I have a few parts left over from my GSX project. I've posted them on KSL. Here is the link. Just odds and ends. If you're interested in something let me know and we'll work out a deal.Classifieds for Utah, Idaho, and Wyoming | ksl.comHere is the list:Turbo Inlet Pipe (Custom) Stock...

VaporLock? I just remembered a freind having a problem with his coolant flow and it was due to vaporlock. I'm going to change the oil and pull the filter and see if that does anything; as soon as we have a decent day of weather that is.

Ok, I fixed the picture. Is it plumbed right?

Yes, that is correct. Is there another way of checking to see if the pump is pumping oil other than pulling the line to the turbo? I may need to just break down and replace the oil pump, then go from there to be safe. Help please...The motor only has 400 miles on it.

It only ran for a little bit, until I realized that the oil pressure gauge was not going to read. It was afterward that I tested the line.

I am running the 90 oil filter housing and am starting to wonder if I have the oil line to my turbo piped into the right spot. I was getting between 40 and 50psi when I pulled it down for a turbo swap. Now, I get nothing. Nothing registers on the stock gauge or my mechanical Autometer. The...

My initial thought is that it was a plug that went down to the vacuum bracket under the intake manifold. But I don't know. Does anyone have any idea? I got rid of my vacuum bracket. This is a one wire lead comming out near the coil pack. Any ideas?:confused:

It might be decent, but at that price I don't want to be the guinnea pig.LOL He offers a warranty but if you decide it's a peice of crap and want to return it, there is a 25% restocking fee.ROFL

OK, I was able to trim down my connector enough to clear the mount so I think that it will be OK. I looked at clocking the housing and figured I would have to machine a peice to make it work because like you said, it hits the mount and won't work. My only issue now is getting the damn oil return...

Ok, so the oil return line is in line now. But the compressor housing sits soooo close to the front motor mount. Aside from having an elbow welded on, the only way I can see to do it is to clock the housing. My problem with that is I am running an internal wastegate and would have to fabricate a...

Yes, your tires are supposed to spin in the opposite direction. It looks like you have a bad axle bearing. With the tire leaning that far, it may have messed up the housing as well. The bearing is cheap but you need a press to put it in.

The height of your filter has absolutely nothing to do with it. The oil you are getting is normal. I am assuming you replaced the stock line to your intake with a small filter. To do this properly you need to add an oil catch can. Search the forums, there are tons of articles about this that...

I had a rear axle break inside the diff housing and it gave me these same symptoms. Good luck with it.

The casting on the right side of the manifold was the issue with mine. I had to grind down the manifold for it to slide past the mount. It didn't take more than .080" though. Good buy!:thumb:

No go on the ball bearings man. You can however buy a new center section that is ball bearing for around 630.00. If you have never taken a turbo apart before, I suggest taking it somewhere. You are going to want it balanced afterward anyway. Check with Forced Performance on a rebuild. They may...

OK, I finally got everything completely ready to bolt in. I had to grind down my brand new Turbochargers exhaust manifold to get the far right side to slide past the motor mount and onto the stud. Now, my oil return line is coming out directly over the bottom motor mount. I am going to have to...

Yes a shop can do the test. BUT, if you buy the gauge it will cost nearly the same if not cheaper and then you will have it for future use. The only other thing to check, is to to see what has been tampered with. Personally, I would only buy a stock car. Which is very hard to find.

There is a hose running from the valve cover to your intake pipe. This is probably where the oil is coming from. Are you noticing a loss in oil; consumption of some kind that has you looking for the leak? If the oil were coming from the turbo, I think you would have coolant there as well.

I would rewire your fuel pump. It is very cheap and easy to do. But other than that, yes, 15PSI will be fine. NO MORE THOUGH.LOL But definitly rewire the pump. Look into at least a cat back exhaust of 2 1/2". If you don't plan to do much more modding 2 1/2" will be fine, and not too expensive...

The turbo just arrived today!!:D This thing looks sweet. One question though, did everyones have a little shaft play in it? When I bought my old B16G, there was absolutely no shaft play at all. This one has a small amount. Maybe as the oil pressure hits it will tighten up. And where is the...

