so i removed my Evo VI wing and i'm about to apply the JDM spoiler. i drilled 6 holes in my trunk for the old spoiler, but the new one doesn't even get close to the holes, so i have to patch them up. i used bondo, but my trunk was wet inside this morning (it rained last night) so that's not...

lol it does sound like a gremlin......the sound isn't there when i push the clutch pedal IN, but it comes back when i'm releasing the clutch and after the clutch is completely engaged. sound is loud both on decel and accel, but it's there only about 50% of the time when i'm cruising...

http://socallifestyle.com/engineswap/mysterynoise.mp3If you listen carefully in the first couple seconds, you can hear a more faint version of the sound at idle, but it becomes much more apparent and obvious on the decel when the motor is revved. Aprox area where sound could be coming from...

after you press on the brake, and the caliper has released it's "grasp", what pulls the pads off the rotor? i know they only move thousandths of an inch, but even if the pads were barely touching the rotor i'd imagine that's a considerable amount of friction whilst driving, and thus more heat.

they have to be less than $10 a piece, since that's all i can really find. what happened to the $2 couplers you used to be able to get at pep boys? they barely even have worm clamps anymore...edit: found it, www.intakehoses.com

it can be pink for all i care, already exhausted home depot and lowes.i need 3" coupler 3" to 2.75" transition 4 to 3" transition

Greetings,I'm building some custom CAIs and I'm in desperate need of some silicone couplers. All I can find are ones for turbo applications, such as 2-ply, 3-ply and up. The intake will never see any boost, vacuum only.I bought a crappy random VW intake for my roommates jetta on ebay as...

supposedly if you drop an engine that is newer than the car into the car, and you have all the smog equipment in place, you can be devoid of smog laws permanently? i can't confirm this for sure...do any dsmers in california have any information on how to keep pursuing my hobby? i need help here...

i was in the process of part collecting and building my 4g64, and when i got my mitsu OEM main bearings i was so excited i took a set right out of the box and looked at them for 5 minutes......all the while getting my finger oils all over them. thanks to california highway patrol, i am no...

I'm getting pretty fed up with cops and chp pulling me over every 5 minutes, and my last situation forced me to remove the car from the roadway until I return it back to stock and have the **** state referee approve me.So i've been hearing about this "show car" registration. Supposedly...

i highly doubt i "insulted" everyone. you mean to tell me people read my comment and spent more than 5 seconds thinking about it....and then realized they were "insulted"? oh please....here's a tissue...at wot, my tps sensor is reading 5v. voltmeter and afc2 sensor check approved

with all the pretentious and arrogant people on this board....no one wants to offer ANY advice? still have this problem......

i'm glad people read what i say before they comment. i even got a negative feedback rating for my previous post.....i never said negative camber is a bad thing. i know that A LITTLE bit of negative camber in the rear is good, for the same reason you outlined.

love my ebay intake, got it for $45 shipped. looks great and sounds great.

you're going to want to put a camber kit on the front wheels too and try to get them close to zeroed out. i rode around on shitty camber for a while, then i got front/rear camber kits it handled 10x better than it ever did before. threw a rear sway bar into the mix and it was all over.too much...

i'm assuming 5v since the afc says it's 100% when i gun it. if it was anything different it wouldn't display 100%, right? due to the spooling characteristics of my turbo, i have the throttle points set at 15%/40%

per manual specifications for my car, 38psi at idle, 48psi with ONLY fuel pump cycling (no vacuum)

Hello everyone. I have a 2.4L sohc turbocharged. 450cc injectors, walbro 190 (rewired) aeromotive fpr, afc2 and wideband.i had my hi-throttle settings on my afc2 set to -10% across the board. at wot, my a/f would be about 14-15 OMG OMG OMGso i gradually kept turning it up on the afc2. now...

ok, i think i'm gonna play it safe and just use 1 hg and drive like a grandma till things change again. i'll look into the shims but unless i hear nothing but incredible amazing things i don't think i'll be using them.....thanks again

i sold my old auto tranny on ebay, weighed about 140lbs. manual one weighed 100 give or take :cool:

it should fit, i know a few people running GST trannies on their spyder and galants (exact same motor as spyder)

Hello all....I recently blew the head gasket on my 4g64 2.4L sohc. I'm running a custom turbo setup on the stock motor right now, and it's not gonna last too much longer, but I have a stroker motor in the works to replace the poor stocker.bottom line, this is my only car and i need it...

