ok, 2nd question. When I pulled the compressor housing off, I noticed this:previous owner clocked the turbo and instead of just lightly grinding down the back plate for the alignment pin, looks like a whole chunk was ripped off. is it still safe to reuse this? What worries me is that the...

I have a blown big 16g sitting here I was going to rebuild, and I see the turbine blades are all chewed up. Can I use the turbine wheel/shaft out of a 14b to rebuild the 16g? The turbo will be sent out to be balanced after the rebuild.

Looking for a 14b turbo in el paso asap. my car is down until i rebuild or replace mine. may even be intrested in 16g. get back to me here or text 9I5-433-43O5. Thanks!

Is it an actual greddy or an ebay greddy? you could look at one of these if you need a new diaphragm: SPECIAL! - NGR Type-S Diaphragms

I've always liked the RM lip but i think it's NLA

I would say its something to get you over the hump. When your hitting the limits of your fuel setup or turbo, and you want to push it a little further w/o totally overhauling your setup, you could look into meth injection. An added bonus is that water/alky injection helps keep your internals...

43.5 would be w/o vacuum applied. try pulling the vacuum line and plugging it and take a reading of the pressure at idle.

ThisWhat's it currently set to?

No complaints. Ordered an ignition switch for my conquest (MB398854) and got it in about a week if I remember correctly. i have heard cases where they list something as available and then after the order is placed they tell you its no longer available, but doesnt happen that often. And...

I've used the first one before. Have not tried the 2nd one.

looks pretty cool!

I've always referred to mine as 0g. lol

A running SHP, depending on what other issues it might have, maybe 1500? Aside from the body damage and maybe some new tires it looks pretty good. Also in 88 mitsu made some changes to the ECU (removed fuel cut), wastegate (raised boost), and injectors (2 stage injection instead of alternating...

BTW not trying to dissuade you. I currently have an 89 SHP that I drive daily. Just throwing in my experience w/ the car to help you out. you could poke around on starquestclub.net to get a better idea of what your getting into.My car...

SHP = special handling package. SHP had 9in rear rims and 8in fronts that the starquest guys would pay a mint for ($500+). Non SHP are 8in rear 7in front which are more common and not as much in demand. also the shocks/struts were adjustable and if in good condition (not blown) can pull some...

Is it an SHP model? If not running you could sell it as a roller for maybe 500-1000. If its an SHP you can maybe part it out for about 1000 maybe more. How much are they asking for it?

I think it would just come down to whatever he decides to do in the end that matters. If he says "I like the way BOV X sounds, I wonder if its any good...Hmmm...reviews suck...pass" or "BOV Y sounds cool, let me check it out, reviews are good, I win!" then theres nothing wrong with that IMO...

Just because you build off ebay doesnt mean you always buy any cheap part available. There are plenty of legit vendors that also sell their wares on ebay, as well as the chance to buy 2nd hand top quality parts at below retail (much like the classifieds here). There's nothing wrong w/ saving...

Well I dunno i kinda picked my BOV by sound. I narrowed it down to the 3 types i liked the best (HKS, Greddy, Blitz) then from there picked the one I thought sounded the best (HKS). The 1st gen is cool, cheap, and for the most part perfectly functional but I see nothing wrong w/ adding a...

I would think zip ties would be hard to remove if you needed to. And I've seen them dry out and crack. Although I also hate spring clips just because I always manage to scrape fingers on them. IF I had to choose I would say spring clips, or really small hose clamps.

Um...i'm still tripping on the being killed part.But really, i think almost all my builds have been ebay builds. or at least 70% ebay. You can find some good ish on there.

For clutch I would say low RPMs shifting for the first 100 mi or so. After that drive normally (as in normal people normal, not our normal) w/ normal (not hard) shifting for a week or so. I have heard of some guys putting the car up on jack stands and giving it a few heat cycles. Assuming FWD...

good info on the diaphragm. I have a greddy knock off sitting in my garage I was too afraid to install. might get this now and have a decent BOV for under $70.

Turbo XS RFL? There should be a sound sample on that page I linked. Check those out and see if it sounds the same or close.

A buddy of mine did his rims on his STI in this stuff. Actually looks pretty good except that its peeling on 1 rim. Not a bad $15 mod.

Kind of hard to figure out based off of "pheeww". Have you tried asking your buddy what bov it is?Try this link and see if you find it there: GT4 Blow Off Valves

It connects through a serial cable right? I don't think vista would be a problem but maybe if you are using a serial to USB adapter? I've seen cases where some off brand adapters dont work w/ this kind of stuff (happened to me w/ my emanage). Check your drivers when you connect the cable maybe?

Don't forget to use distilled water on the final fill up. I guess hose water would be fine for the flush since you'll only be running it for 15 minutes anyway.

1st pic

Don't know if I ever actually made an intro thread. I joined the forum almost 10 years ago, but to be fair I've never actually owned a DSM. Usually just the cousins. I get on here mostly for tech advice and browse the classifieds. I currently own an 89 Conquest but will be selling that soon...

The turbo came w/ a Conquest motor i bought (2.6L G54B), but I'm now selling the car. I was considering holding on to it for a future project or selling it with the car.

Can someone help me identify exactly what kind of turbo this is?This is what I've been able to find out so far:Compressor housing is stamped w/ the following: Garrett A/R .50 M33 BSK1 and where the ID tag should go it's stamped MJM 115pulled the housing and measured the wheel. Measures...

Yes held the plug casing against the block. Just got done checking the fuel system. Pressure on the line is there, no pulse on the injectors. It was suggested that it may be the CAS that went out which I'm starting to lean towards. Looks like I'm looking at a new distributor.I honestly...

I just picked up a 90 eclipse 1.8 as a beater. When i picked it up it was running fine. Drove it home, drove it to work a few times. Today on my way home it just cut out and died. Had it towed home and was checking it out. I checked for spark by pulling a plug and connecting it to one of the...

My friend has a 95 talon and the engine was recently swapped but we're trying to figure out what year car the engine came out of. Serial # SX8334THnx

so my friend was rebuilding her engine in her talon, and ordered pistons w/o checkin the engine first. She ordered 85mm Ross pistons, but later found the block had been bored to 85.5 (she's the 2nd owner). The mechanic is tellin her the pistons will be fine if u gap the rings right...and allow...

ok, so my friend has a 95 talon, w/ a 91 block in it. I found a good deal on a maft however we didnt notice till after we bought it that it was for a 1g. My question:i've heard that the only real difference in the MAFT (v2.01) is the plug. In that case, would it be possible to just splice...

My friend has a 95 talon and the engine was recently swapped but we're trying to figure out what year car the engine came out of. Serial # SX8334THnx

any other opinions?

well heres the deal, my friend threw a rod on her current engine. Ross pistons, shot peined rods, balanced when rebuilt. she wanted to buy an eagle rods/ross pistons combo ($750) and have the engine rebuilt. 1 rod and piston = totally fuxored. however, we did think about a completley new...