ShottH: I am bringing this back up for a quick question.When you have the cams locked in to position, do your white lines on the fidanza line up correctly?Neither of my marks are in the middle of the teeth. In other words, the marks aren't in the same place as factory gears.Have there...
You most likely bent some valves, the best bet would be to pull the head and have it inspected by a machine shop. With 150k you probably needed a valve job anyways.
You can also get a short stick from a paint roller or anything else wooden that will fit up the bore to the bottom of the piston. That way you can tap on it without any risk of damage.
Yeah you might have busted a ring land to have that much vertical marking.There is only one way to make things right, pull the pistons out and inspect them.Replace what is broken, and hone and rering the block... on the cheap.Or 100% would be overbore pistons, new rings, bore and...
Your axles should be fine, If you do enough suspension work and buy good rims and tires for the track that will never wheelhop you will be okay.I ran about 20 or 30 low 11 second passes and a few high 10 second passes on 100% stock axles, giving it hell on slicks.The fronts were even...
So you have a bore gauge, a ball end micrometer , a caliper, a set of feeler gauges, rod bolt stretch gauge, dial indicator and torque plate?I can promise you a real engine builder like JNZ has all that stuff.
Guys your not even reading his post. The guy was asking about budget rods, and you guys are telling him to use 700-800 dollar rods because that is what the fastest 4g63's use.To the point, any H beam rod will work fine. Eagle or Manley would be my choice.Buying I beams for 700 crank is...
I wouldn't think a motor would let go because of ring gap anyways. It would use a little more oil, but nothing that would cause the motor to fail.The main reason for a built motor to fail early is improper machine work. If you don't own a machine shop chances are you don't have the tools to...
The pistons look fine to me, you should be more worried about the bores than the top of the piston. Are there any vertical lines, or areas where the cross hatch is gone?
That manifold is really setup for a 1g. For the amount of stuff your hacking up for a small 20g turbo I would look at fixing it another way.Either block the wastegate there and mount something on the turbine housing that fits. Or sell that manifold and gate to a 1g guy, then buy a plain...
Think about the angle of the rods, top top dead center the rods are all straight up and down. Half way through the stroke all the rods are at an angle. This is why people talk about rod ratio and engine wear.A torque plate has nothing to do with this.If you don't trust your machinist...
You do know your going to need bigger springs for these cams. If 450 is steep, wait till you spend the 399 dollars on dual springs.If your on a budget I would say go with some used fp2 cams since you can drop them in on stock springs.
Your getting "Performance shops" mixed up with machine shops.Machine shops don't tune, they don't install mods, they don't wash cars, and they don't change oil.They work on engines only, outside of the car.Saying you wouldn't let a machine shop check the air in your tires sounds...
Buying from burns to build your first manifold is a waste of time and money. He would probably be out 500+ in materials alone.Buy some schedule 10 1.5 inch pipe fittings and a 1/2 inch head flange and turbo flange.You should only be out about 125 dollars.
You should give him major props for replacing another motor on his own dime.Bottom line is this, he is doing you a big favor by replacing something that was taken out by a freak accident.
My 2.0 crank had an 88 on the side somewhere, I am not sure the the stroker crank had a mark or not.Eagles droped right in on my motor, with no grinding anywhere.
If you have a 1g head I would run with it, if not keep your 2g head and use some of the money on a 2g SMIM. The factory intake seems a little small for a stroker, but the head is fine and has been proven to make good power on all different types of motors.
I would go with eagle and wiseco's with a factory crankshaft. If your going to do a lot of street driving use some oversized factory pistons on stock rods.
So what your saying is you want a 20g turbo? Really that turbo is small enough where the twin scroll isn't going to make or break you.20g's have gone much faster than low 12's too.A 20g will bolt on and work much better than anything you can come up with at a similar price.
The engine rocks front to back, unlike the trucks your talking about. The transfer case is changing angle on the entire drive shaft when the engine rocks under power.It is much easier making a drivshaft work in a normal inline configuration.CV joints in lifted trucks are always a big...
Less restriction in the intake pipe before the turbo.You can run a TIAL bov.I wanted to be able to log boost and charge air temp.Cleaner looking piping without a hotwire or factory mas.Allows for bigger air filters.
Speed density works well on a DSM.If your using an AEM small changes in VE can be handled with o2 feedback. If you want a highly modified car to drive like stock it is going to have to be well tuned, regardless if it is maf based or speed density.I would call bullshit on the carbon...
Personally I would rather see you with a 50 trim or 60 trim, the 57 trim is not a great compressor wheel.Make sure whatever turbo you get has a upgraded thrust bearing that bolts down. Forced performance uses these, so does AGP on their hand built units.
There needs to be a slight dent for the pipe, but it looks like they messed up and just shipped out a flawed part.I would get another manifold shipped out.
Uhh no factory exhuast is going to be bare mild steel. It has a layer of aluminuzed atleast.Rust is iron oxide, 304 or 321 stainless pipes do not rust in this manner.
On a mas system you know exactly how much air the engine is taking in, with speed density the amount of fuel injected is caluclated from air temp, pressure and the VE of your engine.I don't know anyone who owns an AEM running speed density without a wideband.
I could have sworn I read a TSB from dodge that actually went through the process of finishing the block surface smoother and spraying the headgasket for a better seal. When neons first came out they were hurting headgaskets left and right, and the asnwer was a smoother finish on the parts and...
It looks like it is made to work with the stock turbo flange.If you want a good divided t4 manifold that is cast buy the ongreen hks replica.It is fully divided and the t4 hotsides are more available.
The seals topline uses are probably not even made by topline, usually they are just metric seals. I would get it apart and find out exaclty what the cause is.
If you drop the pan and pull number one I bet part of the piston is gone, is the cumbustion chamber messed up on #1, and is there any damage to the turbo?
Since your on the west coast you can probably find a pretty decent used japanese engine for under 900. That would end up making your 600 dollar car a 1500 dollar car, still not that bad.We have been getting engines with turbos and intake manifolds recently. One of them even came with 510cc...