ARP's site specifically talks about the strength and "flex" in their studs. they say that their studs, although technically stronger than your standard factory head bolts, can stretch more so than the factory bolts. this allows for all the aluminum to expand more "comfortably". i think that's...

i would get an act 2100 clutch kit. if you're not into racing it'll last you forever if you drive it smooth like a daily driver. and if you need to, you can beat down on it [respectfully].

http://roadraceengineering.com/eclsuspension.htmscroll down to the camber correction kits. i actually bought the $40 rear kit because theres not a single store in town that carries bolts of the required hardness. it supposedly corrects the camber for an eibach pro-kit drop, so you could add...

i just helped my friend put teins basic damper on his 2g. handled like a dream after that, and was still comfortable while cruising. super street is probably betteri used to have teins on my kyb agxs and it was great through turns, sure helped for burnouts too

i finished turboing my 4g64 about a month ago, and for about 2 minutes i had the bov venting to the atmosphere before i saw all the problems it was causing. now it dumps back into the intake pipe like everyone elses.however, if i'm driving with the car in gear, and then put it into neutral...

so with the two links i posted, the style of the fittings wouldn't happen to be this, would it?that's my aeroquip fitting that i used on my ss teflon line.

but arn't they compression fittings where the fitting meets the hose? otherwise, how would it form a seal with the hose? all my fittings leaked where the compression fitting bit down onto the hose.

i've had horrible luck with compression fittings on stainless steel lines, and before i continue to screw myself over i'd like to see what i'm doing wrong. i built the SS teflon clutch line, and the aeroquip fittings i got constantly leaked. i got earl fittings after that, they leaked to. they...

no, god damnit. i'm not talking about my temps, i'm talking about how they are gradually rising as time goes on. i've already determined where i'm gonna mount it, cause it's already mounted, i'm just looking for info as to why they are slowly going up.weather i mount it at my muffler or in...

i finished turbocharging my 4g64 galant about 3 weeks ago, and i wanted to get some opinions on my gradually rising EGTs.When i first drove the car after the turbo, my egts would stay about 700F at idle, 800F when cruising, and about 1000F under wot or heavy boost. about a week or so after...

the evolution....i mean mitsubishi meet was awesome guys, see everyone next year! :dsm:btw, 6 of the prizes were won by us galant owners :p :p :p if you remember us cheering all alone everytime our ticket was called

ok, i cut the blue wire. the reading has gotten a lot better. almost perfect. instead of the red LEDs completely disappearing, only one or two at most disappear, instead of all 3 of them. #### the blue-wire mod. thanks guys.

put my afcII in last night, everything was good except my a/f ratio is a little screwy now.normally when i turn my car on, the a/f ratio is around .5v and after 3-4 minutes the gauge starts bouncing around as normal the numbers all over the place, as normal. ever since i put the afc in last...

oh c'mon, only 8 views. i really need an answer on this, someone's got to know

i have a 13g off a 6th generation VR4 galant. i'm going to be putting it into my 4g64 sohc motor, but i'm having a hell of a time finding fittings to go into the oil feed and water feed/return ports. i'm going to get AN-barb or flare-barb fittings, but i've been to two plumbing/hose adapter...

when i say drop into my 4g64, i mean, will they go in without me having to take my block to a machine shop and spend oodles of money. i've searched for a while and havn't found a satisfactory or definite answer. thanks :dsm:4g64 stroke/bore: 100mm/86.5mm GT cruiser turbo stroke/bore...

oh ok, that makes sense. so i slap the EGT there, then the wideband sensor 15" downstream, can i remove my primary o2 sensor and splice it into the wideband? because when i get the GST downpipe it doesn't have a bung for my pre-cat primary o2

i'm gonna feel like a douche for asking this, but i dont have an eclipse: what the hell is a #1 runner? :(

i'm turboing my 4g64 fairly soon, and i'm getting the tubular o2 housing with the GST downpipe, and i wanted to know where's the best place to mount an EGT sensor and a wideband o2 sensor?

thats wierd, maybe the syncros? my 1987 Ford Bronco II had the same issue, you could pull it out of gear so easy, but on my car you can't get it to go out of gear no matter what. i havn't tried hard, but hard enough to know its solid

the shifter assembly for any 2g (turbo or non-turbo) will work fine. mastercylinder and slave are the same on all 2gs. which other parts are you having troubles with?

that clutch problem sounds like your master cylinder needs adjustment at the push rod that connects to the clutch pedal.

i used to bust CV boots after about 5K miles when i had my auto. after the swap to the 5spd i havn't busted one yet and it's been about 10K miles.

might be the notchy shifter. i phsyically can't shift very fast because there's resistance going into the next gear that I have to break through. unless i violently shift into the next gear, it's a good half second before i'm fully engaged in the next gear. needless to say for racing i feel like...

not a dumb question at all, there was an interesting thread not too long ago proposing the same ideahttp://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=160421also, search for propane in the nitrous forum specifically, it returned a few other semi-informational threads

i think you'll be kicking yourself when a stupid pebble gets lodged in there and opens up pandora's box

remember to use the Loctitehttp://www.roadraceengineering.com/instructions/bm-shortshifterinstructions.htm

costs $4-$5 a pound here in SoCal