According to the chart which is on VFAQ under drivetrain, they are different.

Yes, it will work just fine. All you do is set the MAFT to 450's and zero everything else out. Then just tune the WOT with the Link. Do a search, there are a lot of threads on this exact same thing.:D

Call the dealer with that VIN and they can tell you.:thumb:

More like $279, and WELL worth it.;)

Wideband A/F Gauge. Like this.:D

I remember taking my ARP's to 90 ft/lb's. I think playitlouddsm is right. Do a search and I'm sure you'll find what others have torqued to.

Wideband!!:D

No you don't. You'll be just fine. Follow this.:D

"zeroed" out.?Not Completely True. There is a list of injectors and how the dials should be set. One of the knobs needs to be set to "2" for the 450's. I can't remember which, but the list will show you how to set it up.

Get the 3G lifters, the 16G will work but will need the J-Pipe. SBR has it on their site as well or just buy directly from Dejon. With the Evo3, I would go with 750's. I don't see a logger or fuel management on that list. Add DSMLink if you can manage. It is by far the best. If your on a budget...

Too big, too fast? What's that?ROFL I am not too sure on how big of injector the MAFT can handle on it's own. But with DSMLink you can go huge, and I would. Do a search on the MAFT and Injectors and see what the biggest people have had luck with. The SAFC is commonly known to be useless after...

I see that you have 550's. With those injectors and the translator to add fuel with a datalogger start to raise the pressure. You should be fine at 18PSI. There is the possibility that you will be able to run more, but without a datalogger I would not suggest it. Anymore, may be more than the...

255:190 no difference, rewire it. I agree, buy the 255 if you already have the FPR. Like stated above, you will not get the full potential out of the pump without rewiring it. It is not that difficult or expensive. Just do it. Walbro pump tend to whine alot and rewiring it quiets that down as...

I have always liked the FIC injectors. You need to evaluate what your future goals are and go from there. If you plan on DSMLink then the sky is the limit. Go with 750's or bigger. If it were me, I would buy 1000's and be done with it. If you never plan on going any bigger than the 16G then just...

What adapter are you using?

I have always used RedLine. There is also BG Synch or Shep suggests Pennzoil Synchromesh. You can't go wrong with a suggestion from Shep!LOL

You can just replace the housing. That part is not too terribly difficult to get off. Putting it back on might be another thing.LOL I might even have one lying around. I'll get back with you if I do.:D

This doesn't look like the bottom to me.WTF If you haven't found it yet, here is a pic.:D

It is on your throttle body right in front. There should be a black rubber cap over the top of it. There is a nice walk through of the entire engine bay in VFAQ.com.

You will still get a variety of answers. Not all boost guages are completely accurate. More so than the stock one, yes, but to say for sure you need better than most Autometer guages which is what most people have. Mine, stock, was 11PSI.:D

Keep looking. The 90's are hard to find ignition components for. 91-94 are interchangable. If you are willing to spend up to 3000, why are you looking at fixeruppers for 1500?:D

Tuning with the AFC, don't get any bigger than 650's.

The type of soldering iron won't matter but the solder will. Only use rosin core.

Yeah, I had heard Modern Garage had an AWD dyno but I didn't really trust the source. Has anyone had any experience with them.

I wouldn't know; I keep changing stuff!!LOL It does alright. Does anyone know of an AWD dyno here close? As soon as I can afford my wideband and some dyno time I want to get it in there to see where I stand.:confused:

I would not remove the stud. In fact, I use four studs on mine. The bolts tend to back out over time. I bet when you go to remove the bolts they will all be loose, hence the reason you blew out your gasket in the first place. Yes, it will make things easier for a swap but the studs are better...

There are LSD's in 90-92's as well. My 91 has an LSD with 3:55's. Are you looking to find a 4 bolt rear? The early cars only had the 3 bolt. What are you trying to do?

I'm jealus!!LOL I can't wait till I can afford a 2G as my DD.:D

This is my advise if you plan on spending that much at least.:thumb:I have been thinking about refinancing and getting Sheps stage 3!

At one point in time I had this kit installed on my car. I have since redone my entire setup and am still debating on whether or not to install it again.:rocks: