Clean the plugs and replace the wires if you haven't yet. If you recently replaced the O2 then just leave it alone. You have an A/F, or EGT guage in your car?
Make yourself an MBC and crank the boost up a bit, the factory t-25 actuator will open at about 12psi, so that's normal... If you turn it up and get more boost then you're ok, if you turn it up and it just spikes then drops off put your t-25 back on and see what happens, you might have a bad turbo.
Good luck with reading it... You checked it when it was warm right? Always check it warm and with the engine running with the car in neutral. When you pull the dipstick you'll have to hold it at an angle in the light to read it properly. ;)
Tranny parts are pretty strong, and really don't need any break-in. I would recommend taking it easy on it for about 200-300 miles and using synthetic gear oil though. :D
Only way to completely eliminate the tick is to replace the lifters with the new upgraded ones. I put 1/4 quart of Lucas oil stabilizer in and the thing only goes tick tick when I start it and thats the end of it. :D
If your car has more than 50K on it your O2 sensor is probably bad and I'd recommend replacing it, that will fix your O2 readings problem. Have you replaced your thermostat? If so what temp?
I polished mine slightly with a fine wire brush and meguiars metal polish. I got bored with it and sanded it and painted it with high temp (ceramic is best) exhaust paint. It looks sweet! Don't use an enamel. (Even if it says it's high temp!) If you want a really nice finish have it powder...
Have you replaced the oil-coolant lines? One of them might be clogged, or have an obstruction in it. Do you have your settings above or below 0% at 1K-2K on your AFC?
Sounds like you've got an intake leak. Make yourself an intake leak tester and test it for leaks. You can get instructions on making one on Vfaq.com under Intake.
Sounds like you just have some oil in the wrong places. Just drive it around a bit and hope for the best. Shaft play is not a good thing, how much is a sizeable amount?
Clean the motor! Spray down all the greasy nasty stuff (but not the electrical like spark wires and ignition pack) with Gunk foaming engine degreaser, let it soak for about 1-2 min and hose it off, then just watch for where the leak is coming from.
Run the line from your BOV line to your MBC and the line out of your MBC to your Wastegate. Pull all that factory crap out when you're doing that. Don't forget to cap off the nipple on the compressor side of your turbo.
Make a boost leak tester, you can get instructions for it on Vfaq.com. The BISS is on the TB on the front of it in a hole about the size of your pinky.
I've seen em like that with worn out rings, and with bad valve seals, I even saw some that where a LOT worse than that when my friend blew a hole through a piston. It is most common to see a plug like that when the valve seals go. Take off the intake-exhaust manifold and check for oil in the...
Put any honeycombs you took out back in and put the screw back to where it was. Either have someone who knows WTF their doing fix your car, or put all the factory crap back on-sell it and get another Dodge.J/K But I would do what I said in the first sentence. ;)
Sounds like the rings are worn or the valve seals are bad. You're getting oil in the cylinders which is probably the cause of the high compression readings. Look kinda like this?
:D
You're talking about using JB weld to seal between the TB elbow and the TB? Don't do that, coat it lightly with some blue or black RTV, seat it lightly with the bolts hand tight. (Don't squeeze out the RTV) Let it sit for about 6-8 hours and tighten it. Sounds like you've got a boost leak...
I hope you're planning on using a wet kit. (Don't want any accidents) If you want to build your motor get some Ross 8.5:1 forged pistons, and some Eagle or Pauter rods. That's just my preference on parts. There are quite a few to choose from.
They'd look good. I haven't seen anyone do that, but you just need to visualize them like that. If you can't, take a pic of your car and have someone in the Photoshop forum change the wheel color for you. :D
Rewire your Fuel pump. Run some Redline Fuel System cleaner through there, and put some 93-101 octane fuel in there to clean things up. Your stock fpr is not adjustable at all.
That doesn't have anything to do with the bov setting. The pressure form boost is causing your bov line to come off. Use a zip tie pulled very tight, or a small crimp or worm gear clamp to keep it on. :thumb:
For the MBC to be hooked up correctly you just take the hose that ran from your old WG actuator and hook it up to your HKS, it sounds like you need to adjust the tension on your WG so it'll open at the lower boost pressure. :D
If you don't want to change your front bumper you could take your car into a body shop with the new lights installed and have them custom fit the bumper to match.
http://www.raktron.com/fuel/rewire1.htmlThis is in VFAQ under Fuel instead of electrical under 2G FP rewire. It's the same one I followed to do my car. :thumb: