prokit/Tokico Illuminas. I think the combo is perfect and wouldn't go any bigger. I believe its 245/40/18 for the rubber

Thanks for posting that stuff up mitsumikey.This is really something I've started to look into. Although I can't seem to find an SSAC system for us FWD guys...The SS system looks to be nice and I would take that finish over say an Apex'i N1 system that has a flat finish on it.Mitsu, did...

I have heard the N1s in person though. They are relatively quiet when compared to others, but still not exactly what I'm looking for. I was just curious what it would sound like if I put a "effective" resonator on these brand names

Has anyone added a resonator to a brand cat-back? I was looking for a 3" cat-back or turbo back that maintains a "quiet" profile. I've read some threads on here where the person has attached a vibrant performance muffler or other low profile mufflers. I didn't know if anyone has added a...

So pretty much not worth it then? If the flow is too small to make a difference, that's one thing. But why would a different OFH be different? Would that actually flow more to the air to oil cooler itself?

That sounds right to me, and that may be the reason why it wouldn't work. I'm simply suggesting if the -4AN fitting would be sufficient if the appropriate adapters were put into place.I guess I'm looking for an advantage in this setup. Obviously I don't want to create more work/money needed...

I guess I really should have clarified my original post. The pressure is coming from the source which originally should feed the turbo directly. Therefore instead of going straight to the turbo, the oil runs through an external oil cooler first.I wasn't implying that you simply just tap...

I apologize. Yes I meant switching to the evo3 OFH. The 90 OFH won't fit the 7 bolt.But without switching to the E3 OFH, why wouldn't this be the best solution?

I'm running a 7-bolt, but instead of switching to the 90 oil filter housing why wouldn't this be ideal? Aren't you able to maintain the stock water cooled setup and also adding an air cooler setup? What am I missing here?

So to be clear...Ceddy was "moddifying" the 99 ECU table or just found the stock tables on the ECU?I'm just trying to figure out if the issue is where they are located on the ECU or if in fact they will re-write back.

My 99 is my DD, but I have been reading up on these posts and interested in the progress. I don't know if I feel comfortable being the "guinea pig", but I would be willing to help out.Ceddy, shoot me a PM if I can be of any help.

I've noticed that unlike the one above, the ball bearing actually seals off the end of the nipple thread instead of going past the threading:As for the bleeder hole, I'm not going to be boosting past 15psi...... :confused:

Thanks for the quick replies. I did buy one but it was a while ago and I just wanted to make sure it was correct. The measurements are not the same, but the fundamentals seem to be the same, maybe the adjustment is just a little more or less sensitive? Anyways this is what I have...

I can't seem to find a current link to a writeup for this. Anyone help me out. I remember it as the "home depot" boost controller. Thnx

Honestly, I own a 99 and would be willing to help out in any way possible to make the ECU flashable. I know there have been discussion on openecu and dsmtalk about it. They are getting closer. My 99 is my DD but if all that's needed is to send a copy of the stock image I would be more than...

+1 for that butterfly support like the miatas have underneath. That's a great idea, and yet another way to stiffen up the chassis. I'm sure it would be of great use to autox competitors as well.+1 for engine dampeners +1 for JNZ aero parts..........where are those pics!!!!! Even the Evo...

I am interested as well. I just completed my 16g swap and have an SAFC installed, but not tuned and am inexperienced. It would be interesting to see what this program entails.

D2 Racing USA - WelcomeI've heard very good things whenever I talk to someone that runs this setup.

These are a few options off the top of my head. Theses are just more of the popular ones. I myself run Tokico Illuminas with an Eibach Prokit.Coilovers (but not limited to: Tein Eibach Ground Control Ksport D2"Combos" These can be "mix-n-matched". Some adjustable, some not:Shocks...

Do you want to run a coilover setup? Spring/Shock combo?

I'll just leave the exit of the catch can open in the engine bay.Now do I need to cap off the holes on the BCS, or can I leave the nipples that come off it open if I bypass the BCS?

Awesome. You guys always come through for me. Ill take the BCS out of the vacuum loop, but keep it "plugged in".I know that I have the vacuum line off the valve cover going to a catchcan. I believe this is the other line that peepers says goes to the charcoal canister. Ill have to look into...

Awesome. You guys always come through for me. Ill take the BCS out of the vacuum loop, but keep it "plugged in".I know that I have the vacuum line off the valve cover going to a catchcan. I believe this is the other line that peepers says goes to the charcoal canister. Ill have to look into...